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Pulling engine

S

steve from staten island

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Im pulling my 383 out soon but I'm wanting to leave the trans in place. Im thinking the engine has to come up slightly to clear motor mounts or remove motor mounts and go straight ahead a few inches and then up and out.
What worries me is going in and lining up trans. Has anyone done this before? Thanks
 
Take a little wiggling around, only way I've done it. If it's an auto trans, convertor stays with trans.
 
You'd be better served, IMO, to just pull it as a unit. Separate them out of the car, marry them when ready and drop it back in.

Jack up the rear, pull the DS and cover the end of the trans to keep fluids in. Leave the rear up to pull the whole thing, much easier, again, IMO.
 
Bad Sport said:
You'd be better served, IMO, to just pull it as a unit. Separate them out of the car, marry them when ready and drop it back in.

Jack up the rear, pull the DS and cover the end of the trans to keep fluids in. Leave the rear up to pull the whole thing, much easier, again, IMO.
Click to expand...
Thanks, thats the way i originally put it in . I can drop the trans now as its disconnected. I may have to roll the car outside as i dont have the height to do it in one piece. Just thinking out loud
 
If leaving the trans in. I put a iron pipe across the inner fender wells(wrap the ends in pipe insulation so it doesn't scratch paint) and run steel wire through the trans bolt hole twist it and over the pipe then back to the opposite side trans bolt hole and twist that end so once you remove the jack from the trans it stays in place... When you put it back in just put jack under the trans and remove...
 
I would leave the trans in personally. Just be very sure the converter is seated properly either way you decide to approach it.
Take your time and have a helper. It seems like 2=3 when you do an engine install.
 
If the trans is still in the car I'd leave it there, it's so much easier to drop an engine by itself. Dropping both in at once requires jacking the car way up then man handling both down at a steep angle... been there. Something that really helps is to have either long bolts or studs to help line them up, get 2 started and they'll slide right together. Like mentioned, make sure the converter is all the way in, should spin freely with the engine and trans mated.
 
Its easy to swap out letting the trans stay. block of wood under the tranny pan and floor jack to hold it.
Also helps when going back in if your jack the trans up to near the top of the tunnel, the locate pins will hit the holes then let the hoist down a bit and floor jack, everything will settle right in place.
 
What I have found that really helps is one of those engine leveling attachments with a crank on the end. That in addition to what was all ready mentioned. Good Luck!
 
Be a baller. Rent or buy a cherry picker/engine crane. Support the trans in place by using ratchet straps from torsion bar to bar. Leave converter with the trans. You can actually keep the hood on if you are only pulling the engine.
 
Kern Dog said:
Be a baller. Rent or buy a cherry picker/engine crane. Support the trans in place by using ratchet straps from torsion bar to bar. Leave converter with the trans. You can actually keep the hood on if you are only pulling the engine.
Click to expand...
Happy New Year to all....Greg, i have the heads off the engine, so i sort of figured i could pull the short block out without removing the hood but was unsure with the engine assembled if it would be enough clearance. Thanks as this is a huge help. Im so tight for space i have no room to store the hood safely. The car is a convert and i was going to put some comforters on the top and lay it up there but i really dont want to do that. Leaving it covered outside in the winter is not a good idea either. Thanks again
 
I have a neat tool for this that my Dad made many years ago. A length of 2" steel "C" channel with hole drilled at each end to line up with the torsion bars. Threaded 3/8" steel J hooks, with nuts, in the holes. The hooks fit over the torsion bars. This will hold up the front of a Mopar transmission. It can also be adjusted to help in the alignment at re-installation using the threaded hooks.
 
Pulling separate. After you get that torque converter pushed back into the pump, rig something to hold it back there until you're ready to bolt the flex plate to it.

Like Bad Sport indicates, if you pull as an assembly, raising the rear of the car can cut the angle down for you. A spare yoke to plug the tail housing for trans fluid leakage can come in real handy.
 
What Kern Dog said. Wrap a ratchet strap around the T-Bars under the trans and snug it up to hold the transmission in place. After unbolting the converter from the flexplate, push the converter all the way into the transmission. The trans will hang up a bit on the dowl pins when pulling the trans, but not a big deal. removing the engine, they usually come apart easy. Re-installing the engine, might need to put a jack under the trans, and/or use a prybar between the emgine and trans to get the dowl pins back into the transmission.
 
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