78' 440 Choosing Pistons 87 Octain Gasoline Spark Knock Flat Top Notched?

Based on what I think I'm hearing from the OP, that is what I would do with that kind of budget. Bearings, rings and 75 cc Eddy heads, or similar. Way better hp/$ than screwing around with pistons.

For 2k it isn't a debate for pistons or heads, neither are on the table at that budget level.

Hone it yourself, re-ring it, new bearings, gaskets, and valve stem seals to start with.

Next is bolt-ons: Headers, cam & lifter kit, car oil pan & pickup, used aluminum intake, carb, and air-cleaner. Just the basics will eat up that 2k budget quick!

TetanusShot said:

For 2k it isn't a debate for pistons or heads, neither are on the table at that budget level.

Hone it yourself, re-ring it, new bearings, gaskets, and valve stem seals to start with.

Next is bolt-ons: Headers, cam & lifter kit, car oil pan & pickup, used aluminum intake, carb, and air-cleaner. Just the basics will eat up that 2k budget quick!

Click to expand...

Pretty good advice. If Auggie56 has the time to read through this thread he may find some useful information.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

Maybe even this will help. As above, if you don't have the budget the low compression doesn't have to kill power.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/the-slug-400-on-the-dyno.80843/#post-910150902

2k?
I’d re-ring the bottom end, and a cheap cam kit/timing set/gaskets.

If the heads are in decent shape, have them cleaned real good, recon the valves, grind the seats, flat mill .030, reassemble with new springs and seals.

If you’re feeling adventurous, read up on bowl porting and give that a whirl.
It doesn’t get any easier than on later BB Mopar heads.

Use whatever $$ is left for the bolt-ons.

IQ52 said:

Pretty good advice. If Auggie56 has the time to read through this thread he may find some useful information.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-testing-a-stock-1972-440.249866/

Maybe even this will help. As above, if you don't have the budget the low compression doesn't have to kill power.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/the-slug-400-on-the-dyno.80843/#post-910150902

Click to expand...

"Essentially, you can take a stone stock short block, cam it throw some good heads and intake on and have some real power. For a lot less than the 10K stupidity. I think that's Jim's point and it's a goodun."

I'll let the quote above sum it up for me. And with that thank you for brightening my day with your post on your projects.

low compression
short duration high lift cam with as much area under the lift curve as possible
get the intake closed early to trap dynamic compression
open the exhaust late to get as much power out as possible
intake valve open as much as possible from max piston acceleration (around 70 ATDC) as long as possible
bigger duration cam then the more converter and gear required and soon the heads cannot keep up with the cam so no more top end and you've lost the bottom end
try and afford the kb pop up quench pistons but if not stay conservative
not to say not to run a big cam- we did it in class racing but motor never saw below torque peak

BS said it's absurd to use quench dome pistons with closed chamber heads available
Unless new heads are not in the budget
so closed chamber heads and D dish/ reverse dome with correct CC to get the CR correct
With stock open chamber heads then the quench dome heads come with a lower deck on the spark plug side to get the cr right
Take a look in the on line KB catalog, select your motor then click on the picture of the piston for the spec
I helped design this piston so write back with any questions lots of dyno time developing and we built several hundred reman engines under warranty from Chrysler- best solution for an open chamber head
as said not best solution with a new head
that said
save those motor home valves
they are worth their weight in gold and premium valves
price some and see
Use them if you are running stock size valves even in new heads (hyd cam motors)
If you are going to just re-ring stock pistons then short cam is critical unless you are running a stock
race class
cheers

wyrmrider
"heads flow the same as other late BBM heads
That note is in there
is your block square
check heads for same depth each end
if so not a big deal
thicker or thinner head gaskets to get quench where you want it but you need to put pistons in at least all four corners and check
worse case there are shimmed or mill some off the pistons
the exhaust valves have Inconel heads
intakes have SILXB much better than standard "stainless"
you can use a regular valve in the end of a head it's the centers that get hot
and use the high temp viton seals
I knurl even new guides (except the spiral id like the K-Line thin inserts) then ream and hone for some oil retention
I od hone the valves for same reason (and to catch any bent, hourglass, etc) cheap stainless valves can act like files on your valve guides grind is so bad
the motor home valves are industrial thick triple hard chrome copper-nickel- chrome not some cheap flash chrome which is relay just to keep them from rusting in the box- chrome does not stick directly to steel...like a cheap re-cromed bumper or cheap chrome plated wrench- ever have that flash chrome come off and cut you?"

wyrmrider said:

low compression
short duration high lift cam with as much area under the lift curve as possible
get the intake closed early to trap dynamic compression
open the exhaust late to get as much power out as possible
intake valve open as much as possible from max piston acceleration (around 70 ATDC) as long as possible
bigger duration cam then the more converter and gear required and soon the heads cannot keep up with the cam so no more top end and you've lost the bottom end
try and afford the kb pop up quench pistons but if not stay conservative
not to say not to run a big cam- we did it in class racing but motor never saw below torque peak

Click to expand...

Can you give me your best guess what degree of cam I would be looking for? Thanks