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Stroker or Stock

tnfastback

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Tore 440 down and sent block and crank to machine shop for inspection. They called and informed me block needs bored .030 and the crank has already been turned .010/.010 Anyway seeing how I will now basically need a rotating assembly I need some direction. The car will be used for street/cruise ins and is a 4 speed 373 rear axle with six barrel set up and has 516 closed chamber heads. Buying a stock crank, rods, pistons-rings and bearings puts the cost within $500 of a stroker kit. I don't want to change heads, so my question is using the 516 heads what kit and piston type should I be looking at or should I just go back stock. Before pulling the engine the performance was satisfactory for me, so I am not looking to build something radical.
 
Given that you have to replace the rotating assembly anyway, I would build a stroker; the additional torque will make the car a pleasure to drive.

I am no expert and won't pass myself off as one, but some have expressed concerns that really long strokes can wear the bores quicker. I don't know if that is true, but a 4.15" stroke should get you to 500ci engine. That should drop in easily with no block work, as opposed to a more radical stroke of 4.5", which gets you near to the mid 500's for cubic inches.

I'm sure others will chime in
 
Seams like a no brainer on the stroker. As for pistons you'll need to do the math, the formulas are out there but you'll need to know the stroke, bore, head cc's and head gasket thickness. With big cubes comes more volume so you'll likely need a good dish or possibly put the piston down in the hole a touch. Piston specialist like Diamond are great for this, you give them the numbers and they can quote the right piston in minutes, not sure about 440 source?
 
IMO there's no replacement for displacement
it's $1800-$2000 for a decent affordable 'stroker' rotating assembly

nothing wrong with a stock stroke 3.75" 440 either
can make 500 reliable hp, pretty easily
with a little porting, gasket matching
& performance valve work (or bigger valves too)
a decent camshaft
& proper induction
& proper exhaust
& proper ignition

you could bore it & turn the 0.010"-0.010" crank to 0.020"-0.020" too
no harm, no foul, there's plenty of meat on the journals
still plenty strong

I'd suggest getting all new "quality" hardware
at a min resize the rods, get better rod bolts
& balance the assembly
if you choose to use the stock crank

a good set of I-Beam or H-Beam rods wouldn't hurt either

with 516 heads
IMO a good flattop Hypertech or Forged piston
with valve notches for pistons would be a good choice
it will depend on 'how far down in the bore the pistons will be'
& what head-gaskets bore & thickness you use,
or any combustion chamber mods
to determine what compression ratio will ultimately be
 
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That’s an easy one. Work with your engine builder to pick a kit with a good CD on the piston. It’ll live along life and make gobs of torque. As mentioned above, 4.150 or 4.250
 
Thanks for all the replies. Also found out this evening that the 516 heads have been cut at some point in their life, so the machine shop is going to calculate what cc the heads are to help figure an estimated final compression ratio. I am thinking for the street use 10:1 compression is around where I need to be??
 
OK, I'm a salmon swimming up stream here. If the horsepower was fine before, then rebuild it as a 440. I'm not sure you will get the benefit of an extra 60 cubic inches without changing heads too....just my opinion.

.030" oversize pistons are not a big deal + a crank can be turned as much as .020" or .030" on either rods/mains & bearings are available.
 
I guess that's why I posted asking if the $500 difference in the two different directions was worth it. But if the consensus is that the performance difference would be minimal I guess the difference in money is kind of a waste.
 
I guess that's why I posted asking if the $500 difference in the two different directions was worth it. But if the consensus is that the performance difference would be minimal I guess the difference in money is kind of a waste.
it's not really a waste

like I said earlier "there's no replacement for displacement"
unless it's a fuel &/or compressed "boost", supercharged/turbo'd etc.

torque is what moves a heavy car (any car or truck for that matter)
a longer stroke can achieve more torque = good
cubic inches can too

depends on what you want to do with the car
a well built stock stroke 440, is a pretty damn good combo
of easily 500 ft-lbs of torque & 500 Hp

it all needs to match
a bunch of mismatched parts is a waste
no mater the stroke

everyone needs to weight out cost factor & proper use,
to make a good decision

we are all just giving you options to think about

none are bad, some may be better than others
 
What cam was in your 440 to start with?
Would you be willing to buy a different cam? No point picking a piston till you know what cam your going to use.

