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Replacing pinion seal on 8.75 rear end

In all honesty, you could just air gun the nut and then set torque wrench to 240-250 and tighten till you hear the click. Done!
 
Thanks for all the replies. I got a Napa seal. Diff is out of the car on jack stands... I don't think there's any way I'm going to get that nut off unless I put the tires on and have them make contact with the ground... or wait till I have it in the car. Might try the tire method later today, we'll see what happens.
 
A large pipe wrench on the yoke. A heavy cloth in the jaw so you don't ding the yoke, if you care.
 
As I showed in post #5 and Kryslerkid showed in post #11. You shouldn't be letting the pinon teeth be your holder.
 
In all honesty you all are beating a dead horse to death.do what 5.7 Hemi said impact the nut off chisel the seal out impact the nut back on and be done with it.
 
oneowner said:
In all honesty you all are beating a dead horse to death.do what 5.7 Hemi said impact the nut off chisel the seal out impact the nut back on and be done with it.
Click to expand...

Wish you were around when I removed my last one. They don't make a impact that strong that I have seen. Maybe heavy equipment, not a 1/2" drive. I used a 1/2" strong bar with a three foot piece of pipe and had to stand on it before it broke loose. Factory torque is minimum 240 lbs.
 
dadsbee said:
As I showed in post #5 and Kryslerkid showed in post #11. You shouldn't be letting the pinon teeth be your holder.
Click to expand...
Forgot about earlier posts because he said it needed to be on tires. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.:lol:
 
khryslerkid said:
Wish you were around when I removed my last one. They don't make a impact that strong that I have seen. Maybe heavy equipment, not a 1/2" drive. I used a 1/2" strong bar with a three foot piece of pipe and had to stand on it before it broke loose. Factory torque is minimum 240 lbs.
Click to expand...
Did mine recently, tried with 1/2" breaker bar and 30" helper. Would've broken it, ordered 3/4" drive socket and used my 3/4" breaker bar and the helper bar.
 
oldkimmer said:
If ur impact won’t take the pinion nut off, it’s a pretty sad impact. Kim
Click to expand...
The axle was free of the body and I didn't have anything to put resistance on the axles while I was impacting it. I have access to a lift (not full time sadly), so I'm going to throw the rear diff into the car, put it on the lift, and get a big *** breaker bar and go to work.
 
I've used the buddy method of having someone in the car pushing on the brakes, floor jack under a breaker bar for muscle. Make sure the car is on the ground so the tires help hold it. When you get the yoke off, clean it and press on a speedi sleeve[ unless you replace the yoke] to cover any groove worn in. If the grove is deep, put some JB Weld in it and let it harden before putting sleeve on. Sand excess down so only groove is covered. Clean off the splines of both the yoke and the pinion shaft then apply liquid teflon sealer to splines of both when you put it back together. The sealer will prevent any gear oil from seeping out from the splines. Fresh loctite on the nut and tighten it down.
 
Okay so I got the new seal in, yoke sleeve saver, pinion nut and washer all in. Tightening it down to 240 ft/lb not even close and it is way tight. Like too tight to turn by hand. I can’t budge it. Didn’t see a shim in there when I took the yoke out, just a bearing. Should I back off a bit till it turns freely? Kind of stuck here
 
Post a pic.
Back the nut completely off, pull the yoke off. Is the speedi sleeve all the way down on the yoke?
 
6-CDABB46-519-D-46-A2-9292-79297-BE3-E1-DF.jpg


A1-FD973-D-119-D-497-D-B465-57964-E7-B021-D.jpg


That’s some gasket maker at the bottom of the threads to seal up behind the washer. It was on there when I took the nut and washer off. Sleeve is all the way down on the yoke. I had it in a vise
 
Don't know why it would change, mine didn't. The preload shims are behind the front bearing, if you didn't remove it can't have lost a shim. Does yoke turn when nut is snug?
 
Yes nut is snug now. A little on the very snug side. Nowhere near 240 but the yoke spins freely and there’s no forward/reverse play in the yoke
 
I'd wait for more opinions before pulling seal and bearing and adding shims. Just doesn't make sense to me, same yoke correct?
 
Man, after doing this stuff for over 30 years, I've never ever worried about hitting that damn high torque figure! IF you have the 89 case, mark the nut and get it back to where it was or you'll take the chance of crushing the sleeve a bit more and making the bearings too tight. On the others, do the same and do a 'feel' test to see if it still turns like it did before. Main thing is that you do not want to be too loose or too tight but on the 89, if you end up too tight, the crush sleeve probably got crushed some more and then you need to either shim it or start over and yes, you can shim it. If that happens, shimming it is a crutch but it works. That high torque stuff is for new set ups with new bearings but even then, I don't even try to hit it on the 41's and 42's and all 89's I do gets the crush sleeve eliminator kit...ie, solid spacer and then use shims to set preload. Just my opinion from an old fart that's been there done that.
 
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