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What's your guy's experience replacing the 4 body bushings?

jogirob

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I bought this kit after seeing the review of a fellow 74 charger guy state that it was an easy install. After going through the FSM it appears you need to remove or disconnect just about everything up front + the kitchen sink to get this procedure done. I've read horror stories of the rusty anchor bolt snapping welds and having to take a cutting wheel to the frame to get the thing out.

All in all, do you guys wish you'd just paid someone else to deal with it?

Also, I only have one busted bushing, driver side rear most. If I had an OEM type rubber bushing I'd just replace that one. Since I have stiffer polys can I get away with just replacing the 2 rearmost bushings? That'd leave me with 2 rubbers up front and 2 polys in back. Those seem pretty easy to get too.
 
I just installed new k-frame bushings in my 77 Cordoba. The engine was out so it was the best time to do it. I tried the Aluminum Sub frame Isolators from Firm Feel. Pricey but I was sold. Left the k-frame in place and replaced one at a time. Took us a couple hours at most. I had someone else do the hard work and I helped. I won't know how they worked until spring.
 
Did it on my 79 awhile back.If you do a search it should come up with photos. I loosened the Torsion bars tension.Loosened all 4 bolts but only removed one at a time.The front you may have to use a sawsall to cut the inner sleave.I did on mine.Used a pry bar to pull down on the K to slide the new pucks in.Used the same Summit kit you posted.
 
I also replaced the 79's torsion bar rear-most mounting bushings too. They were real easy,about a 15 min job.Don't know if the 74 had them or not. Lube them(all) with waterproof marine grease. or they may squeek.Improved the handling about 200%.
 
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those bushings look hard and it s probably going to make drive not sos month
super pro bushings for brattish cars are better than rubber and not hard like those.
there from Australia , great stuff , not sure they do molars yet but they should
 
those bushings look hard and it s probably going to make drive not sos month
super pro bushings for brattish cars are better than rubber and not hard like those.
there from Australia , great stuff , not sure they do molars yet but they should
Thanks for the suggestion. Yea for some reason it's difficult to find a good OEM style rubber bushing!
 
I've done a few cars already, some frame rails have holes that enable you to shoot some penetrating oil in above the bolts. some don't but I would suggest drilling them so the bolts can soak and will break loose easier. it's not that difficult at all . like stated above , take all the tension off the torsion bars .
 
The factory style bushings are now available in the correct rubber and metal configuration.
 
I put the Firm feel aluminium ones in my 76 F-body Road runner. Big difference - I did the same as slepr1 and did them one at a time.
It really tighten's up the front end.
 
This question is so dumb it doesn't even warrant starting a new thread so I'll just ask here, what does "full rebound" mean? Totally free hanging? Why wouldn't the FSM just say "let it hang".
 
Totally free hanging? Why wouldn't the FSM just say "let it hang".

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Loosening the torsion bar tension. Is that at the bolt where you adjust the ride height? Or literally unscrewing the front torsion bar nuts?

*Update: After looking how the torsion bar assembly works I'm pretty sure you guys meant to loosen the actual torsion bar by backing off the nut.*
 
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I am guessing in CA you aren't going to have heavy rust issues but I would drill a hole in the rail opposite of the bolt locations and soak with your favorite rust cutter every day or so for a week before you break them free. Cheap insurance.
 
Did it on my 79 awhile back.If you do a search it should come up with photos. I loosened the Torsion bars tension.Loosened all 4 bolts but only removed one at a time.The front you may have to use a sawsall to cut the inner sleave.I did on mine.Used a pry bar to pull down on the K to slide the new pucks in.Used the same Summit kit you posted.

Boy that metal inner sleeve kicked my *** today. I took an angle grinder to the inner sleeve segment that dropped below once I removed the lower bushing. I was able to trim off just enough to give me clearance when prying the K down with a huge crowbar. It definitely won't work for the recessed fronts since there's no way I can get a cutting disk to it. Gonna get a sawsall and some metal cutting blades tomorrow. If not for those damn sleeves this would've been an incredibly easy job. And yes finding any way you can to saturate the threads with a good liquid penetrant a few days before the task is money in the bank.
 
don't give up now, i had the same problem back in 89 with my 76 nova
and got them done , but what a job
 
I got the sawsall (reciprocating saw) and the best blade made to cut through thick metal. By the time I got to the last bushing set I just hacked through the inner sleeve and the rubber+metal section that drops down and was able to just pull out the top puck without having to pry at anything. Getting the new top bushing in was another story though. Anyways I recommend the reciprocating saw. Way more safer than taking a squirmy 10,500 RPM cutting disk and so much quicker.

Now with the money I saved I can buy more tools for my next car project. Car stops straight, I don't have to smash the door closed...as hard, and it seems less floaty when cornering.
 
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