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Bellhousing alignment

pjenjen

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I have a Lakewood bell housing on a 440. Using a Hemi 4 spd trans. Runout is .006 inches. Is it worth chasing six thousandths? I've seen on here that runout should be .010" or less.

Thank you
 
Should be ok....but being a machinist, I like it closer lol. Also, if your indicator post is kinda small, you have to think about sag.
 
.006" is good. I might try for better if I'm using the pilot bearing rather than the bushing. I believe they are less forgiving on the input shaft if they lock up/fail.
 
I'd try to smooch it around a little closer, you can always seem to find a burr or some clearance some where without much of a fuss.
 
That should be 0.006" total (TIR). The actual correction should be only 0.003"
 
Should be good as long as not using a modern transmission with tapered bearing for input that requires a pilot bearing (instead of pilot bushing).
 
That should be 0.006" total (TIR). The actual correction should be only 0.003"
Getting .012 on the dial indicator, so my actual runout is .006". So I can use .007" offset dowels. I know it's only $30-40 but is it really worth it.
 
I feel that the closer to perfection a vehicle is built, the better (faster) it's going to run. Will .006 make a difference on the drag strip? That I can't answer but I do remember factory built street freaks....cars that ran exceptionally superior to other like models and we just figured that everything came together just right like it was built in a perfect world. They were rare but they were out there. Then you had the perfect lemon where nothing came together right. My dad had a 69 New Yorker that was almost like that. The 440 in it ran excellent and I mean excellent but nothing else in the car worked very well at all. The rear end wasted wheel bearings and the trans gave up the ghost in less than a year and not even going to talk about the rest of the car. Man, even the radio was crap! If your car was me building it, I'd go for the gusto and stick in the dowels.....
 
Getting .012 on the dial indicator, so my actual runout is .006". So I can use .007" offset dowels. I know it's only $30-40 but is it really worth it.
Total runout is 0.012", so the correction would be 0.006" in the opposite direction of the point of maximum runout. 0.007" would theoretically leave you with 0.002" total runout, so would be acceptable if that was the closest you could get.
 
Total runout is 0.012", so the correction would be 0.006" in the opposite direction of the point of maximum runout. 0.007" would theoretically leave you with 0.002" total runout, so would be acceptable if that was the closest you could get.
And I would say that .002 wouldn't be a bad thing at all....
 
For the transmission you're using .012" is too much. I'd fix it. Also make sure you have the block plate in there and all the bolts in the block too. Just like it is to be run.
 
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