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Complete new front suspension DELIVERED. QA1 everything w/SPC UCAs Advice? Tips?

biomedtechguy

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I have a complete new front suspension coming. QA1 everything except for the UCAs which are from SPC.
The whole order is:
QA1 tubular K-member, LCAs, dynamic strut rods, sway bar, tie rod sleeves. SPC UCAs.
I am going to keep using my existing torsion bars.
My goal is NOT better handling although that may improve. My goal is better alignment, more adjustability, new components for peace of mind, lighter weight, and improved weight transfer for traction at the starting line and 60ft.
I also recently installed 18 way double adjustable Viking front shocks.
Anything I missed or should know or do while I'm at it? The upper and lower ball joints are "new" Moog although I don't know if any of them are replaced by anything I just bought. (I think the UCAs come with ball joints)
 
I would seriously think about the Borgeson box while you're at it. And I would do the QA1 UCAs with all the rest. They add additional camber/castor built into the arms and still use the OE hardware & eccentrics, or use their kit. SPC is okay, I just don't think Mopars need all those extra adjustments that the upper arms have.
Yes, the QA1 Upper Control Arms have ball joints installed, the lowers are on the spindle, so they're not included with the Lower Control Arms. Not sure if the SPC has them, but they probably do.
 
Thanks 65RoadRacer
I actually want the new hardware and adjustability of the SPC UCAs. The order is placed, parts are on the way.
I'm looking to get the most out of what's coming.
Thanks.
 
I would be interested in how it turns out for you. I’m needing to do the same in the next year.
 
I still think you should do the Borgeson conversion... gets rid of the sloppy 1-finger steering and gives you a firm steering. I loved it when I had it on my car, never gave me any issues at all and the lane-wandering was gone. Also, it cuts another 12 or so pounds off the front end. ...that is, if you have Power Steering. Manual, you're stuck with the heavy OE unit.


If you do, you'll need either their Universal joint and have to modify the column shaft, or get the Bergman Auto Craft conversion Joint. You can also get a new pump from Borgeson if you need it.
 
Hey bio I don’t know if you tried it or not but usually if you call in an order (especially one the size you placed $$) and ask about sales they’ll throw you a 10% off or something like that, Try it next time
 
I just modified the stock stuff,lightened up some from the DVW school not to mention Jenny Craig.I don't turn fast so......Low 9's through the mufflers.Next year will bring me some new bests!

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I still think you should do the Borgeson conversion... gets rid of the sloppy 1-finger steering and gives you a firm steering. I loved it when I had it on my car, never gave me any issues at all and the lane-wandering was gone. Also, it cuts another 12 or so pounds off the front end. ...that is, if you have Power Steering. Manual, you're stuck with the heavy OE unit.


If you do, you'll need either their Universal joint and have to modify the column shaft, or get the Bergman Auto Craft conversion Joint. You can also get a new pump from Borgeson if you need it.
I have MANUAL steering. I wouldn't think going to power steering would improve anything other than ease of parallel parking.
Am I missing something?
 
Hey bio I don’t know if you tried it or not but usually if you call in an order (especially one the size you placed $$) and ask about sales they’ll throw you a 10% off or something like that, Try it next time
I did call in the order, I had to to get the price match for the UCAs. I saved $50 with the 2 UCAs total, and all of the other items were sale priced, with only Mancini being the same or a couple of dollars higher than Summit.
When I call Mancini Friday and ask if the 10% off sales code applys to Trick Flow 240s, I can see if they offer a discount below "sale price" on QA1. I doubt it since the QA1 parts are all sale priced on both websites.
When I spoke with Summit, no additional discount beyond the price match was discussed. "Free shipping" is probably worth about $120 or more, and that is included by Summit.
 
I'm interested in how the SPC UCA's are. I need to get some as I have positive camber I can't get rid of (long story). The local suspension guy didn't rate them, said they were made in China. He suggested Hotchkis as a better quality option. The SPC arms seem to have a lot of adjustments, I'd prefer to keep it as simple as possible, with as little to go wrong/come loose as possible. I used a PST super front end kit with poly bushes and like you kept the stick torsion bars. Car handles.so much better than before, I think you'll be amazed at the improvement once everything is installed and properly set up.
 
QA1 lowers do not have the Bump stops!! I drilled and installed new bump stops to the frame. PIA, but worth it!! I went with Hotchkis for everything else and a Borgenson box and a ultra light Jeep Pump..

Front Suspesion.jpg
 
QA1 lowers do not have the Bump stops!! I drilled and installed new bump stops to the frame. PIA, but worth it!!
@Derwud
I would have the suspension shop install the bump stops.
It seems like bump stops are there for a "worse case scenario" as a way of preventing metal to metal contact should excessive suspension compression occur? Which ones should I buy for my 70 440+6 Roadrunner?
Thanks!
EDIT: From what I have read, QA1 has been adding bump stops to the LCAs starting in 2017, and the design of the QA1 LCAs also provide a lot more clearance before the possibility of contact. I'll let y'all know if these come with bump stops.
 
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@Derwud
I would have the suspension shop install the bump stops.
It seems like bump stops are there for a "worse case scenario" as a way of preventing metal to metal contact should excessive suspension compression occur? Which ones should I buy for my 70 440+6 Roadrunner?
Thanks!
Hotchkis supplied some shorter stiffer bump stops.. Factory ones should be okay as well..
 
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Don’t allow Brand stickers to be a guide when installing parts. That Zerk fitting was gone on day one. Man, it’s ugly down there. Glad it works better than it looks.
 
I'm very encouraged by what I've read in this thread and a similar one in Racers Hangout, especially from those who actually HAVE these parts on their car.
With the difference I saved going this route vs the coilover rack and pinion options, which I GREATLY respect, I can pay for a RMS or Gerst triangulated rear suspension which I definitely want.
 
QA1 lowers do not have the Bump stops!!

I installed new Upper and Lower QA-1 control arms on my '67 just this summer and my Lowers definitely came with bump stops already installed.

One very important note about the QA-1 LCA's: There is not as much torsion bar adjustment as there is with the factory LCA's. So if you want to raise the front of your car (which most folks want lower these days... not me btw), you won't have nearly as much adjustment. The adjuster will hit a welded cross brace on the QA-1's with the bolt a little over halfway in. With the factory control arms, you could run the bolt all the way in (probably not a good idea to go that far anyway).

So for those of us who like the old school look, you may not get it with the QA-1's... Thought you all would like to know this.

Also, the fitment on both the upper and lowers was absolutely perfect. Did not have to modify a thing. Make sure to use some good anti-seize on everything, even if you don't think your car will ever get wet.
 
The best way to install the tb’s into the QA1 lca’s is to set the lca’s where you want the ride height to be. Then install the tb’s. This really helps with 1.00 and bigger tb’s.
 
The best way to install the tb’s into the QA1 lca’s is to set the lca’s where you want the ride height to be. Then install the tb’s. This really helps with 1.00 and bigger tb’s.

I'm not sure I understand. How can you know the ride height without adjusting with all of it installed and together? Please explain this, you kinda lost me.

Thanks!
 
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