• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Radiator core support "black out"?

We have discussed this over on FABO. The material was like thinned down undercoat and sprayed from underneath with a wand similar to a weed sprayer. There is a member with a extreme low mile Barracuda that has over spray splatter on the underside of the hood but no coverage on the top surfaces of the radiator support. Most colors got painted except the darkest shades but even that was hit or miss. There have been dark colored and even black cars painted and some car colors not painted.

Here's a quote: "I knew a guy who did the core support paint back in the day. He said it was painted from a pit and they used a nozzle on a hose kind of like a weed sprayer with water thin flat black paint. It was a nasty and boring job so any time someone called in sick or other reason to be gone the pit painters were the first to fill the missing position which left one person doing double duty in the paint pit. That is why so many were sloppy. One guy had to do twice as many cars. Sometimes both pit painters would upgrade for a day and those cars could have gone through with no core support paint, if there wasn't a newby to fill in."

And a link:https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/core-support-blackout.95796/#post-1972245121
 
If it helps, here's some of my '68 GTX as found untouched:
DSC05060.JPG

DSC05061.JPG
 
I've posted some original paint 66 and 67 cars the last time this came up.

Since then I have acquired 1 more 67 in original paint.

Also my 87 truck has the same paint with the same procedure.
I found that quite interesting.
 
Did the factory black out the core support on a 1969 Coronet B5 car?? I didn't think they did with the darker colours cars and I only remember mine this way, but I can't guarantee it's not Blue from the paint job in '78.

Shot is from before tear down, black is spray bomb that I did at some point in time. Can't remember if I did the grill support brace as well.

Someone asked me if I was blacking out the core support and here I ponder.. LOL
View attachment 695077
I decided to black mine out. I like the look. Your car looks beautiful, I think the black out would look great

20180806_130543.jpg 20180806_170456.jpg 20180806_210927.jpg 20180806_215504.jpg
 
I can't recall if my first '69 Road Runner (purchased new) was blacked out or not, but my current one (purchased in '14) was repainted before I bought it and was not. The more I thought about it, the less I liked it, so I rattle canned it this summer. I think it looks MUCH better.
 
When my car was painted in 2002, I left it red behind the grille. The change from driving it in it's original faded green to a shiny red was a big change and I loved the clean look. I resisted to paint over the shiny red even though I knew that the blackout was factory correct. In 2013 I relented...and now the grille looks much nicer.
00000015 (2).JPG
DSCN1391.JPG
DQ frontal.jpg
 
Found a nice picture that Mopars and Missiles posted a year ago of a Bee or RT !

View attachment 695209

Yeah dadsbee, that's my '69 Super Bee that I redid awhile back.

That is probably "over-restored" but looks really nice.

Right again Kern Dog, I for sure over did it on that car. It is a lot nicer now than it was when it was new from the factory. Here's a couple shots of it when it was only a couple months old.

1969 Dodge Coronet Super Bee #1HR.jpg
1969 Dodge Coronet Super Bee #2HR.jpg
1969 Dodge Coronet Super Bee #3HR.jpg
 
Do you have engine size script on both the fenders and the hood scoops? Was that factory?
 
Do you have engine size script on both the fenders and the hood scoops? Was that factory?

Yes, both. All the experts say it is wrong that way, but I have photo proof from '69 that it came from the factory that way (in fact you're looking at some of it here). At least it came home new from the dealership that way, I wasn't there when it was unloaded off the truck from the factory so can't vouch for that. But WHY would the dealership have screwed with it???
 
Last edited:
Why I asked, I've seen them all ways. None at all, on the fender, on the scoop and both. I can't remember how mine was originally as we did body and paint in '78 when I was 16 and believe we stripped the fender script. I borrowed my N96 hood from a buddies Bee and gave him my bubble hood just before my car went in for paint. No evidence the hood scoops had holes for script pegs. I have NOS script for both locations, just can't decide whether to install any of it.
 
Why I asked, I've seen them all ways. None at all, on the fender, on the scoop and both. I can't remember how mine was originally as we did body and paint in '78 when I was 16 and believe we stripped the fender script. I borrowed my N96 hood from a buddies Bee and gave him my bubble hood just before my car went in for paint. No evidence the hood scoops had holes for script pegs. I have NOS script for both locations, just can't decide whether to install any of it.

Well, as I said "the experts" say that with the N96 hood option you should ONLY have callouts on the hood scoops, none on the fenders. And that is exactly how my '69 R/T is setup, but not the Super Bee. I will agree with the "experts" that MOST N96 cars are "scoop only" but that's one of the great things about Mopars, there are no absolute rules about how these cars were built. There are known "exceptions" to every rule the experts make up.
 
If you get a chance, could you do me a favour and measure the distance from front of scoop to the front edge of the 383 script and distance from hood to bottom edge of same. Thanks!
 
If you get a chance, could you do me a favour and measure the distance from front of scoop to the front edge of the 383 script and distance from hood to bottom edge of same. Thanks!

Sure, but it'll be a few days before I can do that. And of course that's providing I can remember that long! :)
 
LOL.. no issues, I write myself notes! No rush, just want it for reference in case I decide to drill holes later! Thanks!
 
If you get a chance, could you do me a favour and measure the distance from front of scoop to the front edge of the 383 script and distance from hood to bottom edge of same. Thanks!

Here's some info for you dadsbee, hope it helps! :)

Curious, but the emblems are set back from the front of the scoop different amounts from passenger side to driver side? But both cars are that way and the same.

PC250038 dimensioned.jpg
PC250037 dimensioned.jpg
PC250035 dimensioned.jpg
PC250034 dimensioned.jpg
 
If anyone's doing the 'correct' blackout make sure to do it crappily LOL!
My car is still wearing it's factory paintjob throughout...as you can see it wasn't applied in a nice solid black. At least on mine (St. Louie built)
20181228_163949.jpg


20181228_164007.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top