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Need Dual Point Assistance

Not for Chrysler.
Appreciate that! Didn't know since all my distributor foolings was with Mallorys. Didn't do anything on my Prestolite, but tune it, and run the heck out of it. Even bothered (back then) to check dwell. Fell into place each time, so...set gap...and go.

The points gap on my single point was less than .008. So if dwell is closing time (charging time), and the cam is within spec, I don't understand how such a small gap is giving a good dwell (30*).
THAT is a very good question!

Know you've tried two different meters. Doesn't make sense.
 
The points gap on my single point was less than .008. So if dwell is closing time (charging time), and the cam is within spec, I don't understand how such a small gap is giving a good dwell (30*).

Set them at .018 and see how the engine acts. See what your dwell is at that measurement. Most engines run bad when the points get that close.
 
When you reduce the gap the points wind up closing sooner on the down ram of the cam and that means more time closed which is greater dwell. Running gap larger means the points are still open further down the slope and so dwell is less.
 
On both dwell meters you used, were they switched to 8 cylinder?
Sorry, had to ask. Can happen to the best of us.

Sounds like point gap is half what it should be.
 
I'll probably get beat up for this but if the OP doesn't get it after 146 posts,I doubt he will.The distributor is not a complicated device,correct point gap,correct condenser,working vacuum advance and correct grounds and it will run. I've been doing these for 30+ years with minimal issues and those have had issues were easily solved.My advice to the OP,send it to someone ,get it taken care of and relax !

Also from one of the OP's earlier post (( Then the longer you wait, the engine just gets rougher and rougher till it ultimately dies (talking 5 minutes or so)) I would seriously doubt that is a distributor issue,it would work or it wouldn't unless points are not tight and eventually closing.That is easy to check,if it stops after 5 min,re check gap again.
 
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I'll probably get beat up for this but if the OP doesn't get it after 146 posts,I doubt he will.The distributor is not a complicated device,correct point gap,correct condenser,working vacuum advance and correct grounds and it will run. I've been doing these for 30+ years with minimal issues and those have had issues were easily solved.My advice to the OP,send it to someone ,get it taken care of and relax !

Also from one of the OP's earlier post (( Then the longer you wait, the engine just gets rougher and rougher till it ultimately dies (talking 5 minutes or so)) I would seriously doubt that is a distributor issue,it would work or it wouldn't unless points are not tight and eventually closing.That is easy to check,if it stops after 5 min,re check gap again.

Agreed but look at all the extra information it brings out.

Thinking about what's causing the difference in the op's measurement of the points gap and what the dwell is reading, I'm wondering if the measurement is being taken when the point's rubbing block is on the flat or on the point of the cam :rolleyes:
 
Still, a very thought provoking thread tho.
 
This probably has been posted. Wonder if the shaft inside where cam stop is bent? Think setting points with a flat 1/2" feeler gauge isn't the thing to use. MO. 1/4" wide better, a wire is what I'd prefer. Again MO.
 
Oldies, but goodies. Point distributors.
F no I'm no expert. What the hell's that? But, it's not rocket science, neither.

Single, or dual, basics on 'em are pretty straight up...they work this way. Should be easy answers...that's what's irritating. Soapbox just broke!
 
On both dwell meters you used, were they switched to 8 cylinder?
Sorry, had to ask. Can happen to the best of us.

Sounds like point gap is half what it should be.

Yep, I confirmed that. Good point if it wasn't though!

I'll probably get beat up for this but if the OP doesn't get it after 146 posts,I doubt he will.The distributor is not a complicated device,correct point gap,correct condenser,working vacuum advance and correct grounds and it will run. I've been doing these for 30+ years with minimal issues and those have had issues were easily solved.My advice to the OP,send it to someone ,get it taken care of and relax !

Also from one of the OP's earlier post (( Then the longer you wait, the engine just gets rougher and rougher till it ultimately dies (talking 5 minutes or so)) I would seriously doubt that is a distributor issue,it would work or it wouldn't unless points are not tight and eventually closing.That is easy to check,if it stops after 5 min,re check gap again.

Thank you for your input, but I am quite "relaxed" here. I am simply trying to learn how everything is working here for my future knowledge, and everyone has been extremely helpful. As you've seen in the other 146 posts, I have tried everything and am still having issues. Some may view this as a problem, but I (and most here) view it as process of elimination to a problem that doesn't appear to hit the common occurrences.

I will most likely be sending the distributor out to someone, but that doesn't stop me from wanting to learn as much about it as I possibly can.

Agreed but look at all the extra information it brings out.

Thinking about what's causing the difference in the op's measurement of the points gap and what the dwell is reading, I'm wondering if the measurement is being taken when the point's rubbing block is on the flat or on the point of the cam :rolleyes:

Gap is being measured when the points are open (high point of the cam).

This probably has been posted. Wonder if the shaft inside where cam stop is bent? Think setting points with a flat 1/2" feeler gauge isn't the thing to use. MO. 1/4" wide better, a wire is what I'd prefer. Again MO.

Sorry, which area are you referring too?

Oldies, but goodies. Point distributors.
F no I'm no expert. What the hell's that? But, it's not rocket science, neither.

Single, or dual, basics on 'em are pretty straight up...they work this way. Should be easy answers...that's what's irritating. Soapbox just broke!

I agree! But I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of this.
 
When you remove the cam stop, that part of dist drive shaft, it's only about 5/16". A little bump and it could bend causing points to open more or less depending on which peak you set points. Think an earlier post asked to check settings on each peak.
 
When you remove the cam stop, that part of dist drive shaft, it's only about 5/16". A little bump and it could bend causing points to open more or less depending on which peak you set points. Think an earlier post asked to check settings on each peak.

Copy.
I can check the flat to flat and point to point openings all around the cam stop.
 
Way out of the box- hole size too big in plate where points pivot sits?
 
Way out of the box-hole size too big in plate where points pivot sits?

hole size too big in plate where points pivot sits


A little more specific !!
 
Soo, the wrong end of points starts to move around changing point gap? Never heard of it myself.
 
Soo, the wrong end of points starts to move around changing point gap? Never heard of it myself.

Point pivot is swedged to the plate,points can't move unless adjusting screw is loose.

PB210480.JPG
 
I will most likely be sending the distributor out to someone, but that doesn't stop me from wanting to learn as much about it as I possibly can.
Nothing wrong with that! Won't hurt to get a second set of eyes on it, either.
When I was younger, just wanting to make it work, wasn't good enough, wanted the whys, too. We all learn through the years, things we 'thought' we knew. Just like me, and dwell (had it backwards!:()...what I get for using common sense, and not reading the damn directions!

Hat's off, for not throwing your hands up.
 
OH I just notices something where the plate ground wire is. is there any chance the points are hitting the screw head? Th screw should be low pan had srews. I have some if needed, that could explain the dwell and RPM issues, especially if the spring tension is weak.
 
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