• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Any input or alternatives to this Superbird Conversion kit?

If you get too bored with that RR, I've got a great garage to park it in, and I'd be glad to blow the dust off it, when needed...
 
biomedtechguy said:
Just in case I ever get "bored" with my 70 V-code Roadrunner....
I don't know where else to post this question. No offense to real Daytona or Superbird owners intended.
Imitation is the highest form of compliment.
https://americansportscar.com/product/plymouth-superbird-body-kit-1970/
Click to expand...
I don’t have personal experience with that kit but I do have personal experience building a superbird clone. My advice would be if you have a huge bank account and/or mad fab skills, go for it. Otherwise, take a step back, focus on your current car, develop the plan and stick to it. I see so many projects abandoned by those with Champagne tastes on beer budgets or those that let their “creativity” drive their project in lieu of a realistic goal supported by a solid plan. Either way, good luck and have fun!
 
its cheap junk,you get what you pay for
I've looked at it first hand
the lowest quality parts I've seen
nose looks flimsy,parts are very crude
that is why they are cheap

if you are serious for a little more loot
Ted Janaks of Texas fiberglass stuff is much better
even his stuff needs a ton of work
after that
then you get into the big bucks with the metal repo parts.

my brother is doing a bird clone with a n code runner
his dream project
he has just picked up bargains he has come across over the years
he got a deal on a janaks nose,a fender and other parts that was
from abandoned project.
found a used janaks rear window plug cheap at a show
he traded a 83/4 rear housing and a couple of pumpkins for
a orig rear glass, orig rear inner welting and orig rear window outer chome mouldings
all he really needs is a wing and brackets and he is there.

with all of that and both fenders and hood and other parts thrown in
so far he is under 5 k into his venture.
but I think that would be hard to duplicate now.
 
So firstly I wouldnt do a real r.r. with that kit! As stated you get what you pay for ! Stinger has decent stuff don't get me wrong and I've never had any issues with his product! But you can tell cheap and expensive , if you just want a super bird looking car 5-10 footer daily driver kinda thing this kit is what you want but don't do a r.r. like that! The guy in tex is very nice stuff but man it's very pricey, if I was wanting something that may fool people and win at shows his kit is what you want ! Then I would probably use a r.r. as my base !

But why hide a r.r. to begin with? There cool cars in there own right !
 
They have it listed as a complete kit but the fenders are extra.Just as easy to list as complete,include fenders and price accordingly !:realcrazy:
 
Thanks guys.
Being as my RR is a real V-code, although the motor is not #s matching and I am NOT hanging on to parts that I am replacing, like my bench seats, steel Rallye wheels, drum front brakes, etc etc.
Anything like that, my non-N96 hood, etc that I am replacing and takes up space is getting TOSSED or SOLD. I don't ever plan on selling it, hope I never HAVE to sell it, have NO interest in EVER returning it to stock.
My desires for my car are a Boulevard Bruiser, Cruiser, and occasional 1/4 mile Test and Tune/ Grudge/Bracket racer.
Given the HUGE costs of doing a Superbird, and what I think a Superbird should do well (high top speed but rock solid at speed, and GREAT cornering) that is really not conducive with the direction I am going in, so no 'bird for me.
If I ever have more money than I expect to, I may look at doing a Satellite to Superbird conversion, or if I have WAY more money than I ever expect to, I'll look for the real thing.
Thanks again!
 
Recent pix
20181006_123723.jpg
20181004_190111.jpg

This last pic was to show someone how the black stripe was reflective, and I used my flash.
20181006_111131.jpg
 
I'd leave it, looks better than it ever would with a cone on the front. With the exception of builds like Hemirunners I really dislike the the winged cars, they need to be at Nascar ride height to look right to me.

Only thing I'd think about if it were my car was dropping the nose just a touch to get a little rake but that's just me. It's a beauty!
 
