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New build not starting

One last distributor remark...the way you're timing it, when your damper is at that 15btdc mark, the rotor should be pointing exactly (as close as possible) to that #1 wire tower...obviously you cant see the rotor with the cap on but ypu can mark the cap position on the distributor base and then align rotor to that mark. In other words if they're not directly lined up you're timing could be off quite a bit
 
I would like to say pull each plug one at a time and ground them, and crank to make sure they're all sparking good....BUT with this being a fresh engine with no break-in time...that's sketchy...
 
Sonny said:
Also it looks like the dizzy cap doesn’t go all the way down around the notch “maybe” causing some of the non firing issues between the wires and rotor button?
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Here' my 2-cents.... put on a 440 distributor cap. Like you said, if it doesn't seat all the way & the cap is cocked sideways, that would cause your problem (& sorry if my small block knowledge is weak)

Also, as beanhead stated, go back to the basics....
a. Is your timing set at #1 at the correct Top Dead Center? (TDC happens twice for #1 to fire once). You have to see that the #1 valves had just opened & closed to make sure you have the correct TDC.

Lastly...are your 4 header tubes "slightly warm" or "burn your hand hot" & like someone else mentioned, which tubes are hot?
b. Is your firing order with the wires correct vs. each cylinder + on the cap?
c. Is your firing order COUNTER clockwise?
d. After this, I also like the idea of setting the distributor's "reluctor" (pointy bumps) vs. magnetic pickup a little on the tight side (I think beanhead metioned this too?)
 
Why are you using a 360 cap on a 440? I don't care what you say that they look identical or what. I bet you dollars to donuts that that's your problem! Good Luck
 
69a100 said:
Why are you using a 360 cap on a 440? I don't care what you say that they look identical or what. I bet you dollars to donuts that that's your problem! Good Luck
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Summit lists the same caps for 360’s and 440’s. I hope you’re right!
 
One thing to remember is that if the carb is flooding, it is washing the oil off of the cylinders, and they will glaze & prevent the rings from breaking in.
 
69a100 said:
Why are you using a 360 cap on a 440? I don't care what you say that they look identical or what. I bet you dollars to donuts that that's your problem! Good Luck
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Mopar Performance cap P4529791 is listed as for both big block and small block.
 
Since it's a fresh build, if you have the means, suggest a compression test, to see if their all fairly even.
Remember...three things to make it run...fuel, spark, and compression!
 
Sonny said:
Summit lists the same caps for 360’s and 440’s. I hope you’re right!
Click to expand...
Photon440 just chimed in that 360 & 440 caps are the same (thanks)….but, I just saw a post on here with a similar issue (no "locator notch" on the cap). I think someone mentioned something about a Prestolite vs. Mopar distributor has (or doesn't have) that notch???? So....it still might not be correct without the notch. The cap needs to sit completely flat down on the top of the distributor.
 
Runs compression test, don't hit anything with a hammer. On a new build you may have valve lash to tight and valves don't close. If your using stamped rockers on a rail with stick push rods it's pretty hard to do unless you got solid lifters instead of hydraulic. That happened to me once, Comp had them boxed wrong. Had a heck of a time until I figured out what happened.
 
69L48Z27 said:
Runs compression test, don't hit anything with a hammer. On a new build you may have valve lash to tight and valves don't close. If your using stamped rockers on a rail with stick push rods it's pretty hard to do unless you got solid lifters instead of hydraulic. That happened to me once, Comp had them boxed wrong. Had a heck of a time until I figured out what happened.
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Thanks I have stamp rockers/rails. But I’ll push down on them and see if the compress. I have Comp lifters and cam.
 
69L48Z27 said:
Runs compression test, don't hit anything with a hammer. On a new build you may have valve lash to tight and valves don't close. If your using stamped rockers on a rail with stick push rods it's pretty hard to do unless you got solid lifters instead of hydraulic. That happened to me once, Comp had them boxed wrong. Had a heck of a time until I figured out what happened.
Click to expand...
I’m worried that the compression test ahead of cam break in is a bad idea?
 
Sonny said:
Thanks I have stamp rockers/rails. But I’ll push down on them and see if the compress. I have Comp lifters and cam.
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You have started the motor, so they won't compress by hand.
 
Sonny said:
I’m worried that the compression test ahead of cam break in is a bad idea?
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Just do a good pre-oil first. Shouldn't be anything to worry about, since you're only doing a few rotations for each cylinder.
IF you hear any 'weird' noises, stop, and find out what it is!

Right now, there's no telling what your looking at. The basics need to be checked, and will give clues if there's any problems.
Could be in your ignition, might not...takes a peek!

A 383 I built, first run, was total crap! Hunt and peck! Problem...5 out of 8 new spark plugs were cracked!
 
Sonny said:
I’m worried that the compression test ahead of cam break in is a bad idea?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't worry about it like @miller said. Take all your plugs out when you do the test. As you spin the engine it will pump some oil through the bearings for the bottom end. If your valve springs are really heavy, your supposed to pull the inner spring for break in.
 
69L48Z27 said:
I wouldn't worry about it like @miller said. Take all your plugs out when you do the test. As you spin the engine it will pump some oil through the bearings for the bottom end. If your valve springs are really heavy, your supposed to pull the inner spring for break in.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks. The springs aren’t too bad. The cam has slightly elevated lift. .477 and .480
 
Last edited:
I went ahead and did a quick compression test on cylinders number seven and number eight. Both were almost exactly 165 to 167. How does that compare to Most 440s? My engine is .030 overbore with Keith black raised pistons on 452 head’s.
 
Sonny said:
I went ahead and did a quick compression test on cylinders number seven and number eight. Both were almost exactly 165 to 167. How does that compare to Most 440s? My engine is .030 overbore with Keith black raised pistons on 452 head’s.
Click to expand...

165 is great on the compression. My build is almost the same as yours and thats the number I get. How about the rest of your cylinders?
 
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