Obvious to everyone...but me

64plybelvwgn · Nov 18, 2018

Good day...I'm sure someone can lead me in the right direction.

What is the most common, and most reliable point from which to get the 12V Sw signal.?

At the moment I am taking it from the switched side of a fuse in the old fuse block ( 65 Belvedere ). I'm thinking there's a better, more convenient place to get the +12 Sw signal...and after a mild stroke...crawling around under the dash is getting a bit much.

I keep seeing the recommendation of using the blue wire on the ballast , but the side and the pros and cons keep battling. Any other under hood point(s) that are more easily reached ?

In advance, thanks very much for your response.
Ted

493 Mike · Nov 18, 2018

Ted,
If you're concerned about drawing too much current form the blue ignition wiring I suggest adding a relay and using the blue wire for trigger coil in the relay and pulling power from the starter relay stud.
Mike

451Mopar · Nov 18, 2018

What are you hooking up? The wire at the ballast is 12v switches, but I think has no fuse. It might have more noise on it too from the ignition system.
As noted above, you could use it to trigger a relay and pull power from closer to the battery (less noise), through a fuse for protection.
Really just depends on what you are hooking up, the load (current it pulls) and how clean (Less noise/interference) the power needs to be?
If you need switched power in both RUN and START positions, for something like EFI, You can add a diode across the ballast resistor run and start wires.

64plybelvwgn · Nov 19, 2018

493 Mike said:
Ted,
If you're concerned about drawing too much current form the blue ignition wiring I suggest adding a relay and using the blue wire for trigger coil in the relay and pulling power from the starter relay stud.
Mike

Thanks, Mike. I'll put a relay in as you suggest. Excellent and thanks again.

64plybelvwgn · Nov 19, 2018

451Mopar said:
What are you hooking up? The wire at the ballast is 12v switches, but I think has no fuse. It might have more noise on it too from the ignition system.
As noted above, you could use it to trigger a relay and pull power from closer to the battery (less noise), through a fuse for protection.
Really just depends on what you are hooking up, the load (current it pulls) and how clean (Less noise/interference) the power needs to be?
If you need switched power in both RUN and START positions, for something like EFI, You can add a diode across the ballast resistor run and start wires.

The intention was just to use for gauges. With the combination of the relay and a fuse. I should be go to go. Thanks very much.

Nacho-RT74 · Nov 20, 2018

For gauges a Relay is not needed. I guess the relay suggestion was made thinking on an EFI conversion or something similar into the engine bay, which is being latelly a fashion upgrade.

For switched source inside the cab can be used the accesories circuit or RUN ( ign1 ) circuit. I can't say certainly if there is a provision ready for it down the dash on a 65. On laters, is really normal get some provissions around ready to be used.

Lot of 60s fuse box got terminals with a male prong to get there a new source plugged there and prottected by the fuse where is being sourced.

Nacho-RT74 · Nov 20, 2018

but MAYBE you can find hanging around a provision like this ( but not orange, orange is dimmer ilumination... should be tan wire maybe ) to get some stuff sourced:

451Mopar · Nov 20, 2018

Guessing electric gauges, not mechanical? Then you could do like Nacho-RT74 posted and get the switched and fused connection from the fuse block. Not sure if that year has accessory, but I think the Radio fuse circuit should work?

Obvious to everyone...but me

64plybelvwgn

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493 Mike

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451Mopar

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64plybelvwgn

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64plybelvwgn

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Nacho-RT74

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451Mopar

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