wyrmrider
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Torque Converter Question
- Thread starter Cyty Slykers
- Start date
oldbee
Well-Known Member
A couple ideas popped out at me, IF the flexplate is cracked you may be able to see it from a rust track coming down on the metal; also the stall speed is kinda dependent on torque output of the motor.
Cyty Slykers
Well-Known Member
Question... my motor was originally a 2 barrel 383 but and from my understanding those 2 barrels 727 tf tranny’s came with 11.75 torque converters but due to my engine upgrades as well as a 4 barrel carb does this mean that I now have to switch over to a 10.75 converter?
Cyty Slykers
Well-Known Member
This may be a stupid question but Will I have any fitting issues installing it since a 11 inch converter originally came with the transmission and now going to a 10 inch?
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Here's one more thought. I've heard numerous times, someone useing a thicker headed torque converter bolt than factory. They can hit on the block when rotated. They may not do it while turning by hand but when the engine is running and the flex plate moves in and out, they might be making contact and causing the rattle. Check the heads of the bolts for scars.
A loose or backed out bolt can do the same thing.
A loose or backed out bolt can do the same thing.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
what's not said is how does it drive with the converter it has now?
what's your stall speed and flash when you nail it from a stop
4 bbl carb or headers would not make much difference
cam and gears might
I'd like a benchmark before a converter change (and after)
what's your stall speed and flash when you nail it from a stop
4 bbl carb or headers would not make much difference
cam and gears might
I'd like a benchmark before a converter change (and after)
Cyty Slykers
Well-Known Member
I’m also trying to determine my crank type to ensure I’m getting the proper pieces. The 383 I had built cane out of a 69 C body and the crank number is 2206519 (steel), block 2468130, heads 2843906. on another site I saw that 383/400 2bbl has cast cranks and are externally balanced which have me confused lol. I’m clueless as to if my engine is internally or externally balanced and if I have a steel(forged) or cast crank and I know that this is a must for me to know while being in the process of purchasing a converter.
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Cyty Slykers
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I don’t have any additional gauges outside of my factor rallye cluster w/o tic tach but when I would drive it around it sounded as if it’s reving high at appx 45-55 mph.
oldbee
Well-Known Member
That they do,,,after yrs of overdrives in the cars nowadays!
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
just look at the dampner and see if it has any balance weights
IDK if any 383 were externally balanced but any balance shop should no forged 383's were externally balanced- only the 440 HP/gpacks with the heavy rods and cast 440's
IDK if any 383 were externally balanced but any balance shop should no forged 383's were externally balanced- only the 440 HP/gpacks with the heavy rods and cast 440's
Cyty Slykers
Well-Known Member
Gotcha!
Cyty Slykers
Well-Known Member
So this weekend I was able to install my transmission cooler as it was recommended my several members on this thread and installed a new torque converter 3K stall. After getting everything buttoned up I fired her up and dam she made the same rattling noise as before which confused the heck out of me. To make a long story short all this time it was the drivers side muffler that was making the rattling noise and not the other torque converter I had in there before lol smh...I still think it was a idea for me to from a 2k stall up to a 3K.
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