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New bullet for the "Brick"

theman440 said:
Thanks for the tip - what did you use for the snap ring, is there a p/n?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
If I remember correctly I think it was a 904 .060" clutch drum snap ring. It was stretched rather than its original intended use (compressed). For sure it was a factory Mopar part I had laying around.
Doug
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As long as your going light. Cut an additional groove in the output shaft. Then you can trim the park gear way down and remove the governer.
Doug
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More brake progress, I did some measuring and leaning on my past mechanical drawing experience had these brackets made for adapting the Mustang disc brakes. they will bolt on with the axle end studs and also be welded.

IMG_20190118_140850957.jpg
 
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One of the other things I wanted to do on this project was to clean up the wiring. I had quite a few wires passing through various holes in the firewall. Since this is a race car and many of the original wiring circuits aren't being used, I'm going to reroute them through the bulkhead connector. There are a few spots/circuits in the connector that were never used and a some that have been eliminated such as the A/C, horn, windshield washers ETC. The bulkhead connector uses Packard 56 series terminals - I bought some on Ebay

IMG_20190122_202522024.jpg

.
The wires from the wiper motor go the upper row of circuits on the upper connector on the bulkhead. The lower row of circuits are all now empty or eliminated. I'm going to use those spots for some of my rerouted wires.

Blue wire for water temp sensor circuit.
Brown for trans temp sensor circuit.
Black/Wht for oil pressure sender circuit.
Yel/Grn for alternator "charge" indicator light circuit.


IMG_20190118_162104128.jpg

IMG_20190121_192226221.jpg


The pink wire coming thru the firewall and hanging down is the water pump/fan positive circuit. It will be rerouted thru the bulkhead connector too. It will use the "M" spot on the center connector on the bulkhead - see the pink coiled wire around the bulkhead connector.

IMG_20190122_200238009.jpg


`
 
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This weekend I finished up the Idiot light panel - I used an old Dymo Embossing Tapewriter to make the labels for the lights and painted the panel Wrinkle Black. I Also finished wiring it with a 6-pin connector. Think it came out pretty good.

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Idiot light panel installed - I decided to clean up the dash before I installed it then I noticed how crappy looking the dash knobs and bezels were, so I cleaned them up too.

IMG_20190217_190751910.jpg

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I used CLR, tooth paste and a tooth brush to clean all the knobs & bezels - not show quality but much nicer than before -

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Radio knobs - Left after, right before

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Update,

Fabricated RT Rear brake adapter bracket installed and caliper mounted to check fitment - looks good. Now to do the other side, please excuse all the dirt & dust. I promise I'll clean it all up before final assembly.

IMG_20190328_184436252.jpg
 
Got some more parts in -

Custom solid roller from Hughes Engines, springs, cups, keepers and tool steel retainers. Didn't save any money on this stuff . . . I've bought whole cars for less money.

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While I'm waiting on the block machine work I have been working on the rear end. After mocking up the left side caliper I shipped the axles back to Moser to get 'em drilled and tapped for 5/8 studs. Heavy car + lots of Power - just don't want to have problems.



Locating and welding on the brake hose brackets.



Bending up rt side hardline - I screwed up the left side so I need to get some more 3/16 line.

 
I got the axles back from Moser last week. Tonight I got around to installing the 5/8 studs.

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Got my new radiator and started mocking it up. My biggest concern was if I was going to have to re-make the cooler lines.

IMG_20190613_203152406.jpg


I got lucky this time - all I had to do to make the drivers side line fit was to tweek the bends some.

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For the passenger side I had to shorten it -

IMG_20190613_203217711.jpg


I cut and re-flared the line. These hydraulic flaring tools are awesome!

IMG_20190613_210813236.jpg


Done, next is recovery tank and electric fan.

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Also - I had to buy an 11/16 drill bit to enlarge the rotor stud holes for the bigger studs.

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