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1968 Plymouth GTX

Before you get to carried away consider what stance/tires/driving your going to do. You might consider aftermarket arms. At the min. you might consider the offset moog bushings to get more adjustment for radial tires. Just throwing it out there so you don't waste time or money on something you might change later.
Are you talking about the upper control arms or both?
 
More blast cabinet work.
Lower Control Arms Blasted 1.JPG


I was wondering if these knuckles are reversible? The disc brake calipers were mounted on the front and If I can switch the left to the right it will put the caliper mounts to the rear. The only markings I could find on these are the raised triangles.
IMGP0032.JPG

Disc Brakes on Front.JPG

Got one rotor cleaned up.
Rotors.JPG
 
Are you talking about the upper control arms or both
Both. If you're doing a OEM restoration then you can probably get by with the Moog offset bushings. But it seems to vary car to car.
 
Fabricated some patches for my doors where someone hacked them up for speakers.

It's been a while since I have attempted anything like this so I started with the easy one - if there is such a thing. LOL
Door Driver damage.JPG



After:
Door Driver's Patch.JPG


The other side was a bit more challenging.
Door Passenger Damage.JPG


Step one:
Door Passenger's Patch.JPG


Step two:
Door Passenger's Patch 1.JPG


I still need to drill a hole in this one.
Patches aren't perfect but I hope to get better as the project progresses.
 
Moving right along Jim. At this rate you will overtake me and my daughters Duster project!
 
Moving right along Jim. At this rate you will overtake me and my daughters Duster project!

I highly doubt that.

Welded the catch nut in place:
Hood nut welded.JPG


Cleaned everything with Wax and Grease Remover, let flash for 30 minutes and blew off with air to remove any left over dust. Shot one coat of epoxy on the inside of the hood and top side of the hood support structure.
Hood Structure Epoxy.JPG

Hood Underside Epoxy.JPG


The small stuff is always a pain but needs to be done:
Hood Hinge Nuts Epoxy.JPG


Now to keep temps in the booth as close to 70 degrees as possible overnight. Then tomorrow I should be able to coat the the other side.
Have a 150,000 BTU kerosene (diesel fuel) heater to warm the shop up in a hurry and then a propane wall furnace to keep things comfortable.
I use one of these heaters to keep the booth up to temperature without having to heat the whole garage.
Space Heater.jpg
 
Fabricated some patches for my doors where someone hacked them up for speakers.

It's been a while since I have attempted anything like this so I started with the easy one - if there is such a thing. LOL
View attachment 694461


After:
View attachment 694466

The other side was a bit more challenging.
View attachment 694462

Step one:
View attachment 694467

Step two:
View attachment 694468

I still need to drill a hole in this one.
Patches aren't perfect but I hope to get better as the project progresses.

Turned out great....I’m going to be dealing with the same issue. Did u use a piece from a donor door, or fab the patch yourself....Jim

C9A6179A-461F-4891-A8E0-25B8980445C4.jpeg
 
I fabricated the pieces from some sheet metal. Same thickness. Used a cheap metal brake, bench vise and some steel pieces to help form the curves and angles.

You do nice work. Thanks for the info....
 
Sprayed some more epoxy today.
Rotors:
Rotors in Epoxy.JPG


Steering Knuckles
Steering Knuckles in Epoxy.JPG


Upper Control Arms:
Upper Control Arms in Epoxy.JPG


Upper Control Arm bolts, nuts and washers:
Upper Control Arm Bolts.JPG


Hood:
Hood in Epoxy.JPG


And Hood Support Structure:
Hood Structure in Epoxy.JPG
 
Welded inner support plates and hood hinge nut retainers back in place.
Hood Inner Support Plates Welded.JPG
 
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I purchased some Lord Fusor FUS-121 expandable foam to use between the hood skin and support structure. Was wondering what you used on yours?

Spoke with Lord Fusor tech support and they didn't think this product was right for what I was trying to do. The work time is only 5-10 seconds as the product begins expanding as soon as it hits the air. They also said it would resemble a soft foam like that in a pillow.

They recommended a black urethane product FUS-231 but when reading the information it doesn't say it's paintable.

Would like to know what others have used for this application.
 
Had someone suggest this product: 3M 4274 Duramix NVH
Sounds like it might be just the ticket for this application, doesn't expand or shrink, remains flexible and plenty of work time.
 
This is like what I used. Worked very well! and I used grey version of the 3-M product. I am out right now. can get the p# of the grey if you need.

IMG_2500.JPG IMG_2499.JPG
 
Needed to dismantle the brake pedal assembly to get it cleaned up:
Brake Pedal Assembly.JPG

Brake Pedal Assembly in Epoxy 1.JPG
Brake Pedal Assembly in Epoxy.JPG


Upper control arms are ready for rebuilding:
Upper Control Arms in Epoxy.JPG


Steering knuckles are ready for installation:
Steering Knuckles in Epoxy.JPG


Working to clean up the k-frame and disc brake calipers now. Hope to get them in epoxy tomorrow.
Still waiting for the weld-on sway bar mounts for the lower control arms and the sealer so I can reassemble the hood.
 
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