VCode Cam/Tranny Recommendations?

So after a hibernation of many years my 70 VCode Charger R/T is being restored. The original drive-train was long gone when I bought the car and had been replaced with a 440/727 from a 70/71 Imperial, however the original six-pack manifold/carb setup and exhaust manifolds remained. Recently my buddy and I opened up this setup for a complete rebuild. The block/crankshaft/pistons, etc. are going to be delivered to a machine shop for the typical things to be done on a rebuild. The issues that my buddy and I keep going back and forth over are: 1) Camshaft/timing gear choices . . . and 2) Transmission upgrade. This will be a driven car (no trailer queen and also not a dragstrip car) so the idea of a cam the does the loping 'wompity/wompity' is not something I want and my buddy agrees, but feels that a normal cam setup is . . . . boring. Same with the transmission. I have a 70 Polara convertible (383/727) that shifts silky smooth. I like that in a Polara but in a Charger R/T? I don't mind feeling the shift points and admittedly I'll probably have my foot in it once in a while. Thoughts from those who have gone before??

4 gears and 3 pedals!!

Ah yes . . . that was also part of our discussions but I'm firm in keeping the Torqueflite! Plus my buddy has a 4 Speed Dart that I might be able to get some seat time in.

1) I'm a die hard 4 speed guy but you have to chose. You're going to get 50-50% answers on here.
2) I do not recommend a gear drive. Go with a timing chain. I had a gear drive on my Roadrunner and HATED IT. Way too loud and annoying. I want to hear the engine/exhaust not that horrible whine.
3) There are so many choices today to give you plenty of power and just a little lump more than a stock cam would. It really does depend on what the rest of your car has (The trans you do chose, if you chose an auto then what converter, the rear gears, what you ultimately want to do with the car). And I would go with a hydraulic cam for ease of maintenance too.

Plenty of guys on here with good driver setups in similar cars to yours, and with how easy people can post videos you can hear the car too!

Good luck Dude.

So to go a little further into this. The car currently has a 3.23 suregrip in it, but after riding in my buddies 440 70 charger with 3.55's, I may go that route at some point.

The car will be 98% street car with maybe a track day once in my lifetime. I drive over 50 miles round trip on the lonely interstates to work, so I dont want the engine winding out on those drives. This will mostly be a cruiser with some stop sign/light pulls and the occasional entrance ramp romp.

The car will have the 727 auto. The question becomes what all we want to do with it. Currently we are of the opinion to at least upgrade it to the high performance internals this car would originally come with. Since it currently is only the standard duty trans. The idea of a mild shift kit was tossed around because if my buddy ever gets behind the wheel he will make sure the 6 pack functions properly and he wants to make sure the trans can handle his right foot.

We are aware depending what all goes into the engine a converter change may be necessary.

We do want to keep the lifters hydraulic.

We would just like to be pointed in some particular part numbers for cams, what that would do for the car, and what other changes would come with that. Also what pistons would be a good choice since this block will need to be bored.

The HP motor (both 383 & 440) style 727 works well, firm, but not "hard" shifts, with good durability. If it was mine I'd build one with 4 disc front clutch drum, red Raybestos clutches, 10 front clutch springs, red Raybestos front band w/ 3.8 lever, both inner & outer springs in front servo, stock rear clutch & rear band. I prefer 4 pinion plantaries front & rear, 4 pinion front w/ 3 rear is OK. I'd get a new aftermarket valve body from one of the name brand trans builders. Modern cams have a wider lobe separation for less "lope" & faster ramps, still good power. I'd use a 3 bolt cam w/Cloyes style full roller chain. Good luck.

Thanks 66Satellite47! Agreed on the durability of the current setup and your recommendations will help in 'upping' this to what it should be for this car.

Well, If were doing your car with your money, I would try to not leave any more power on the table than I needed. Get someone's lighter 2.065" compression height pistons (Icon, Diamond.....), 440 Source H beam rods (they are lighter than many others), Stealth heads (have the valve grind freshened-up and valves back cut) , and something like a Bob K. cam. Shoot for zero deck and 10.2 to 10.5:1 CR. This will work well with cast iron exhaust manifolds, stock converter, and your 3.23s. Get 2 1/2" mandrel bent exhaust and a good performance muffler.

Have a competent tranny shop install a TG2 kit and install a Max. Wedge governor kit.

It will be an honest 425 hp, maybe more, run 12s at the track at about 110 mph in full street trim. But drive like it's stock.