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Engine break-in at the shop?

greycharger

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Machine shops in this town build your engine for you and send you home to break it in. Sometimes they are built for cars that loosened a bearing and that works, but sometimes the engine is started with a brand-new carburetion system or a carburetor of unknown functionality and it's my understanding that it's best not to shut down the engine during the critical cam/ lifter/ ring break-in period.
It's our baby when we wheel out of the shop, but why do the shops risk it? Even though it's not their problem, there will still be hard feelings as the customer has to buy a new cam and lifters. this is especially important in small towns where repeat business is critical.
How does it work in big cities where there is more than one or two machine shops? I assume some shops have dynos offering custom tuning and ready to run motors. Is there a cost factor that most people won't bear, even for a break-in on a stand only?
Also, what do shops charge to breaking in an engine? I'm going to ask at my shop, but wanted some background information.
 
I build all my engines myself. So I can't speak for most machine shops that build complete engines. The guy that does my machining said he never breaks one in unless the customer insist. When they leave his shop they're full of oil, break in additive and primed. He has a rinky-dink run stand for SBC's. But that's it. I've loaned him my roll around test stand (Mopar, Ford, GM) a couple times.
 
My guy machined the block and inspected the 440 source kit and the Trick flows. Installed cam bearings and fit cam. I asembled and will bring it to him for Dyno breakin and tuning. $500 plus some of his choice of breakin oil. Well worth it. Goes in tomorrow wish me luck.
 
Machine shops in this town build your engine for you and send you home to break it in. Sometimes they are built for cars that loosened a bearing and that works, but sometimes the engine is started with a brand-new carburetion system or a carburetor of unknown functionality and it's my understanding that it's best not to shut down the engine during the critical cam/ lifter/ ring break-in period.
It's our baby when we wheel out of the shop, but why do the shops risk it? Even though it's not their problem, there will still be hard feelings as the customer has to buy a new cam and lifters. this is especially important in small towns where repeat business is critical.
How does it work in big cities where there is more than one or two machine shops? I assume some shops have dynos offering custom tuning and ready to run motors. Is there a cost factor that most people won't bear, even for a break-in on a stand only?
Also, what do shops charge to breaking in an engine? I'm going to ask at my shop, but wanted some background information.
BEP performance.com out of Orange County California assembled and dynoed my motor they broke it in and dine out it on the stand pretty reputable outfit although it was all done by my previous owner I think they put a different car Bonnet when they break it in and I know it one of their own carbs go to their website maybe they can answer some questions for you
Machine shops in this town build your engine for you and send you home to break it in. Sometimes they are built for cars that loosened a bearing and that works, but sometimes the engine is started with a brand-new carburetion system or a carburetor of unknown functionality and it's my understanding that it's best not to shut down the engine during the critical cam/ lifter/ ring break-in period.
It's our baby when we wheel out of the shop, but why do the shops risk it? Even though it's not their problem, there will still be hard feelings as the customer has to buy a new cam and lifters. this is especially important in small towns where repeat business is critical.
How does it work in big cities where there is more than one or two machine shops? I assume some shops have dynos offering custom tuning and ready to run motors. Is there a cost factor that most people won't bear, even for a break-in on a stand only?
Also, what do shops charge to breaking in an engine? I'm going to ask at my shop, but wanted some background information.
 
I just had my 440 rebuild and break in/dyno tune. The engine builder didn't have a dyno so I brought it straight from their shop to the dyno. Cost me $550 for 5 hours. They use their own working carb for the break in and switched to my carb after. Then tune the engine after reading the dyno pulls.

Some engine builders do own their own dyno but the ones I spoke to do not include it for free.
 
Being strictly in the performance/custom build side of Engines, we machine/balance, assemble and dyno every Engine before it leaves, NO exceptions, and the customer must be present for their Engines dyno session.... again here, customers must arrange to attend.
No attendance for the Dyno arranged ? the engine doesn't leave, or gets dis-assembled and leaves as a Machine "package" of parts only, that they can assemble themselves and assume responsibility.
But for us to assemble.... we must dyno it,(we don't want any poop out there) and we want our customers to know what they've got when it leaves !

That said,
I dunno how a "run-in" stand would apply even remotely sufficient load for patent piston ring break-in on anything save maybe 5/64" Moly top ring with a minimal 280g plateau finish ?

All I can say is do the 30 minute Cam run-in on a stand if that's all people are concerned with, but best advised to very soon after get it in the Car so some light loads/decels can be applied on the rings, and assuming a carb/jetting tune that ain't slobber'in down the walls ?
which....
brings me to how in the f*** are people using engine run-in stands on things like Strokers with 1/16", 1/16", 3/16" hastings oil ring packs, and just what wall finishes are being used by shops that "assemble", and say to customers "here you go" on those assembled but never run engines ?
220 Chicken-ball de-glaze maybe ?
 
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Wow I for one am glad you chimed in I might have to p.m. you with some questions about my own engine I don't necessarily want to bore all the other viewers
 
Wow I for one am glad you chimed in I might have to p.m. you with some questions about my own engine I don't necessarily want to bore all the other viewers
You won't bore us! Please ask away...
 
Okay I'll start with I didn't know if it was still break in oil in my engine but it seemed clean so when I drained it I use it in another vehicle on old Mustang 302 is there a risk of using what maybe break in oil in an engine that already has oil in it that's well broken in as like add oil
 
Wait a minute B df6 you haven't posted yet on this thread but I guess it's too late you suckered me in
 
I'm learning also...
 
Okay I'll start with I didn't know if it was still break in oil in my engine but it seemed clean so when I drained it I use it in another vehicle on old Mustang 302 is there a risk of using what maybe break in oil in an engine that already has oil in it that's well broken in as like add oil

I'm not a professional engine guy..

Most break in oils have much different additives, and are not meant to be used for very many miles. Some say on the bottle, 300 or 500 miles. Break in oils don't have detergents in them, and so work better with the zinc additives for example.
I would not reuse break in oils, especially in an engine that is already run in.
 
I'm not a professional engine guy..

Most break in oils have much different additives, and are not meant to be used for very many miles. Some say on the bottle, 300 or 500 miles. Break in oils don't have detergents in them, and so work better with the zinc additives for example.
I would not reuse break in oils, especially in an engine that is already run in.
Thanks I'm really not even sure if it's break in oil or if the oil was changed but the original break in oil filter was on there the racing style oil filter which has greater flow but I'll not take any chances and change the oil in the Mustang for the original post here's a pic of what they charge to assemble and Dyno this 440

20190208_093722.jpg
 
Thanks I'm really not even sure if it's break in oil or if the oil was changed but the original break in oil filter was on there the racing style oil filter which has greater flow but I'll not take any chances and change the oil in the Mustang for the original post here's a pic of what they charge to assemble and Dyno this 440

View attachment 717110
And what the heck here's a picture of the results from the dino anybody know how to read these things I figured out the important numbers
 
Sorry gray charger didn't mean to hijack your thread

No, there's a lot of info here. We have found that running on a Dyno is preferable over a stand for braking in, and your post shows us what we might expect to see when hiring a Dyno break in service.
 
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