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512 builds.. post em if you got em!

mopar_chuck said:
With that being said, how much $$$ do you stroker guys have in your builds? I hate to ask, but there is always a difference between the estimated cost VS the actual cost..... just like everything else lol.
Click to expand...

I am still in the building stage of my stroker. A little more to go before the engine is done and ready to do the small block to big block swap. I am using the Source 440-512-5060 kit. Comes out to 505CI in a .030 over 440 RB block. Doing a small block to big block swap in a 72 Charger using a 46RH overdrive trans that's already installed and working in the car.

I put together an initial estimate of $10,000 for the engine build, and $3,000 for the swap. So far, I have seen many cost increases as I buy parts compared to there prices when I estimated the build. Plan for that.

I have spent about $8500 so far collecting parts and machine shop costs. Where it stands so far is;

Short block built at the machine shop, machine work done, rotating assembly installed, cam bearings and plugs installed, short block ready for engine assembly, . Machine shop bill was $1100. I sent them the 440 Source kit which cost me $2300.

I still need to purchase the TF PP240 heads, HR cam and valve train, pulley kit which I plan to use a serpentine system, carb or EFI system, radiator, and hood modifications since the air cleaner will be above the hood after the swap.

I think my initial cost estimate of $13000 may be a little short now. Doing most of the labor myself helps. If I do go EFI that will add an additional $1500 over my estimate.

My advice is to lay it out on paper, or a spreed sheet like Excell which I used. Make sure the estimate is within your budget, and you will be much happier. :thumbsup:
 
Paul_G said:
pulley kit which I plan to use a serpentine system
Click to expand...
If we've covered this, I apologize in advance.
This is the serpentine system manufacturer I am most inclined to go with:
I may start with the alternator only setup as that is my current status, or if funds allow, I may add Air Conditioning and power steering at that time. The black diamond look I think will complement the krinkle black and brushed aluminum valve covers I have.
20181130_120202.jpg

Screenshot_20181130-120446_Chrome.jpg

https://www.cvfracing.com/black-dia...ig-block-mopar-alternator-only-all-inclusive/
 
Paul_G said:
My advice is to lay it out on paper, or a spreed sheet like Excell which I used. Make sure the estimate is within your budget, and you will be much happier. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

This.

Determine the budget, make clear the goal, build the plan, execute.

Because I enjoy the building process, I do it slowly over about a year, and figure in my cash flow to fund the project as I go through the planned build period.
 
The pile of parts at my shop...
Probably putting aluminum caps on this one.
0280E3E1-7C6B-4E0E-947C-8CE7200B9DBF.jpeg
0EDA706B-0174-4D40-98CC-A0C6C67CFD27.jpeg
 
20190103_101843.jpg
20190103_101719.jpg
Just got my (casting date) Sept of 71 400 block apart. Planning to build it into a 512 over the next few months. Here are a few pics of the #2 and 3 main bearing supports.
 
20180801_140726.jpg
20180801_140701.jpg
View attachment 699969 Added to this block, I will be using parts from our 383 based 496 stroker, 4.25 inch Crankshaft, 6.535 rods, Milodon pan and dual feed pick up, new 4.375 flat top pistons, tight quench. I have Stage VI ported heads, and Stealths. Anticipated 13 to 1 C Ratio. Leaning towards the Stage VI heads, 75cc chambers. Tunnel Ram with dual 750 Holley dbl pumpers. This is the 68 Valiant it will be going into. Has a 496 now, with alot of leak down. Bad rings. Runs 11.10@118. Seems Slow, even for 5400 feet.
 
