Electric fan vs clutch

LemonWedge · Feb 14, 2019

my car currently runs a static mounted staggered 7-blade flex fan within a full aluminum shroud. I’d like to free up some of the drag it creates, and was planning on going to an electric fan setup. My budget for this year is running out, however. So, I’m looking at perhaps just making use of a clutch with the same fan & shroud. Will adding a clutch such as the one linked below help me much?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-2947/overview/

slepr1 · Feb 14, 2019

Their are videos on YouTube with actual dyno results of clutch fans vs no-clutch vs electric fan. If I remember correctly adding a clutch fan added about 2 HP.

747mopar · Feb 14, 2019

To me the big thing is that mechanical fans fail to provide cfm's where it's most needed (at idle in traffic) whereas electric fans provide it whenever it's needed.

HEMI-ITIS · Feb 14, 2019

I have a $200 Afco aluminum triple pass radiator and a single multispeed Spal fan with no shroud.In 95* heat it might creep up to 190/195*.Normal is 180*

LemonWedge · Feb 14, 2019

I’ve never had trouble keeping the car cool with the current setup. The car is more & more being used primarily as a bracket car, so I’m just looking for more performance. The electric would also give me the ability to control temp better. Ultimately, when my budget allows it’ll have an electric setup. Just thinking a clutch could free up some performance, but if it’s only a couple of hp... I’m not in for that.

HEMI-ITIS · Feb 14, 2019

https://www.google.com/search?q=JEG...ome..69i57.15792j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Mike Gaines · Feb 15, 2019

LemonWedge said:
I’ve never had trouble keeping the car cool with the current setup. The car is more & more being used primarily as a bracket car, so I’m just looking for more performance. The electric would also give me the ability to control temp better. Ultimately, when my budget allows it’ll have an electric setup. Just thinking a clutch could free up some performance, but if it’s only a couple of hp... I’m not in for that.

Go to electric fan(s) plus an electric Mesiere 53 gal electric water pump. You can then cool the car in the lanes in between runs without the motor running to activate the water pump

33 IMP · Feb 15, 2019

Engine masters tested four six-blade fans on a mild 350. Versus no fan( or electrical) a clutch fan cost 14 hp. The fixed plastic fan that i use cost 25, and the fixed oem cost 30 hp.
I use the fan i've got, because it keeps my engine cool, and my electric fan won't. The horsepower i give up is worth it to arrive back in my pit space at 175° instead of 235°. Then i use the electric to get it down to where i want.

91r/t · Feb 15, 2019

Alot of people buy cheaper electric fans also, which don't move the CFM required to cool a big block. There is a big difference in some of the more expensive fans and the less expensive units. I had two el cheapo electric fans on my Charger when I got it and it constantly ran hot. I switched to a fixed 7 blade fan with no clutch and now it runs 185 all day long. Losing 20-30hp when you have 500 isn't that bad when your going to get ice cream and dinner and don't wanna be on the side of the road overheating. Quite often the radiator choice is overlooked bigtime when people grab a cheap aluminum unit off Ebay vs a quality unit to cool their performance engines. The right combo can mean 185F all day long to sitting in a parking lot waiting for the temp to come down.
:thumbsup:

747mopar · Feb 15, 2019

91r/t said:
Alot of people buy cheaper electric fans also, which don't move the CFM required to cool a big block. There is a big difference in some of the more expensive fans and the less expensive units. I had two el cheapo electric fans on my Charger when I got it and it constantly ran hot. I switched to a fixed 7 blade fan with no clutch and now it runs 185 all day long. Losing 20-30hp when you have 500 isn't that bad when your going to get ice cream and dinner and don't wanna be on the side of the road overheating. Quite often the radiator choice is overlooked bigtime when people grab a cheap aluminum unit off Ebay vs a quality unit to cool their performance engines. The right combo can mean 185F all day long to sitting in a parking lot waiting for the temp to come down.

Yeap, to often people don't do their homework. People who say their electric fan won't cool their motor obviously didn't do their homework and same goes for mechanical fans, shrouds or the radiator.

91r/t · Feb 15, 2019

747mopar said:
Yeap, to often people don't do their homework. People who say their electric fan won't cool their motor obviously didn't do their homework and same goes for mechanical fans, shrouds or the radiator.

Exactly man. I laugh when people ask me why I spent $750 to have Glen Ray recore my factory 26" radiator. I tell them, well the local shop will do it for $590 but will it be done right? When I install this radiator, I can drive my car not staring at the temp gauge and having those ***-puckering moments when it creeps to 210F in traffic and you have to move or pull off and let it "cool down". No thanks. The extra $150 gets me factory correct parts that I know will work and function correctly. Not to mention he sends it with hardware, new cap, and new overflow hose which all adds up to almost the same amount in the end, and all with a lifetime guarantee. Or hey, we can go to O'reilly's and grab a Chinese aluminum rad and then overheat everytime it's over 70F outside.

