It ain't gonna leak.......... if it doesn't get water on it!! lol Butyl strip pressed down hard during install (with the waxed paper strip) onto metal hole and glass forced into the butyl when hot until you see the glass "turn black" so you know it's in the butyl. I have no fear that it's gonna leak if I get caught out in the rain.
Did you make up those spacers? Do you know the size? Your car is shaping upThe assembly line used auto caulking guns with Butyl, but this is a nice clean answer for one off's to install the back glass.
3/8" is the correct thickness for the Coronet / Bee.
No point reaching in and scratching quarter panel paint when you can just sit on the package tray to install the butyl!
Almost all the way around.
My lovely assistant of 36+ years. We took this car to the chapel and back!
Checking trim depth / fit before I get too carried away seating the glass into the butyl.
VERY light heat trying to soften up the butyl a tad so I can get it to come down a bit into the lower spots and seal.
Finally I just put the heat gun in the car and let it run until the car was up to 95F, then pushed the glass down. Still took a LOT of force, one arm hooked in the back window hole the other pushing down on the glass. No other way to get any leverage. Watch out for the hot brunette...
My last entry on back glass.. I promise!. I wish it looked that perfect in person.
Don't forget your rubber spacer blocks so it doesn't slip down over time.
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Well I've looked at a zillion pictures and it appears pending which assembly line, time of production, etc they may have been done both ways. Both of the center grills I have are black on the hump where they attach to the grill support and clean between the hump and the front face... which matches my OE headlight eyebrows where they are clean and just blacked out under the fenders. Others I've found are black all the way across on the top face and probably a better look. Some more to sleep on before I proceed...
I just went past the 900 hour mark on my end showard. I keep track of actual work time, mainly as a habit of how I do customer work. Not time IN the shop, time actually working on the car. If I added research time the count would be triple. Body and paint was ~ 1200 hours on top of that.
wayne where do these shields go,how do they attach to headlight area?
I studied few survivor Bees some time ago regarding the grille and bezel paint scheme. I came to the conclusion that they were painted by the factory like the ones you have installed in this picture.
Paint fully across the headlight ring top and then the unblended full step back and just across the attach lip on the center section??
