Running HOT

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

72 440 Holley 4bbl mech. fuel pump. 4 spd
I replaced the radiator since the car sat for 24 years and it didn't look very good inside.
Original shroud fits perfect with new rad.
Original 7 blade fan. still moves a lot of air.
New upper and lower hoses. Lower hose is the ridged flexible type since I couldn't find one with a spring inside of it. To keep it from collapsing.
New water pump
New thermostat. Checked it in boiling water and it opens at 182.
1 inch spacer under the carb.
It gets so hot that it will not fire back up after a short drive. When I squirt some fuel down the carb it just vaporizes. I have to wait for a good hour before it's cool enough to add fuel. I live in SW Florida where we might get down to 45 degrees 5 times a year and 80 degrees and above the rest of the year.
Thinking of adding an electric fuel pump to help but would like to get the temp down.
I have read the timing might be off. ( but it runs good )
Can someone please advise where I should set the timing.
Or any suggestions on what else I can look for. Thanks

Dennis H · Jan 29, 2019

Looks like you are doing all of the right stuf. With a laser temp gun, what are the actual numbers? I had restart problems due to ethanol boiling at round 172.

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

Dennis H said:
Looks like you are doing all of the right stuf. With a laser temp gun, what are the actual numbers? I had restart problems due to ethanol boiling at round 172.

I checked the other day with an IR thermometer but don't remember the #'s . I will fire it up and let it run for a while and record them.
One other thing I forgot to mention is that it does have electronic ignition.
That thing on the passenger side manifold to get the temps up in cold weather. The spring is busted is it possible that it is closed.
Thanks

khryslerkid · Jan 29, 2019

Check your timing!

oldbee · Jan 29, 2019

Timing usually 34-38* (total)w/o vacuum adv. hooked up. Wire the heat riser open if stays shut.

dla4567 · Jan 29, 2019

If the radiator was dirty, then so is the block. I would definitely flush the radiator until you’re sure it’s clean.

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

Dennis H said:
Looks like you are doing all of the right stuf. With a laser temp gun, what are the actual numbers? I had restart problems due to ethanol boiling at round 172.

It figures that today we are at 62 degrees so it didn't get as hot as last time.
Here's what I got today. After 40 mins idle and a few revs to try and get the temp up.

while running
intake 178 , drivers exhaust manifold 430 , pass exhaust manifold 469 ,driver side head 160 , pass side head 157 , thermostat housing 163 , water pump 170 , water temp 130.

after 5 min cool down
intake 173 , drivers exhaust manifold 238 , pass exhaust manifold 315 , drivers side head 169 ,
pass side head 153 , thermostat housing 173 , water pump 181 , water temp 162.

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

dla4567 said:
If the radiator was dirty, then so is the block. I would definitely flush the radiator until you’re sure it’s clean.

I've done this 3 times first couple of times there was a little residue or junk in the drain out. The last time I did it all came out looking very clean.

BeepBeepRR · Jan 29, 2019

Keep in mind an air pocket can cause problems too. Make sure to burp the system.

Quoted from another site, to get most of the air out when you put in the t-stat. Before you put it in fill the rad up till the coolant rises to the top of the gooseneck in the pump housing just below where the t-stat sits, then put in the stat, let the sealant dry for 10 min, then fill up the rad the rest of the way. Drive the car w/ heater blowing. It will self purge , but doing it this way will get rid of all air pockets, then all you have is the small amount under the stat that wil purge out when the stat opens. then let it cool and top off the rad, all done.

Another post about it HERE..

dla4567 · Jan 29, 2019

That doesn’t sound to hot. You might want to check your initial timing at idle (disconnect advance). Mine gives me starting issues past 21 degrees. Some may even have issues past 15 degrees.

dla4567 · Jan 29, 2019

I guess I should ask, what are your starting issues? Won’t crank, or will crank fine but not start?

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

BeepBeepRR said:
Keep in mind an air pocket can cause problems too. Make sure to burp the system.