Remember to factor in the cost of balancing if your piecing a build together with you old crank. May not be a factor in your build but there is way less bearing selection for BBM once you go undersize.

For a $500 difference I would go with the stroker.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Also found out this evening that the 516 heads have been cut at some point in their life, so the machine shop is going to calculate what cc the heads are to help figure an estimated final compression ratio. I am thinking for the street use 10:1 compression is around where I need to be??
Iron head and 10-1 is not exactly pump friendly. It is so-able but I’d advise against it.
9.0-1. You’ll never feel or see the 1 point extra in ratio.
OK, I'm a salmon swimming up stream here. If the horsepower was fine before, then rebuild it as a 440. I'm not sure you will get the benefit of an extra 60 cubic inches without changing heads too....just my opinion.
Actually, no, I agree. As I have read a few times, if you build a stroker with anstock top and, you might as well had built the stock displacement. (Being a 440.) Without the extra head and intake to feed it, it will perform the same as the Stock displacement engine did.

The stock heads are fine for what they were doing but in addition inches, there a major cork.
IMO, building a stroker without at least good heads never mind great heads, would be a waste of time money and effort.
 
So what was the reason for the tear down in the first place? Did something fail inside? Burning oil?

I would LOVE to build a stroker for my car. But stroker kits turn into aftermarket heads, different cam.... the list could go on. All depends on what your budget is.

You did mention that you were satisfied with the power it had, so I would have to agree with PurpleBeeper and regrind the old crank, overbore the block.
 
Iron head and 10-1 is not exactly pump friendly. It is so-able but I’d advise against it.
9.0-1. You’ll never feel or see the 1 point extra in ratio.

Actually, no, I agree. As I have read a few times, if you build a stroker with anstock top and, you might as well had built the stock displacement. (Being a 440.) Without the extra head and intake to feed it, it will perform the same as the Stock displacement engine did.

The stock heads are fine for what they were doing but in addition inches, there a major cork.
IMO, building a stroker without at least good heads never mind great heads, would be a waste of time money and effort.
GREE w/ this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If performance aint a big deal, just have the crank turned again, it will still be bigger than a big block chevy !
 
So what was the reason for the tear down in the first place? Did something fail inside? Burning oil?

I would LOVE to build a stroker for my car. But stroker kits turn into aftermarket heads, different cam.... the list could go on. All depends on what your budget is.

You did mention that you were satisfied with the power it had, so I would have to agree with PurpleBeeper and regrind the old crank, overbore the block.

The car is in the paint shop and I decided to re-bearing and gasket engine. When we pulled everything apart the internals are worn out. Anyway I spoke to the machine shop Friday and they are going to give me the head CC calculation so I can get a compression figure based on the stroker kit.
 
Nice. 906 heads?

So it sounds like you’re learning towards the stroker kit?
 
Nice. 906 heads?

So it sounds like you’re learning towards the stroker kit?

Yeah kind of leaning toward stroker due to being the most bang for the buck. As I posted to start I was happy with the cars performance and car will now be 3.73 rear instead of 3.23 which should pep it up a bit.
 
Yeah kind of leaning toward stroker due to being the most bang for the buck. As I posted to start I was happy with the cars performance and car will now be 3.73 rear instead of 3.23 which should pep it up a bit.
The gear change alone would give you some more jam but takes away from highway mannors is the drawback.

Sounds like you are giving the car a good rebuild. That’s great. Don’t be shy with pics lol
 
I am getting ready to start posting some pics of progress. I didn't plan on this whole engine issue, but glad it was discovered now instead of later. When we turned the engine stand over after removing the crank 2 pistons almost fell out of the cylinders. Also whoever turned the crank at one time didn't deburr the oil holes in the crank journals and the bearings were scored badly. I really can't believe it didn't smoke or rattle. I guess a testament to Chrysler :)
 
Takes a lickin 'and keeps on tickin' !
 
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