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For the Love for my Father, My 69 GTX Restoration

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747mopar said:
The insulation actually holds up good enough on those, that's crazy! So how do you bring the color back to life on old rubber?
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There will be an attempt to bring it back to life......Even when restored and if turned out well....I probably will not put it on the car.......The original cables had 3 colored wires, black, dark red and a lighter red......

There have been people that took original cables and replaced then ends with new parts off of reproduction cables.......IMHO that defeats the purpose of keeping it original and makes it a hybrid of the original....

We will see if my process works or not....stay tuned my friend...
 
moparnation74 said:
Lets us talk a bit about the proportioning valve....I searched high and low for an NOS unit and had no luck whatsoever. There are not many people that are able to rebuild these units properly.

The company that was able to do this rebuild it was Brake and Equipment Warehouse
http://www.brakeandequipment.com
If you do call you have to select the "Shop" option

They also rebuilt my MC and WC's...They resleeved them with stainless steel sleeves and rebuild them with the proper components. Another thing they offer is rebounding brake shoes. Either riveted or glued like the originals. I sent them the original frames for a spare set to rebound and they turned out amazing. The cleaning process they do is phenomenal...When I get to the WC's and MC you will see how well the steel looks.

So below is the original proportion valve from the GTX. The car is manual 11" drum. Has the correct "W" stamp for the manufacturer Westinghouse and the 2 patent numbers. As you can see around the bolt hole area a special locking bolt was used with teeth to grab, they wrenched them pretty tight as you can see. The date code is on the back side and it is stamped 2818 for 281st day of 68 which coordinates with the late 68 build date of my GTX. The two o rings are the old ones and the copper cones go into the four small line holes for a more proper seal...and you do not have to wrench the crap out of them to seal. Lastly, I shined the unit up with 0000 steel wool and applied a corrosion inhibitor called Boeshield T9 and that is used on all of my bare metal parts....
View attachment 404772
There is the valve prior to removal.....
View attachment 404773 View attachment 404774 View attachment 404778
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Where did you find information out about how to decipher the date code on a proportioning valve? I have a 68 Charger built January 8th. My P valve doesn't have any part numbers on the bracket, only we small "w". On the back of the block it has the small "w" followed by N-325 7. Based on your information that would put the P valve build date of Tuesday November 21, 1967,
 
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Brian Gegner said:
Where did you find information out about how to decipher the date code on a proportioning valve? I have a 68 Charger built January 8th. My P valve doesn't have any part numbers on the bracket, only we small "w". On the back of the block it has the small "w" followed by N-325 7. Based on your information that would put the P valve build date of Tuesday November 21, 1967,
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Brian

The prop valves are dated on the Epoch calendar format as with many parts. Based on your numbers and NO pictures provided, the 3257 coordinates to the date you looked up. The rule of thumb is that parts dated within 60 days of the actual build date are correct. So that date fits within the window.

The valve for my GTX is the original prop valve. I was the first to remove that and all the brake lines. They were original and unremoved from the car. With that being said. Awhile back when I was thumbing through about ten prop valves for a friend. 5 had the same format and 3 had similar to yours......The dates were all on the back of the brass housing.......just different vendors...

Justin
 
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moparnation74 said:
Brian

The prop valves are dated on the Epoch calendar format as with many parts. Based on your numbers and NO pictures provided, the 3257 coordinates to the date you looked up. The rule of thumb is that parts dated within 60 days of the actual build date are correct. So that date fits within the window.

The valve for my GTX is the original prop valve. I was the first to remove that and all the brake lines. They were original and unremoved from the car. With that being said. Awhile back when I was thumbing through about ten prop valves for a friend. 5 had the same format and 3 had similar to yours......The dates were all on the back of the brass housing.......just different vendors...

Justin
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Came across this rear seat emblem from a member here......These are not common to find and especially in this shape. I always buy spare items when I come across them. The future of parts is very slim and you just may never know what you might need.

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Houston we have a problem......Looks like the restoration on the battery cable is not going to happen.....The end is not a concern but the red casing is not repairable......

One good thing is, I have an original for reference......

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Anthony.....Compsyn put me onto these lights...Thank you my friend....

They were on flee bay in two auctions and no one really bidder on them.......Scored them for a great price....

The 4000 high beam are a later bulb with the narrow flutes and not correct for 69......the 4001 low beam with the wide flute are correct. The only thing not correct are the dates but that's no biggie......

These bulbs are getting near impossible to find anymore and when they do I scoop them up.....

If anyone needs the 4000's....let me know.......

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Awesome story :thumbsup:
Keep up the great work. I'm glad you were able to find a restoration shop that has integrity. So may of them just want to bend you over. I was one of the many that has been ripped off so if I sound jaded its because I am... another reason why I'm just doing it myself. Just cant bring myself to trust anyone now.
 
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