Viking Double OR Single Adjustables needed ?

Here is slow motion video of my typical launch (1.39) 60 foot.
As I have reported before, I have the complete Cal Trac setup...Bars, Mono-Leafs, Cal Trac 9 Way RR Shocks and Cal Trac 90/10 front shocks.
I get perfect "traction" with this setup (as shown in this video). You can see the rear end is "unloading" and the rear springs are "arching" a lot...but the car "hooks" with NO tire spin....BUT with my same setup when I took 120lbs out of the very rear of the car, the chassis unloaded so much that the slicks almost felt like they were "bouncing" and my 60' went to around 1.80 or so...my current setup did NOT work with the 120lbs out of the very rear of the car. I want to keep the 120lbs out so I can get a better ET from that weight savings.
I know that I need to keep the rear end from "unloading" like this.
I do believe from all the advice that I have gotten on B-body that I need different shocks (not my Cal Trac 9 ways) to keep the rear end from unloading and that I need different front shocks.
Here is the question:
Can I just buy SINGLE adjustable RR Viking shocks to control the "rebound" that is unloading the RR of the Chassis. They are $150 each and the Double Adj Vikings are $250 each. Do I need double adjustables to set the compression, or not.
Also for the front...Can I just buy the Competition Engineering 3 way (90/10, 80/20 and 60/40) front shocks for $52 each to control the front. I can set them of 60/40 to slow down the front end lift.
I am asking the questions only as a matter of saving money on my "money pit" of a car (lol).
I know double adjustable shocks offer more settings BUT, can I get by with the single adjustables or would I be wasting my money and then have to end up buying double adjustables ?
I also forgot to ask....Viking or Strange ??
Let me know.
Thanks, Mike
PS: Also...Could my Cal Trac 9 Way (single adjustable) shocks that I own and have on the car now be as effective as Viking and/or Strange Single Adjustable shocks...just now thought of that. I have been advised to set them on 7,8 or 9 settings to control the problem I am having my with chassis unloading with the weight out of the rear of the car....some guys have reported to me that when the Cal Tracs are set on 7,8 or 9 that sometimes the shocks actually break because of abuse of popping the transbrake button at 4000, or so, RPM.
Cal Trac recommends setting 1 (full soft) with a trans brake and they told me to try a 3 setting to control my chassis unloading with the lighter weight in the rear...but they said not to go to 8 or 9 ?? with a transbrake.
9 is their recommendation for footbrake cars.
Thanks..

Double adjustable for sure, gives you the ability to “fine tune” both compression and rebound. I’ve said before valving is critical! Don’t order off the shelf stock replacements, call the tech line and have the valving set up for racing, they’ll want to know, Weight, ride height, 4 link, ladder bar etc.

I run the Viking double adjustable with my 02 03 ss springs. I have the Competition Slide A Links. On the front is a factory replacement shock to keep the front end from coming u too fast. 1974 duster. 1.451 .60 sixty foot. 10.37 et. I would like to try sliders on the rear of the springs. Kim

Viking Double Adjustable.

Either way buy good adjustable front shocks. If it were me I'd spend the bucks and buy the doubles at both ends. The cost is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of the car. This would be a perfect video if it were slower. Its too quick to really diagnose the rear. The housing can move and return with-in 1-2 frames of video. In my opinion the front is way to loose. Do you have a similar video with the weight out?
Doug

dvw said:

Either way buy good adjustable front shocks. If it were me I'd spend the bucks and buy the doubles at both ends. The cost is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of the car. This would be a perfect video if it were slower. Its too quick to really diagnose the rear. The housing can move and return with-in 1-2 frames of video. In my opinion the front is way to loose. Do you have a similar video with the weight out?
Doug

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I don't have a video of the weight out.
My continuing question (respectfully) is this...will single adj rear shocks stop my extreme separation on the rear chassis and make the car HOOK ? Do I need the compression adjustment of the double adjustables to solve my problem ?
Right now I just do not have the budget for $500 for a pr of doubles...I have the $300 for the single adjustables. Should I just wait and get the doubles later on ?
I have a pair of "oem" shocks that I believe are probably 50/50 for the front. Would they be better than the 90/10 Cal Tracs AFTER I do something about the rear shocks.?
The front end is currently is REALLY LOOSE. Cal Trac recommends 5 1/2" of front end travel to make the Cal Tracs work best...When I initially checked this front end free travel I only had about 3" (with my stock front shocks and stock setting on my torsion bars)...so...I installed the 90/10 Cal Tracs and then unscrewed the torsion bar adjustment and let the bars "sag" down another 2.5" to get a total on 5.5" front end travel...just what Cal Trac wanted.
Now...like I have said before, the recommended Cal Trac settings work...I get traction and no wheel spin...but...doesn't work with the 120lbs out of the rear of the car.
Thanks Again. Mike

Nothing the matter with a lot of front end travel as far as helping traction. However it will slow R/T. Tighten up the shocks you have and try it. And yes I'd wait until you have the other $200.
Doug

dvw said:

Nothing the matter with a lot of front end travel as far as helping traction. However it will slow R/T. Tighten up the shocks you have and try it. And yes I'd wait until you have the other $200.
Doug

Click to expand...

Thanks.
Another question in my never ending quest for shocks....
Summit has the QA-1 DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE shocks on sale for $195 each, marked down from their normal price of $249.00 each.
Would these shocks work fine, and last, or should I spend the extra $50 (each) and buy Strange double adj shocks ?

Mike Gaines said:

Thanks.
Another question in my never ending quest for shocks....
Summit has the QA-1 DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE shocks on sale for $195 each, marked down from their normal price of $249.00 each.
Would these shocks work fine, and last, or should I spend the extra $50 (each) and buy Strange double adj shocks ?

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I bought QA1 double adjustables all the way around. Fronts do the job but the rears sure don't. Still think you should just turn the knobs tight on your current shocks once and see what it does. And slow the front end down.

Yes, slow the front down like I did, that’s why I have a factory replacement shock on the front. Vikings is what I have on the rear, double adjustables. Kim

again some good basic info here

http://www.cachassisworks.com/stories/techca-003_web.pdf