FrnkNsteen · Feb 15, 2019

If you go electric, make sure you have a proper shroud to move the air properly through the radiator. The problem I had was with the big block in my '67 Barracuda, there was no room for a good fan setup and shroud as it would hit the water pump pulley. The 22" radiator did not allow for twin fans big enough to properly move enough air.

I switched out to a mechanical fan and shroud and my system works much better now. Before I would just get hotter and hotter unless moving down the road. Now the car can sit and idle with no overheating problems. I'll put some pics up of what was in the car when I bought it, and what I have now.

747mopar · Feb 15, 2019

I'm running twin 11" Spal fans on a BeCool aluminum radiator to get around the water pump pulley, lots of cfm's.

Edited.... after looking them up I'm running twin 11" fans not 10".

33 IMP · Feb 15, 2019

I have a quality oem electric fan, but i do have it in a pusher, less efficient configuration. I must admit that i was playing with an electric water pump drive as well. The belt drive pump and fan solved all my self-inflicted problems.

91r/t · Feb 15, 2019

747mopar said:
I'm running twin 10" Spall fans on a BeCool aluminum radiator to get around the water pump pulley, lots of cfm's.

I once read somewhere that the stock 7 blade fan with a shroud and no clutch moves somewhere like 3000 cfm or something?!? Most decent electric fans only pull like 650-750 so without a shroud you can't come close. That was my issue FrnkNsteen. I had the same problem and couldn't fit all that crap in the small area so I did the same. 747mopar I had the SPAL fans but the lower units that were like 750 cfm a piece or something so mine kept creeping up temp wise in traffic without the shroud. Then when you jump to the next size up, they start drawing some serious amperage and you melt wires so I scraped the whole idea and went stock. It started to snowball on me parts and wiring wise.

HEMI-ITIS · Feb 15, 2019

When I replace the stockish rad I used the twin fan set up I had for years and shed 200 lbs in the process.The way the plastic fans were situated one was directly in the path of incoming air,they had to be pushers.Anyway one fan centrifugally exploded with 140 mph air coming at it,,,,,,

747mopar · Feb 15, 2019

91r/t said:
I once read somewhere that the stock 7 blade fan with a shroud and no clutch moves somewhere like 3000 cfm or something?!? Most decent electric fans only pull like 650-750 so without a shroud you can't come close. That was my issue FrnkNsteen. I had the same problem and couldn't fit all that crap in the small area so I did the same. 747mopar I had the SPAL fans but the lower units that were like 750 cfm a piece or something so mine kept creeping up temp wise in traffic without the shroud. Then when you jump to the next size up, they start drawing some serious amperage and you melt wires so I scraped the whole idea and went stock. It started to snowball on me parts and wiring wise.

View attachment 720513

Not sure where your getting your info but that's far from the truth, here's what I'm running.... 2,720 CFM and that's just twin 11" fans!! I did my homework and purchased the right fan the first time.

Fans don't burn wires... people who don't know how to size wires to their load and don't know what a relay is do. My fans pull their juice straight from the battery via relays. I do however agree that once you commit it does snowball, wiring, relays, larger alternator, etc.

Not picking on anybody just trying to keep the discussion honest.

Another cool feature on this setup is the rubber flaps, along the top and bottom are rubber flaps that seal shut when the fan is running but push open to allow more flow on the freeway.

Screenshot_20190215-114607_Samsung Internet.jpg

66chargerpat · Feb 15, 2019

I use the same spal dual 11' fan also. With ac, it didn't move enough air at idle with the mechanical fan. I all so use the derale PWM fan controller.

gtxracer · Feb 15, 2019

I guess I am "old school". I have a BeCool radiator with an aluminum pump, ancient Moroso drive system and a Flexalite plastic fan. This allows the water to circulate while sitting in the pits waiting for the next round. So far the only problem with heat is when I forget to turn the fan on.

Bob

91r/t · Feb 15, 2019

747mopar said:
Not sure where your getting your info but that's far from the truth, here's what I'm running.... 2,720 CFM and that's just twin 11" fans!! I did my homework and purchased the right fan the first time.

Fans don't burn wires... people who don't know how to size wires to their load and don't know what a relay is do. My fans pull their juice straight from the battery via relays. I do however agree that once you commit it does snowball, wiring, relays, larger alternator, etc.

Not picking on anybody just trying to keep the discussion honest.

Another cool feature on this setup is the rubber flaps, along the top and bottom are rubber flaps that seal shut when the fan is running but push open to allow more flow on the freeway.

View attachment 720543

Oh I get that the fan doesn't burn wires. I just didn't wanna start chopping up/adding to my factory harness on my 68 and adding larger wires and get into all that. The benefit to me I guess wasn't enough. I see your car has a few more aftermarket goodies and if I went that route I'd do the same fan wise and some other stuff. Your car looks great by the way! You know how much a factory fan moves CFM wise? I'd be curious to know. I'm taking 7 blade with a shroud, not that dinky 4 blader or 5 blader they offered.

Looking right at the SPAL website, the two standard 11" fans pull 755CFM. You definitely got the better upgraded ones from the ones I had. My stuff was all on the car when I got it though.
:thumbsup:

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