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1969 Dodge Super Bee Coupe Restoration

So is anyone making the correct glass for the rear window.
The original glass on my '68 GTX is scratched very badly and I don't see being able to polish it out.

I saw in Justin's thread he bought his glass from David at ECS.. but it didn't specify just the windshield or the back glass as well. @moparnation74 We'll see if he can chime in...

I'll have lots of spares I can send you though!! LOL I gotta laugh, had a hard time even going out to the shop this morning. Looking at 4 back glass' tomorrow, maybe I'll buy them all. :)
 
I saw in Justin's thread he bought his glass from David at ECS.. but it didn't specify just the windshield or the back glass as well. @moparnation74 We'll see if he can chime in...

I'll have lots of spares I can send you though!! LOL I gotta laugh, had a hard time even going out to the shop this morning. Looking at 4 back glass' tomorrow, maybe I'll buy them all. :)
Wayne...you are making some fine progress here! Looking great!

Now about the glass. All the glass on the GTX is from ECS.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...y-father-my-69-gtx-restoration.127388/page-17
Post #333 states that ALL the glass came from ECS

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...gtx-restoration.127388/page-59#post-910781102
Post #1179

It just depends simply on how much you want to spend for new glass versus good used glass.....Secondly, the type of project your working on....A nice original sometimes can be polished out......
 
AMD back glass... not even a hint of being correct and why we're into this conversation. So the question would be, where is David getting back glass to date code.. that is correct in shape... and what does it sell for?

I spent over 60 hours polishing on my spare back glass and wasn't happy in the end.. not doing that again! LOL
 
AMD back glass... not even a hint of being correct and why we're into this conversation. So the question would be, where is David getting back glass to date code.. that is correct in shape... and what does it sell for?

I spent over 60 hours polishing on my spare back glass and wasn't happy in the end.. not doing that again! LOL
lol.....They both get the glass from one single supplier...That is JRD international in California....

The difference is ECS looks, inspects and actually gives a SH## about providing us the right glass. So anything that doesn't fall within spec of the original he sends back.....AMD doesn't care what they get as long as they have something to send out....Thats the one Critical and key difference.......The second key difference is ECS has the rights from Chrysler and the original manufacturers to etch and date the correct logos.....The AMD is just a generic Chrysler logo....

These etchings face in, face out, they are on the outside or on the inside and in my case the rear logo was different from the rest of the glass which had the same logo...all the dates were the same.....Everything was etched, dated and place the same as the original glass.....

As far as cost, list price was 540 but I got all glass from him and the actual cost was 459.00 just for the rear glass.....
 
For the crowd that likes to stamp things. OE hood to cowl seal. Washed off some dirt and this appeared on the drivers side end on the side that attaches to the hood.

PART NO: 2736142
SUPPLIER CODE NO: 82682A

Passenger side tail light assembly together and set in place.

Pulled my OE rear glass out, that was just sitting on dust patrol, and gave the rubber headliner trim one last chance to sit in place.

Even after all the hours I spent polishing a spare back glass I was never satisfied with it's clarity, and in May bought a new AMD repro back glass through National Moparts. $541Cdn + tax and a 2.5 hour trip to pick up!

I specifically asked Scott and Nigel if AMD had corrected the curves of the backglass, as I had been told they were wrong. They assured me all was good so I ordered one and heck the bottom edge fits the contour better than the OE !

I spent 1/2 an hour spacing the glass out nicely with rubber spacers to get even overlap onto the metal edges.

Put some "alignment" tape in place to be sure I hit the spot when dropping it in onto fresh butyl.

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Not too often do you see that stamping......Great pic.....
 
Can't wait for my paint mans schedule. Fenders out and ready to go on.

Thought I'd mount the headlight splash shield rubbers first, but found I am obviously missing something. Guess there's a metal shield I need, long lost.. probably Saunders body shop in 1978. More parts to hunt down..

Bird moved and the Bee turned across the two bays ready for fender install.

Tape, because I know myself ...

Realized there's one more 5/16" clip nut that goes on the fenders, to mount the rear splash shield. You can see a bit of fender repair as well, can't buy replacements for a Coronet.

So much for those countless hours applying RPM ! Shop set at 35% humidity and still rusted in 9 months. Should have listened to the resto / paint shop and painted everything.

Fenders set in place and bolts in loose to set gaps and mount front grill cross / support pieces.

Hinges ready to install.

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Note that the upper rear bolt has a larger washer than the other two bolts on each side.

Fenders and hood hinges on and lightly tightened.

Temporary bolts to get everything in place and then one time only with the painted ones to cut paint chipping.

Bolt count on the 1/4-20's. Different lengths and counting where they all go to keep it uniform looking.

Almost missed the 1/4-20 clip nuts on the headlight buckets, to mount the upper grill support.

Clip nut in place.

