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Crate engine vs. rebuild, what are your thoughts?

I agree and if you go with a crate engine, a 360 would give you a little more scoot. A 360 is a pretty painless swap, they are externally balanced though which would require a new harmonic balancer and converter
I had considered that option, but to save money and hassle, I think I will stay with the 318. It has plenty of power for what I use this car for which is just crusing.
 
I would definitely try to rule out exhaust leak .Taking out no# 5 could be right where the leak is at under the manifold.
 
Have you checked the spark plug itself?
Yes, all plugs have been changed just a few weeks ago, it did not make a difference in the tic. My shop put the car on the rack and did a close inspection of the exhaust system with the engine running and could not find any exhaust leak.
 
You pulled the plug wire or you removed the spark plug? I can't imagine you could hear anything with the plug out anyways. Maybe a little Seafoam or fogging oil down the carb to look for smoke/exhaust leak to rule that out.Is it down on power? Pull valve covers and make sure all rockers are moving and no bent pushrods. Cut oil filter apart and look for problems there. Many more things to check....
 
Get a crate 318, hold on to the original motor for an ornament.
I really do not have a place to keep the original engine. I REALLY need to build a shop, but gotta finish paying for the kitchen first!
 
Go to the shop @JimKueneman uses for his rebuilds and get an opinion/diagnosis and estimate for a rebuild.
 
You pulled the plug wire or you removed the spark plug? I can't imagine you could hear anything with the plug out anyways. Maybe a little Seafoam or fogging oil down the carb to look for smoke/exhaust leak to rule that out.Is it down on power? Pull valve covers and make sure all rockers are moving and no bent pushrods. Cut oil filter apart and look for problems there. Many more things to check....
No, just pulled the wire. Valve train was inspected and no issues found. Exhaust system was checked and ruled out as well. Oil filter is new and power is actually really good. I go back and forth between living with the tic and tearing it down. The car runs so good, I hate to touch it, but I just can't stand that noise!
 
It may seem like a lot of money but deals can be had. Example: I just picked up a motor home 440 and trans for $300. Owner told me it was running when parked and the rv only had 42000 miles on it. It may or may not need a rebuild but even if it does, it can be done on the cheap and still make 400hp. I plan on getting it running in the engine test stand and flipping it to fund the Road Runner resto.
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Good find Chuck! I hope you get a good price so you can spend it on the Road Runner!
 
Use an oil filter cutter and inspect the filter. Wrist pins and rod bearings don't normally "tick". Not that I have ever heard anyways but could be wrong.
 
Use an oil filter cutter and inspect the filter. Wrist pins and rod bearings don't normally "tick". Not that I have ever heard anyways but could be wrong.
I agree Jamie, you would think wrist pins or bearings would give a knock as opposed to a tic. But as you say, we could be wrong!
 
Tick Tick is usually an exhaust leak, collapsed lifter or bad cam lobe. If it were the chain it would make noise right up front.
5.9 Magnum if you decide to do a swap but you will need to do some fuel system changes.
Skip the fuel delivery changes. Swap the LA front timing chain cover forwards onto the 5.9. Hughesengines has a trick part to bolt into the shorter cam snout of a Magnum engine or swap a long snout Hyd. roller cam in for a LA series engine because that has the provisions for a fuel pump eccentric.

A B&M flexplate can be used for the converter for use of a neutral balance converter. A new front balanced will be needed to be sourced.

To skip the above balance issues, a 5.2 should be used.

First step NEEDS to be diagnosing the problem, could be something simple.
Bingo!
Best of luck to the OP.
 
318s are usually found on craigslist for cheap in good running condition.
Thx burntorng70, but if I am going to go through a swap, I do not want any question marks and would either rebuild of get a crate.
 
Precision Machine in Hauchuca City

Dave, @69Bee is the owner.
Thanks for the info Jim! I just spoke with Andy from Baker Machine shop here in Tucson. He rebuilt my 69 Corvette 427 last year. I was asking about rebuild costs and he said $2000 to $2500 depending on condition. He also mentioned that he has a 1974 or 1975 360 he rebuilt a year ago that the owner never picked up. He said it is a little warmed up and he has $2300 in it and would sell that for $2000. So that is another option. I believe they are the same block and should bolt up, but I know there were some changes after 1974, but I am not sure what they were. So if it us a 1975 block there could be some additional issues.
 
Those costs sound about right. I trust a rebuild more than a lower cost crate for the piece of mind in knowing the condition and quality of parts used.
 
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