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Garys1969RR said:
View attachment 699975 View attachment 699976 View attachment 699969 Added to this block, I will be using parts from our 383 based 496 stroker, 4.25 inch Crankshaft, 6.535 rods, Milodon pan and dual feed pick up, new 4.375 flat top pistons, tight quench. I have Stage VI ported heads, and Stealths. Anticipated 13 to 1 C Ratio. Leaning towards the Stage VI heads, 75cc chambers. Tunnel Ram with dual 750 Holley dbl pumpers. This is the 68 Valiant it will be going into. Has a 496 now, with alot of leak down. Bad rings. Runs 11.10@118. Seems Slow, even for 5400 feet.
Click to expand...
If u gotta buy pistons anyway, why not go w/ the longest rod available ?/ less side loading on the cyl. walls, better rod angle, broader torque curve -------------
 
not so famous bob said:
If u gotta buy pistons anyway, why not go w/ the longest rod available ?/ less side loading on the cyl. walls, better rod angle, broader torque curve -------------
Click to expand...
Isn't the 6.535 the longest one you can use with the 4.25 stroke? Otherwise the piston pin is up into the oil ring area. Plus the skirt gets even shorter. Prob use these rods from the 496, since I already have them. I've never had the 496 apart, just assuming they are the 6.535 rod since that is a common one. Going to cannibalize the 496, and use the bottom end in the 512, along with a few other parts. Guess I'll have some used 4.280 pistons left over, with a 1.320 C Height.
 
20190203_114609.jpg
Ok, just starting my 512 build. First step is removing the 496 from the Valiant. Here are a few pics of that. Starting from a pretty good running motor.
20180116_165842.jpg

The valley pan pushed up against the bottom of the intake, due to excessive blow by. It was also pushing oil out some of the seals.
 
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This motor has nice roller rockers, 440 source i believe. They will be used in the 512, along with the roller
20190203_134446.jpg
cam, as they have been working Great! Pistons have about .010" clearance. A little more than i like. No wonder it wouldn't seal good!
20190203_134621.jpg
 
I have a low deck 512 heading to the dyno this month. It is a pump gas street type engine with a hyd roller cam but it should make close to 600 hp with dyno headers.
DSC_3301 (Large).JPG
 
Andy, I noticed the small air filters on the valve covers. Do you get much pressure in the crankcase with your builds? Over the years, I have had a 496, a 383 and a 413 blow the valley pan upwards. The 383 had nitrous on it. Is this due to blow by past the rings, not enough venting, or do big blocks just build alot pressure in the crankcase? But I never had a problem with the 451 I built. What causes this? Not enough venting, too much ring leakage, or a combination of things? Thanks
 
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andyf said:
I have a low deck 512 heading to the dyno this month. It is a pump gas street type engine with a hyd roller cam but it should make close to 600 hp with dyno headers.
View attachment 715325
Click to expand...
Please share the results once you get it dyno'd. What's the rpm range on the camshaft? I started this thread as a tool for me to see if I can accomplish my goals without boost, builds like yours are what I'm looking for.
Wookie316 said:
Here you go. Made 797 on the dyno.

View attachment 715420 View attachment 715421
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Very impressive but I doubt it's friendly in the low cruising rpm's lol. 797 hp is more than I need or at least more than any street tire can ever use. Nice job
 
Garys1969RR said:
Isn't the 6.535 the longest one you can use with the 4.25 stroke? Otherwise the piston pin is up into the oil ring area. Plus the skirt gets even shorter. Prob use these rods from the 496, since I already have them. I've never had the 496 apart, just assuming they are the 6.535 rod since that is a common one. Going to cannibalize the 496, and use the bottom end in the 512, along with a few other parts. Guess I'll have some used 4.280 pistons left over, with a 1.320 C Height.
Click to expand...
PISTON PIN IS NOT IN THE OIL RING WITH 7.1 RODS--------------------4.250 STROKER . R/B .
 
not so famous bob said:
PISTON PIN IS NOT IN THE OIL RING WITH 7.1 RODS--------------------4.250 STROKER . R/B .
Click to expand...
Even if they are does it even matter? My 456 stroker using a 440 crank and rods has the pin intersecting the oil ring and has been perfectly fine, just uses a support rail under the oil ring.
 
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