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18 spline A833 Front Bearing Install

Jetblast

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Hi All, I am rebuilding a 69 18 spline for the 66 Coronet project and am using the how-to manual that is the popular favorite along with disassembly pictures to re-assemble it.
One area that is kind of glossed over in the manual is removing the input shaft with the large bearing, it has a line about pressing the shaft out using the case with the retaining ring in for support. All well and good.
Now I am reassembling it and the book says to reinstall the bearing using a drift after the input shaft is back in place. I believe that this is the method to use for small bearing input shafts but I don't believe that the bearing is going to be hammered back on with this transmission
Anyone out there done this?

Thanks
 
I have done Ford Toploader gearbox and they basic design seems the same to me.
When I did it I pressed the bearing on and installed the input shaft "complete" then loaded in the output shaft.
What your book says does not sound right you do not want to hit bearings if you can avoid it.
If the input shaft came out in one piece it will go back in the same way.
 
Another thought I had is if you press bearings on to your input shaft you need to push on the inner race otherwise the force of pressing can damage a bearing.
Generally pieces of pipe do the job.
 
I've tapped the bearings on using a brass drift. Tap around the bearing inner race in about four different places going around until the bearing seats. Do this on the bench before installing the assembly in the case (obviously ?!?!). I believe the 308 bearing input installs from the front whereas the 307 installs from the inside.
 
Just did one a month ago. I must have the same book. No way was I going to do it that way. I pressed on the bearing first, then installed input shaft assembly. No problems.
 
I also recently did a Toploader and went through this with the rear bearing on the shaft. A rebuilder said to heat the bearing up with a MAP torch and then quickly slip it on and tap it home. Tried that to the point that I discolored the bearing from heat and still no go. I didn't like the looks of the discolored bearing so I ordered another bearing and measured the shaft and bearing bore and found about .002 to .003" interference fit. I rigged up a sanding drum with a socket that barely fit in the bearing bore with emery cloth wrapped on it and polished the bearing bore down to where I had .001" interference. Then I heated it with a heat gun set on high for awhile, slipped it on the shaft and tapped it down into position by working around the outside of the bearing center with a brass punch and light hammer blows. It wasn't going anywhere so problem solved.
 
Thanks all, I believe 65 has the right answer. Putting the bearing on what I want think is normal with the 23 spline, doing the brass drift thing is doable but there is no way I the 18 spline front bearing is going to be drifted on.
PSSS. I wrote to the guy that wrote the book and explained what we were looking for. I did get a reply but I really don't believe that it was posted by the author because the answer was exactly what the book said, just reverse order assembly. This in spite of the fact that the bearing has to be pressed on and, by their own words, the bearing comes from the inside with the large bearing
I plan to press it on and attempt to put it in from the inside, will post how it goes

Lloyd
 
I have no idea what the book says HOWEVER I would imagine either bearing could be removed by tapping the input shaft out while the bearing is held in the case by the retaining ring. Not the way I'd ever do it !!

Reinstallation of the bearing - there is no harm in tapping the bearing on using a brass drift on the inner race. Once the bearing is started it will go on square with no issues and no damage to either it or the shaft.

A long time ago I was doing a 4-speed and needed the bearings removed. Someone recommended a local racer and so I went to his shop. He took the main shaft, tossed a block of wood on the floor and proceeded to drop the mainshaft from about a one foot height (bearing end down). It took about six drops and the bearing fell off. He told me to go and do the same with the input on the bench. Same deal - off it came. Reinstallation ... set the bearing in place and start dropping the shaft ... on they go !! That's the only way I've done it ever since, not only on transmissions but any other shaft with a bearing pressed on.
 
Thanks for the information. For large bearing cases, disassembly is to leave the retaining ring on and press it out using the case for support. Problem with assembly, the large bearing goes on from inside and even if it went on from the outside it is a very tight fit and I don't believe it would be just tapping it on with a drift.

Lloyd
 
Measure your interference fit as I mentioned above. If it's more than .001 then I would work the bearing over to get it down and it should tap on without too much effort then or beating the kajezzus out of it.
 
It's fairly easy, I've done many, and I broke a main shaft before I figured it out. Take the main shaft out, remove the c clips, stand straight up on a 2X4 bump it on wood, do the drive shaft end first, careful when the bearing comes off all gears will also, now turn it over to knock the other bearing off. To install just load bearing and gears correct. A piece of pipe just big enough to slide on main shaft and slide hammer back together. Thanks Joe
 
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