Grill supports in place. Upper loose until I line everything up and bottom one tightened in place.

Goodnight sweetheart !

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Can't wait for my paint mans schedule. Fenders out and ready to go on.

Thought I'd mount the headlight splash shield rubbers first, but found I am obviously missing something. Guess there's a metal shield I need, long lost.. probably Saunders body shop in 1978. More parts to hunt down..

Bird moved and the Bee turned across the two bays ready for fender install.

Tape, because I know myself ...

Realized there's one more 5/16" clip nut that goes on the fenders, to mount the rear splash shield. You can see a bit of fender repair as well, can't buy replacements for a Coronet.

So much for those countless hours applying RPM ! Shop set at 35% humidity and still rusted in 9 months. Should have listened to the resto / paint shop and painted everything.

Fenders set in place and bolts in loose to set gaps and mount front grill x / support pieces.

Hinges ready to install.

View attachment 694425 View attachment 694426 View attachment 694427 View attachment 694428 View attachment 694429 View attachment 694430 View attachment 694432 View attachment 694433
The only prevention I have found to work the best is BOESHIELD.......I did an extensive test with many.........I had the same issue as you experienced in the past....

Your are not at a loss my friend......Take some 0000 steel wool and clean with thinner and apply Boeshield. The key is to not touch the part after applied, if you do just reapply it.......

If your plans are to drive it a lot, than your painter is right.......

That aside...man the car looks Flipping AWESOME!
 
Just look at that!......Man the end of the road is getting near....Very exciting and happy for ya Wayne!

Had to save a few of your pics btw...

622597-9df1b6f2b04c296e18349dd513cffca5.jpg
 
Just look at that!......Man the end of the road is getting near....Very exciting and happy for ya Wayne!

Had to save a few of your pics btw...

View attachment 694447
great job wayne with car i have been reading your thread,hard work and attention to details as justin did with his car,your inner fender splash shields are they left black or they are painted car color as they are seen under both sides of fenders? thanks
 
great job wayne with car i have been reading your thread,hard work and attention to details as justin did with his car,your inner fender splash shields are they left black or they are painted car color as they are seen under both sides of fenders? thanks
You'd have to stick your head up there pretty far to see them! They just stop crap that's slung off the wheels from getting thrown up above the headlight bucket. That area is a totally closed "dead end", it doesn't come back out. Ie you can't see in there from the front.
 
You'd have to stick your head up there pretty far to see them! They just stop crap that's slung off the wheels from getting thrown up above the headlight bucket. That area is a totally closed "dead end", it doesn't come back out. Ie you can't see in there from the front.
are they black or painted car color?
 
Precious cargo loaded at destination, approximately 300 KM from home. Hard to clean and inspect glass on a -4C day in an non heated, non lighted shop to see what I was really getting, but I certainly tried my best. Glass cleaner freezing as I wiped. (Thanks for the glass, yack and trip down memory lane Fred. Now go catch some fish!)

So of course I bought two, so I can pick the best one. I'll be having a back glass sale in the near future!

And as fluke would have it, all the glass in my car, except vent windows, is dated November 1968. My "wing" vents are dated January 1969. One back glass I obtained today is dated December 1968. "128"

The other, and better one I think, is amazingly dated "118". November 1968 like my OE ! Tomorrow will be spend carefully cleaning glass.

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Glass I picked up yesterday has heavy filth along the lower edge from leaves and gunk, and then sitting in an attic for 30 years to bake it on.

I tried everything I had, acetone, reducer, gasoline, varisol, WD-40, Windex, glass cleaner, even the cerium polish with the buffing pad. None even touched it after 2 hours of farting around.

Went in for late lunch and complained to the boss that I was getting nowhere. And she handed me this.

Cook top cleaner, a bit of water and the scrubber + a bit of SOS scrub pad lightly.

10 minutes later we have the cure and next time I'll just ask the boss first! Still needs lots of work, but I at least have a method to clean it right up.

beerestorationfall2018 1315.JPG beerestorationfall2018 1318.JPG beerestorationfall2018 1319.JPG beerestorationfall2018 1323.JPG beerestorationfall2018 1324.JPG
 
Glass I picked up yesterday has heavy filth along the lower edge from leaves and gunk, and then sitting in an attic for 30 years to bake it on.

I tried everything I had, acetone, reducer, gasoline, varisol, WD-40, Windex, glass cleaner, even the cerium polish with the buffing pad. None even touched it after 2 hours of farting around.

Went in for late lunch and complained to the boss that I was getting nowhere. And she handed me this.

Cook top cleaner, a bit of water and the scrubber + a bit of SOS scrub pad lightly.

10 minutes later we have the cure and next time I'll just ask the boss first! Still needs lots of work, but I at least have a method to clean it right up.

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Some gals can be very helpful at times!

Does this glass have the right profile?
 
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