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help with distributor: limited vacuum, AL heads

C

Cary McCune

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Can anyone recommend a ready to run style distributor that will work with Edelbrock Performer Heads? I make very little vacuum, so I (assume) I need to run mechanical advance only and block out the vacuum advance function.

any help would be Wonderfull!

application is 69 charger 440
 
I have made a bunch of them for people. I actually run a Malory Unilite in mine all mechanical.
 
I think the factory style (or Mopar Performance / Direct Connection) type will clear those heads if I'm not mistaken.
 
Mopar style fits..I use a Firecore brand with Edelbrock heads for adjustability but I believe it's the same size as the OEM. Now if I'm remembering correctly, the only one that people have had fitment issues with is one of the MSD models..
 
#1: I original purchased the pertronix ready to run distributor. I would not clear the heads. Even trimming .125 from it.
#2:purchased the ready to run (factory style) with vacuum advance from Top Street Performance. Fits fine, but does not have vaccum block off ability, assumed it would not work.
#3: Purchased "pro series" ready to run, top street performance, has vacuum block off and fits, but it is so tall, it looks like a complete sideshow. I just cant stomach installing it.

Regarding the Mallory Unilight - that looks like it will work, do you need to run a MSD 6 ignition box? I was trying to save a few bucks and find a ready to run version for simplicity and cost.

Thanks for the help!
 
No the unilite is kind of like the petronix, two wires to the coil and you can set the advance pretty easily.
 
Cary McCune said:
#2:purchased the ready to run (factory style) with vacuum advance from Top Street Performance. Fits fine, but does not have vaccum block off ability, assumed it would not work.
Click to expand...
This will work just fine.....don't run a hose to the vacuum advance canister & Voila! the vacuum advance is blocked off.

If you wanted to get "fancy" you would remove the canister & make some type of plate to cover the hole. OR, if you can "computer control" the ignition, get a late 70's lean burn distributor that is "locked out" and does not have any mechanical or vacuum advance at all.
 
PurpleBeeper said:
This will work just fine.....don't run a hose to the vacuum advance canister & Voila! the vacuum advance is blocked off.

If you wanted to get "fancy" you would remove the canister & make some type of plate to cover the hole. OR, if you can "computer control" the ignition, get a late 70's lean burn distributor that is "locked out" and does not have any mechanical or vacuum advance at all.
Click to expand...


Why do you suppose the vacuum advance is there in the first place ?:popcorn2:
 
PurpleBeeper said:
This will work just fine.....don't run a hose to the vacuum advance canister & Voila! the vacuum advance is blocked off.

If you wanted to get "fancy" you would remove the canister & make some type of plate to cover the hole. OR, if you can "computer control" the ignition, get a late 70's lean burn distributor that is "locked out" and does not have any mechanical or vacuum advance at all.
Click to expand...
The lean burn ones have a blocking plate. You need something there to index the distrib cap, just a plate will not have the tab for it.
 
I thought the same thing, if you just don't hook up the vacuum line, wouldn't that basically eliminate the vacuum advance feature of the distributor?

If I do that (run the new style ready to run) and not hook up the vacuum advance, wouldn't the car run horrible at idle and low end?
 
You can do that. You just cap the line, or I have seen people put silicone in the line to block it. RTV type so it hardens and looks stock. You will have to recurve the distrib to fool it in the mechanical advance. All that depends on what was done to the motor. To many variables there so not one size fits all, really depends what curve you have in the distrib now. Pretty easy to check with a timing light with a adjustment for advance if you have one or a timing tape. Check it at idle, and go up in 500 rpm increments till where you normally run it. Then you have a baseline to work off of.
 
If you have a CDI box then you can use the Summit Racing brand distributor. I use on my 400/470 works perfectly.
 
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