Quoted from another site, to get most of the air out when you put in the t-stat. Before you put it in fill the rad up till the coolant rises to the top of the gooseneck in the pump housing just below where the t-stat sits, then put in the stat, let the sealant dry for 10 min, then fill up the rad the rest of the way. Drive the car w/ heater blowing. It will self purge , but doing it this way will get rid of all air pockets, then all you have is the small amount under the stat that wil purge out when the stat opens. then let it cool and top off the rad, all done.

Another post about it HERE..

Heater core is bypassed until I can get it rebuilt. I was told by someone on this site to drill 2 1/8th holes on the outer edge of the thermostat to purge the system. I did that. I don't think it could be an air pocket.
It's been an hour since shut down and it wont start poured some gas down the carb and I can hear it gurgling. Temp inside the carb is only 117. WTF

PurpleBeeper · Jan 29, 2019

OK, the good news....your engine is not running hot (based on all your IR gun measurements)… at least at idle. You might want to drive the car & take the same measurements + maybe measure the temperature of the carburetor fuel bowl.

It sounds like you might have TWO common problems....1. Vapor lock 2. Starter getting hot

1. Vapor lock - I'm not positive you have this problem? In vapor lock, the fuel boils, usually in the carburetor & the engine usually sputters and/or dies & won't fire up. It normally doesn't happen after shutting the engine off, but I suppose it could. To cure that, you'd replace your 1" carburetor spacer with a 1" phenolic (aka cardboard/plastic stuff) spacer to insulate the carburetor from the heat. There are also specialty anti-vapor lock carburetor spacers.

2. Starter getting hot - I think you have this problem. It is especially bad with headers, but can happen with stock exhaust manifolds. The car would start/run/drive just fine, but as the car is driven, the heat from the exhaust "heat soaks" the starter. After you shut the engine off & try to start it up again, it "acts" like the battery is dead & the engine barely turns over at all. This can be cured by putting some heat insulation around your starter and/or putting header wrap on your exhaust (at least in the starter area).
HOPE THIS HELPS!

EDIT --> I just saw your post. Well, fuel isn't boiling at 117F (not much anyway), so that "gurgling" is normal & don't let that throw you off. You don't have vapor lock, your starter is just getting "heat soaked" would be my guess.

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

dla4567 said:
I guess I should ask, what are your starting issues? Won’t crank, or will crank fine but not start?

Cranks good will not re-start after running for a while. 30 mins or so. No fuel in carb.

Don Frelier · Jan 29, 2019

Perhaps you do have a problem with the heat riser stuck shut.
Are you sure there is no fuel in the carb?
Do a spark check after hot sitting, you may have a bad coil and it won't give a good spark after it gets hot.

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

Don Frelier said:
Perhaps you do have a problem with the heat riser stuck shut.
Are you sure there is no fuel in the carb?
Do a spark check after hot sitting, you may have a bad coil and it won't give a good spark after it gets hot.

That's something I haven't tried yet if so I will get a new coil and try again.

matthon · Jan 29, 2019

I had the same issue years ago, ran great, would not start after it warmed up.
It was ignition related, not the coil, the magnetic pick-up maybe. Whatever it was, it had a crack in it.
It would expand with heat, continue to run, shut it down and it wouldn't start until cooler again.

tonysrt · Jan 29, 2019

Did you put a new radiator cap on? A friend had overheating problems and a new cap solved his problem. Was the motor recently rebuilt? Tight clearances also create a lot of heat.

ITS A 72 RR · Jan 29, 2019

tonysrt said:
Did you put a new radiator cap on? A friend had overheating problems and a new cap solved his problem. Was the motor recently rebuilt? Tight clearances also create a lot of heat.

newer radiator cap at 16 psi and no on the rebuild. Only 72 K on original motor

Johnpat · Jan 29, 2019

Before you buy a new coil,when you,re
having the restart problem pull the coil
wire & hold it near something.
Crank it over &look at the spark if any,should
be a blue tinted color,not orange.

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