747mopar said:
dropping the nose just a touch to get a little rake
Click to expand...
I had just a couple of days to order the front tires for the new wheels I had got. My previous 15" Rallye wheels had tires that rubbed the frame, and I had just missed disaster on my wife's GTO with her front tires..if hers would have been 1/8" taller sidewall, they would have rubbed the wheel opening trim. So I "played it safe" and got some with kinda short (45) sidewalls. The rear tires are 315/35/17s so I didn't want to go too tall up front. I prefer more rake too, but I just had a pair of Viking double adjustable front shocks installed and asked for the front end to be lifted a bit.
Nothing that can't be fixed with time, but I don't have much of that right now.
Thanks.
I'm going to try a taller rear tire on my 9" aluminum Rallye wheels, maybe a 345/40/17 will fit in a drag radial.
My next pair of front tires will have a taller profile on their 8" wide wheels.
 
That's such a nice car I'd leave it and build a clone . There is a complete front Superbird set up for sale on Dodge Charger.com
Real fenders , hood , nose I think 20 k .
 
Pete Bell68 said:
That's such a nice car I'd leave it and build a clone . There is a complete front Superbird set up for sale on Dodge Charger.com
Real fenders , hood , nose I think 20 k .
Click to expand...
Thanks Pete
Yes, I've already decided that, mainly due to feedback on this thread and the direction I am taking with my car being one of Boulevard Bruiser and occasional track day car. Also the cost to do a conversion is astronomical!
I have wanted to build a motor for my car in the 6XX HP and torque range, and I'm hoping to get enough money to do that in 2019, so I'm not in a position to do a conversion anyway, and if I ever am I hope to find a good, solid base Satellite or base model Roadrunner to do that with.
 
biomedtechguy said:
Thanks Pete
Yes, I've already decided that, mainly due to feedback on this thread and the direction I am taking with my car being one of Boulevard Bruiser and occasional track day car. Also the cost to do a conversion is astronomical!
I have wanted to build a motor for my car in the 6XX HP and torque range, and I'm hoping to get enough money to do that in 2019, so I'm not in a position to do a conversion anyway, and if I ever am I hope to find a good, solid base Satellite or base model Roadrunner to do that with.
Click to expand...
I’m starting on a pump gas, trick flow headed, 511 build shortly. Hoping for 700-725hp. Should be fun.
 
biomedtechguy said:
SWEET! Which TF heads?
What block and if stock factory, what are you doing to keep it all together?
This cap and girdle set were highly spoken of by my local builder.
I'm sold on the unique aspects of it's strength and design as well:
http://www.bcrproducts.com/caps_and_girdle_system.html
Click to expand...

TF 240 heads, stock block with a girdle. Might do caps as well. Not sure yet. The easiest way to keep it together is quality parts, quality workmanship and a good tune up! We’ve done 800hp on stock block/ stock cap combos before. I try to keep the stroke to a minimum on those to reduce crank flex. Center counterweights are a plus.
 
Hemirunner said:
TF 240 heads, stock block with a girdle. Might do caps as well. Not sure yet. The easiest way to keep it together is quality parts, quality workmanship and a good tune up! We’ve done 800hp on stock block/ stock cap combos before. I try to keep the stroke to a minimum on those to reduce crank flex. Center counterweights are a plus.
Click to expand...
Another reason why I'm sitting on the fence now about stroker vs just a built 440...
My 71 440 motor has the steel crank with heavy rods. I'm guessing that the crank (it would be checked for cracks during the build, of course) would be fine, right?
I mean if I couldn't use my current forged steel crank, well I would go with a stroker setup for sure if I had to buy a new crank.
I would also believe that modern technology in connecting rods would mandate an upgrade there, right?
Did you check out the link to the cap and girdle set I'm sold on? It really is different and in my and my local engine builder's experience a better concept for strength from a materials and engineering design standpoint.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
1974 and 1973 Road Runner/Satellite Engine Conversions, Rearends, Leaf Springs, and Other Info
Replies
5
Views
1K
Bluesky10
B
steve817
GAUGE CLUSTER RESTORATION Aug2022
Replies
3
Views
5K
steve817
steve817
steve817
  • Locked
FOR SALE Restoration Service Rallye 68-70 Gauge Cluster
Replies
9
Views
4K
69 500
6
moes
8 3/4” Axle Guide
Replies
8
Views
23K
skicker
skicker
steve817
  • Locked
FOR SALE Gauge Cluster Restoration Service
Replies
2
Views
3K
steve817
steve817
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top