bm02tj
Well-Known Member
PVC is not permitted in BC as it is dangerous when it shatters
Rehau PEX is rated for compressed air and if you use the everloc fittings it will never leak
Garage air line plumbing options?
- Thread starter 747mopar
- Start date
PVC is not permitted in BC as it is dangerous when it shatters
Rehau PEX is rated for compressed air and if you use the everloc fittings it will never leak
Did my friend's whole shop with schedule 40 PVC in the early 80's. A few leaks over the years at
the Tee joints, but not anything to talk about. Schedule 40 doesn't shatter like I've read, just springs
a leak that can be fixed easily. Pitch everything back to the tank for water drain and everything
will be fine. You can spend a million bucks on this stuff, but as long as you're not going over 175psi
you should be good. Sand all of the joints, inside and out before you glue it together for extra bite.
the Tee joints, but not anything to talk about. Schedule 40 doesn't shatter like I've read, just springs
a leak that can be fixed easily. Pitch everything back to the tank for water drain and everything
will be fine. You can spend a million bucks on this stuff, but as long as you're not going over 175psi
you should be good. Sand all of the joints, inside and out before you glue it together for extra bite.
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Just out of curiosity, why are you against black pipe?
oldbee
Well-Known Member
Devon, I kinda think you’re over-thinking. Worked at 24/7 shops(steel lines) and shop that was also steel for 2shifts. Gazillion air tools going all at one time. You are a 1-man, not all the time shop. Even PCV oughta work.Personally I’d go with the PEX stuff? (easier to work with(?))). Also if compressor is upstairs I wudnt worry. U have heat rising up from downstairs. That compressor is gonna heat up the air more than enuf for intake.
bm02tj
Well-Known Member
If you use pickled pipe with an air drier no trouble
Or filter at all the outlets to keep flakes wrecking your tools
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I guess I just see it as inviting problems that can be avoided, why use an inferior product when there's better options? All of our airlines both at work and at home are black, both work just fine but both also spit rust out on occasion. I just think there's better options.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Wouldn't a one man shop be more prone to rust with lines laying idle for the week vs a full blown shop where moisture is constantly exhausted? That's my thoughts anyways.
BigBlock61
Well-Known Member
Watching because I have to do the same.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Just realized last night that Summit sells this kit
. I love dealing with Summit so that makes it even better. Going to start drawing it up today but What I'll likely do is buy the 3/4" 100' kit with a few added 3/4"-1/2 fittings and some 1/2" line for drops to at least get the compressor moved. At $250 I honestly can't see doing it in anything else, black pipe might be a bit cheaper but your talking peanuts at this point.
Talking to our rep at work he recommends going 1 1/2 times the compressor outlet dia for your airline so mine being 1/2" that's why I'm going 3/4". If I'm understanding correctly going larger reduces velocity which allows moisture to settle in the drop legs vs being carried to the tools.
. I love dealing with Summit so that makes it even better. Going to start drawing it up today but What I'll likely do is buy the 3/4" 100' kit with a few added 3/4"-1/2 fittings and some 1/2" line for drops to at least get the compressor moved. At $250 I honestly can't see doing it in anything else, black pipe might be a bit cheaper but your talking peanuts at this point.Talking to our rep at work he recommends going 1 1/2 times the compressor outlet dia for your airline so mine being 1/2" that's why I'm going 3/4". If I'm understanding correctly going larger reduces velocity which allows moisture to settle in the drop legs vs being carried to the tools.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Had this donated by a friend too, I have an 80 gallon compressor from Lowes that works great but has a cheap aluminum 2 stage pump that leaks oil so this is going on. It's a Curtis pump that appears to be very well made and is cast iron so the noise level should drop significantly.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
When I was researching plumbing for my IR unit, after a lot of digging, what I found was the issue with PVC was that the glue for the fittings gets attacked/softened by the oil mist from the actual compressor that gets by. The main problem was that my IR uses a synthetic oil which is the culprit. Went with copper. Will be watching/researching for my new shop when I get the go ahead.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I need friends like yours....
oldbee
Well-Known Member
You could be right; add drains on drop legs & drain everything when u leave.
Curt Chambers
Well-Known Member
I installed the Rapid Air 3/4" rigid aluminum tubing in my shop about 8 years ago. It was easy to work with, looks great, and no leaks. The compression fittings they use work real well. I installed 3 drops with a manifold at the bottom of each drop. Each manifold has 2 air hose connections and a built in moisture drain. Very slick system. And its easily reconfigurable if you need to extend the lines or put in another drop.
If you are seeing rust from a black pipe air line system, it has Not, been installed properly...
Lets start with, I'm a licensed pipe fitter by trade, I have threaded and installed a couple thousand miles of black pipe in my career. Do all your air lines slope back to your compressor?
Your systems you are referring to, have, inverted trap feeds? Most important feature!!!!
My own shop, 22 years now, with a Devilbiss spay booth, inverted traps and clean out valves, and an air drier, that has sat next to the compressor for 22 years, and never been hooked up. Why, because , NEVER have I even any indication of moisture in my lines. The clean out valves at the bottom of every feed line was a total waste of money , as I have never witnessed any water or debris.
A better option, yeah the next product up, stainless steel!!!!
Plastic, NEVER!!!! , The main reason black pipe is not used for the home hobbiest, is you need to know someone, with a pipe threader, and that will be an expense..
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Hmmm, I like input from a pro and we just happen to have a Rigid pipe threader and not the hand type either lol.
Yes we sloped the lines but it might have been away from the compressor to a drop leg, I'd have to look? Please post the traps you recommend too if you don't mind. Our old garage was built when I was probably 19... I put more thought into things now lol.
Another thing I'm thinking about is adding a cooler to the compressor discharge before the tank, would that be beneficial as well? Bottom line is.. if I know I can get rust free air from black pipe then that's back on the table for sure, I like working with it.
So why NEVER on plastic?
Last edited:
High pressure and plastic, just do not mix.... those plastic line kits are for DIY's and are CHEESEY.....They are produced for the cliental that either have no access to the proper materials or equipment and or knowledge, or maybe needed for a temp situation. It may be, that I'm just old school, I would run black iron over copper, or plastiflex hose on any natural gas or propane appliance. When I come across a rooftop unit, unit heater, that has been replaced with a premade flex line the only word that comes to mind is.....What a, HACK,.... fast, quick and cheap.
I will kick out some pic's over the weekend, inverted trap means you take your line drop from the 12 o clock position, never 3,6,or 9 position, and usually use a 4 in nipple up, 90, 3 in nipple, 90, and down. I have seen so many main air lines mounted level on the wall, great for electrical conduit, but not water return. Will post some pic's..
I will kick out some pic's over the weekend, inverted trap means you take your line drop from the 12 o clock position, never 3,6,or 9 position, and usually use a 4 in nipple up, 90, 3 in nipple, 90, and down. I have seen so many main air lines mounted level on the wall, great for electrical conduit, but not water return. Will post some pic's..
- Local time
- 2:32 AM
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2009
- Messages
- 17,688
- Reaction score
- 33,042
- Location
- State of insanity
I installed black pipe in my own garage/shop over 30 years ago, used for paint, tools, and blasting cabinet. Never had rust issues. As stated, must be installed properly. Others with the plastic mentioned leaks at joints. Today, I'd probably sweat copper pipe just for the ease.
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Same here, that's why I asked.
Similar threads
