Any pro tips to replacing door hinge pins on this 74?

jogirob · Dec 1, 2018

I'm getting door sag.
I took a look at the door hinge situation and it looks like both ends of top and bottom pins are peened and the top hinge is facing the other direction so the pin is completely blocked from getting a saw on it. Is removing the door and sawing the pins in half the only way of replacing these? Will I have to remove the fender? How does one shim the hinge?

Wietse · Dec 2, 2018

I just finished this job, i bought a hinge pin kit, 4 pins and 8 brass bushings.
Actually the bottom pin does not have any brass bushings, only top one.
Best is to remove the door, knock the pins out and replace the bushings and install new pins.
You need a helper to hold the door for removing and specially installing it.
Unbolt the 5 bolts on the door and its out.

A very important note is to do not move/close the door after it is installed back as you can damage the paint on door and front fender.
Move it slow and check if/where it will hit and adjust the door accordingly.
It will be a bit time consuming but in the end you will get it in the right position.

I bought my hinge pin kit @ Rosevillemoparts.

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/pro...hinge-pin-kit-one-side-66-74/products_id/8613

PurpleBeeper · Dec 2, 2018

Also, when I've repaired hinges (if no new/aftermarket were available)….. if the holes are oblonged out, then weld them up & re-drill the holes using a drill press to get them straight.

Wietse · Dec 2, 2018

I found the holes still ok, all wear was on the pin.
From what i know now is next time i would buy complete hinges, since they are available

conv67bdere · Dec 2, 2018

Don't know about "Pro Tips" on repairing door hinges . . . but here's what I'm doing to my 67 Belvedere . . .

The problem ( that I see with the hinges ) is that you only have 1/8" of contact points at the top and bottom of the hinges,
That is the reason that they tend to oblong out . . .

So - my thought was that it needs "more" contact surface across the pin, so that the narrow 1/8 contact pint will not wear out . . .

So I'm adding a little additional support into the hinge like this . . .

Now the hinge has the full length of the "bushing" to add to the contact surface and reduce the wear . . .

The original hinges were built with no intention of them lasting FOREVER . . .
So I'm "fixing" that oversight so they should last a really long time . . .

YY1 · Dec 2, 2018

Before we had replacement pins/bushings we simply drilled out the holes to the next larger size and used a long shouldered bolt.

Less than a $1 fix.

Wietse · Dec 2, 2018

conv67bdere said:
Don't know about "Pro Tips" on repairing door hinges . . . but here's what I'm doing to my 67 Belvedere . . .

The problem ( that I see with the hinges ) is that you only have 1/8" of contact points at the top and bottom of the hinges,
That is the reason that they tend to oblong out . . .

View attachment 685915

So - my thought was that it needs "more" contact surface across the pin, so that the narrow 1/8 contact pint will not wear out . . .

So I'm adding a little additional support into the hinge like this . . .

View attachment 685916

Now the hinge has the full length of the "bushing" to add to the contact surface and reduce the wear . . .

The original hinges were built with no intention of them lasting FOREVER . . .
So I'm "fixing" that oversight so they should last a really long time . . .

Thats looks strong enough to survive a bomb!! :thumbsup:

PurpleBeeper · Dec 2, 2018

conv67bdere said:
Don't know about "Pro Tips" on repairing door hinges . . . but here's what I'm doing to my 67 Belvedere . . .

The problem ( that I see with the hinges ) is that you only have 1/8" of contact points at the top and bottom of the hinges,
That is the reason that they tend to oblong out . . .

View attachment 685915

So - my thought was that it needs "more" contact surface across the pin, so that the narrow 1/8 contact pint will not wear out . . .

So I'm adding a little additional support into the hinge like this . . .

View attachment 685916

Now the hinge has the full length of the "bushing" to add to the contact surface and reduce the wear . . .

The original hinges were built with no intention of them lasting FOREVER . . .
So I'm "fixing" that oversight so they should last a really long time . . .

