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Stainless ground strap. Fuel tank to fuel line connection.

Speedbird

Bird of Pray
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Has anyone run into this problem?
I bought one and it has no "spring" to it.
When pushed onto the tubes it does not spring back and is loose on the tubes.
I'm wondering if I just got a bad one with incorrect tempering or something.
I pulled a photo off the internet.
Looks like this.

MF289_thumb.jpg
 
I've got a stock one, off my 64...same problem, guess it's wore out. Got tired of messing with it.
Left it on the workbench, and ran a strip of 12 gauge wire...works.
 
I bought a reproduction one several years ago, clipped it on, and it’s been working fine.

You probably just got a bogus one. Unfortunately, about 80% of all reproduction parts are junk.
 
Well, that sucks. I agree that 80% of the import parts are TOTAL JUNK (Hey, let's buy AMERICAN people!) Your marine-grade clamp (maybe with dielectric grease) would for sure work.

I guess it depends on how original you want to be. If you don't care, run a wire so you know the gas gauge works. If you DO care, then maybe try another one from somewhere else. You might also see if you can "doctor up the connection point" with some copper-filled (conductive) adhesive like used to repair rear window defoggers (wire type) with? (just throwing out ideas on that last part)
 
You could try to crimp it tighter if originality is important. Like Miller said above, wire strip and two small hose clamps worked for me.
 
Well, that sucks. I agree that 80% of the import parts are TOTAL JUNK (Hey, let's buy AMERICAN people!) Your marine-grade clamp (maybe with dielectric grease) would for sure work.

I guess it depends on how original you want to be. If you don't care, run a wire so you know the gas gauge works. If you DO care, then maybe try another one from somewhere else. You might also see if you can "doctor up the connection point" with some copper-filled (conductive) adhesive like used to repair rear window defoggers (wire type) with? (just throwing out ideas on that last part)
80% was putting it nicely....more like 98%........Again, when someone opens a catalog with the belief the part is correct and will function as original, then pays top dollar.....They receive the part, it doesn't fit well or not at all and doesn't function as the original. Nor looks even close to the original part....A HUGE disservice to our hobby!
 
The problem with worm clams and wire is access.
Have to work by feel and very little room on the tube between the sender body between and the hose.
Mad working the clamp and hose and didn't realize the stainless fuel tank was sharp till I got out
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Stainless by nature is very hard from the manufacturing process. That is an inherent problem with stainless. The original metal style is a much softer material which can be bent to conform to the profile of the fuel line yielding a better ground. Add to the fact that the original style as pictured is very short which makes it more difficult to work with. Chrysler I believe in 72 superceded the earlier part number with a longer variety which was twice the length which made it easier to get a better ground for the sending unit as well.
 
Works like a champ.
Claimed "Marine".
Tinned Teflon wire to a ground stud in the trunk.
Crimped at the support and soldered.
Did not use the screw.
Check out the "double" grounding. (Tank and trunk)

My 30 year old stock of clips was getting low.
Found a good price.


Very interesting.



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Here's what I did...clamped some braided ground strap firmly to sending unit nipple and then attatched to body...flexy and a solid electrical connection..
20170306_162701.jpg
 
I used my original, de-rusted it and put it back on.

Here is before
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Here is after
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Super easy, cheap fix.. wish I had a picture. On mine I took a copper strap for mounting 1/2" copper pipe, formed it around the fuel line, cut it to length and drilled a new hole so that when tightened down it clamped the fuel line tight then took a wire from the bolt to the chassis.
 
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