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Super shifter in a 64?

Steve009

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I have been trying to find a hurst super shifter for my 64 Plymouth sf. All I can find are 1965+ and most are “competition plus” models. Do they make super shifters with the straight linkage rods for 1964 b bodies? My linkage is all worn out and I figured it’s time to upgrade. A link or advice would be much appreciated. I’d also not like to use the short shifter rod that I see in some of the catalogues and swap to the longer stock hurst shifter rod. Is that as simple as undoing the two bolts and swapping?
 
I'll NEVER give up my PB shifter!!

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Is the S/S the one that has a bracket that moves shifter up a to the back? Seen guy use heim joints, steel hydraulic tubing with nuts welded on each end.
 
Is the S/S the one that has a bracket that moves shifter up a to the back? Seen guy use heim joints, steel hydraulic tubing with nuts welded on each end.

i really dont know. all i know is the super shifters come with the straight rods and all the competition plus ones i can find are curved. I cant find a super shifter setup for a 64 with straight rods.
 
The shifter in the ebay ad is not a Ram Rod Shifter.
That is the Super Shifter 3
They have the extra "red" reverse lock out lever.
Really didn't look at shifter wanted to show bracket. Seen shifter with bracket and with straight rods $600 and up. Think buying bracket and making your own rods easier. If you want rev- lockout you need the right shifter (as you said) or an add on kit. Those add on kits NOS on ebay are getting $300+. To make one yourself wouldn't be to hard?? Wouldn't be a nice unless your a good at fabrication.
 
009, you can pickup quite a bit of geometry buy working your clutch and shifter linkage by modifying all parts involved and buy taking the slop out of all parts, cutting and welding are required, I shorten the clutch pedal about an inch or less to minamize the throw distance and I modify the torque arm to be 90* to the upper clutch rod and lower clutch rod 90* also. Have a helper actuate the clutch a few times to find center of the throw and saw cut the shift fork to find mid position of the clutch throw to make it 90* also and weld it back together The shifter is the same, first off I shorten my shifter handle a little and cut/reweld/reshape it to fit my body and arm position and you can also space your shifter body further off center a little towards the driver as well as raise the shifter body some to further shorten the shifter length. the shift levers on the trans need to be correct p/n and not all wallered out. You can also get the Hurst bushings on both ends of the shift rods. Making shift rods that are more strait with heim joints on the ends as well as spacing the shifter rods in and or out for a straight/lateral movement. These old units can take a lot of mods and work way better than factory settings. Its all about XYZ movement and or parallel and perpendicular adherence. With shifter in neutral you should be 90* on the trans levers as well as the shifter levers. clean up all extra length of rods levers etc. that's not needed. And a lot of 30 wt. and good hardware including rebuild the torque arm bushings. Another place to pick up some positive geo. is that rubbery bushing/damper system at the end of the lower clutch rod, I take all of that crap off to reduce yet more wasted movement but you need some end play here too. Not to big of deal, just a little time and ingineuity. Makes a heck of a difference. In my world I make a lot modifications I guess.
 
I'm a PB fan too having the stock set up in my '63. Wouldn't give it up much as I like a 4-speed manual. Remembering the drag legends of the day when buttons were around and a ride in my Uncle's new '64 one night as he ran through the PB's was a hook for me to someday have an old Mopar with this set up. Have had my Plymouth 23 years now.
 
009, you can pickup quite a bit of geometry buy working your clutch and shifter linkage by modifying all parts involved and buy taking the slop out of all parts, cutting and welding are required, I shorten the clutch pedal about an inch or less to minamize the throw distance and I modify the torque arm to be 90* to the upper clutch rod and lower clutch rod 90* also. Have a helper actuate the clutch a few times to find center of the throw and saw cut the shift fork to find mid position of the clutch throw to make it 90* also and weld it back together The shifter is the same, first off I shorten my shifter handle a little and cut/reweld/reshape it to fit my body and arm position and you can also space your shifter body further off center a little towards the driver as well as raise the shifter body some to further shorten the shifter length. the shift levers on the trans need to be correct p/n and not all wallered out. You can also get the Hurst bushings on both ends of the shift rods. Making shift rods that are more strait with heim joints on the ends as well as spacing the shifter rods in and or out for a straight/lateral movement. These old units can take a lot of mods and work way better than factory settings. Its all about XYZ movement and or parallel and perpendicular adherence. With shifter in neutral you should be 90* on the trans levers as well as the shifter levers. clean up all extra length of rods levers etc. that's not needed. And a lot of 30 wt. and good hardware including rebuild the torque arm bushings. Another place to pick up some positive geo. is that rubbery bushing/damper system at the end of the lower clutch rod, I take all of that crap off to reduce yet more wasted movement but you need some end play here too. Not to big of deal, just a little time and ingineuity. Makes a heck of a difference. In my world I make a lot modifications I guess.

I have to say I’m am no where near a good enough welder/fabricator for this kind of work. Would love to learn one day but cutting and rewelding would end up a disaster for me.
 
Just a thought for you, if you come across a Mr. Gasket shifter latch onto it for your car. I had one of those on my Duster in the late 70's when I swapped the 4 speed in to replace the 3. Mr. G's unit were a better design, to me and some others, plus they used 7/16" straight rods, except for reverse, that were way better than the 3/8" units on Hurst's stuff.
 
Just a thought for you, if you come across a Mr. Gasket shifter latch onto it for your car. I had one of those on my Duster in the late 70's when I swapped the 4 speed in to replace the 3. Mr. G's unit were a better design, to me and some others, plus they used 7/16" straight rods, except for reverse, that were way better than the 3/8" units on Hurst's stuff.

You think they would also use straight rods for the b body? Similar to your Duster?
 
I think they started in about mid/late 1964.
A few of the Ram Charge cars and very few production car used the 4 spd with floor shifter in 64. I don't think a Chrysler trans was used in any of them. Am I wrong?
 
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