Dude! I never thought of that and it makes complete sense.....just as long as the pin has a few thousandths of an inch clearance inside the tube & is lubricated and/or sealed off from the air (preventing rust). THAT IS FREAKING BRILLIANT!

conv67bdere · Dec 2, 2018

Wietse said:
Thats looks strong enough to survive a bomb!!

That was my intent on the fabrication - My building model is defined as BSH . . .
and I use that as my stamp on my projects . . .

BSH = Brick Sh*t House . . . ( meaning - built to last ) . . . very old term from my past . . .

PurpleBeeper · Dec 2, 2018

conv67bdere said:
That was my intent on the fabrication - My building model is defined as BSH . . .
and I use that as my stamp on my projects . . .

BSH = Brick Sh*t House . . . ( meaning - built to last ) . . . very old term from my past . . .

I've dated a few women built like that

Wietse · Dec 2, 2018

Maybe i am of the "younger" generation in the mopar world, but i know what a BSH is

YY1 · Dec 2, 2018

...if the ID of the tube is exactly the ID of the holes in the hinge...and centered.

If it's not it will have almost no effect until the holes are wallowed out enough for the pin to contact the tube.

...but I like the idea.

jogirob · Dec 2, 2018

Geez these pins are being a bear. Sawed one of the bolt ends off and tried tapping it through and it woudln't even budge. I sawed the pin around the half way mark and pried and punched from the middle out and nothing. Sprayed some liquid penetrant and gonna let it sit for a day or so. If that doesn't work I'm going to try drilling from the head of the bolt I lopped off.

Wietse · Dec 3, 2018

There was no cutting required really.
You need someone to hold a heavy hammer against the bracket where the pin sits and you use a punch and hammer and hammer it up. (Only the section below the pin head is knurled and keeps it in place, the rest slides out easy enough)
With a heavy hammer as "backup" on top of the bracket prevents any "bend and flex" so all your effort is put in moving the pin.
They are tight but will come out as described above.

JB400 · Dec 3, 2018

Try lifting up on the door a little bit and take the weight off of it. Caution: don't lift too high as you'll put the hinge in a bind, making the job more difficult

Wietse · Dec 3, 2018

You will have to remove the door, it is going to be a huge struggle with the door in place.
After replacing the pins you need to do adjustments anyway to get it right.

jogirob · Dec 3, 2018

Yup door is off. Super easy with the help of my transmission jack. Not looking forward to the install.
The pins are mushroomed off so there's no other way to get them out other than cutting. I wish I'd left the head in tact to give me a prying area to lift from the top and punch from the bottom.

Wietse · Dec 3, 2018

Keep a big hammer on top of the hinge, smash from the bottom with a punch and a hammer.
Only the top part has the knurl, once it is out the rest will follow.

MoparLeo · Dec 3, 2018

There have never been factory "Rebuild kits " for these hinges, just partial kits that have cobbled together over the years. That is why they always give you bushings for the lowers ( and no instructions) that you cannot install without actually damaging the lower hinges. If you want them done properly And completely ( door check pins, roller replaced), contact me. Member discount . Thanks Leo
https://www.forebodiesonly.com/foru...-remanufactured-door-hinges.11422/#post-67975

jogirob · Dec 3, 2018

Alright the top hinge pin is out! Broke my big fat flathead screwdriver but it's out. The dulled out flathead provides a better surface area to bang away at this anyways. Looking at the pin pieces the mushroomed off top I sawed off still had a slight taper to it so that's why I was unable to punch it down from the top. I even sanded it all the way down to the hinge it was in. Cutting it in half and punching from the center out is the only way, for this setup at least. I'm convinced there are multiple versions of these hinge pins! The bottom pin half did have those knurls Wietse mentioned. Once I got past the knurls the remaining bottom piece of pin slipped right out.

I had so much space to work on the top hinge pin, the bottom one is going to be even tougher. Will have to consider just unbolting it from the body and sending into MoparLeo depending on how things go. I'm just hesitant because I've heard lining these doors up is a difficult task even with 2 people on it.

Any pro tips to replacing door hinge pins on this 74?

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