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Wiring help for my 1970 Sport Sat

and, as 72RR told, grounding sender wires and key in RUN, should speed out the gauges to max reading. then beging to track everything from there. at bulkhead for temp, kick panel for gas up reach plug at Cluster.

if not response yet, power to limiter ( which is the same than oil/brake idiot lights so if they turn on, that's not the problem ), limiter itself or damaged gauges
 
In that case I would start at the sender leads where they are easiest to get to first. Ground the sender leads at the senders, work your way towards the cluster. Start with fuel sender lead at the kick panel 6-way, dark blue wire, gauge response when grounded?

Ground the violet wire at the temp sender, gauge response? go to the bulkhead connector, ground it there.
no response on both gauges, problem is likely in the cluster, gauges or limiter
Nothing on the fuel gauge or temp. I think its a power lead issue as I have a bunch of no connects that I need to identify. Any idea what these connectors are for?

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By the way no dash lights either...
 
Just checked the dimmer have 11V on the single yellow line.
 
and, as 72RR told, grounding sender wires and key in RUN, should speed out the gauges to max reading. then beging to track everything from there. at bulkhead for temp, kick panel for gas up reach plug at Cluster.

if not response yet, power to limiter ( which is the same than oil/brake idiot lights so if they turn on, that's not the problem ), limiter itself or damaged gauges
Only dummy oil lights not brake.
 
OK The orange instrument lamp feed was cut. I now have instrument lights!
 
First one is the time delay relay socket for the key switch illumination bulb.

Second, headlight warning buzzer diode connection. Was an option.

Third, can’t see the wire colors.

Fourth, cigar lighter
 
Nothing on the fuel gauge or temp.

The oil pressure light is powered from the same wire that powers the cluster PCB and voltage limiter, you say the oil light works, that would verify power to the cluster PCB. Looking more like the issue is in the limiter or it’s connections to the PCB.
 
Thanks 72RR I have been trying to get a lot done tonight and have made good progress and I know I have been firing off a bunch of posts so I appreciate you and Nacho hanging with me here!

Pic 2 & 3 same connector

I shorted out the fuel gauge no movement. I measured an oscillating voltage ~0.7V I don’t have an O-Scope but its a low frequency in Hz.

Ok question what does the time delay relay do/work?
 
Part of a light package, there should be a hooded light blub mounted in the steering column near the 4-way flasher pull-out, aimed at the ignition lock. Timer relay is triggered by the dome light switches, turns on then keeps the ignition switch light on for a minute or so after door is closed.
Actually, similar in construction to the voltage limiter, contains heated bi-metal contact switch.
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Brake light turns on when emergency brake is applied or a brake fluid pressure fail at dist block on engine bay. Both are ground signals. Check emergency brake switch if is disconected.

The ign key courtesy light turns on also with passenger door, at least on my car, but is 74

Time delay flasher gets 12v input on pink wire, 12 volts output on yellow traced black wire and door jam switch ground on yellow wire. When doors are opened ground and 12 volts from batt heat bimetallic to close points and feed the ign key light. As soon you close doors the ground is cut and the bimetallic will remain with points closed untill cools down and open points to turn off courtesy light. This can take around 5 to 10 seconds
 
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Hey guys so was the horn relay mounted under the dash by the dimmer area?
 
Thanks again 72RR horn now working through the relay!

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Lol I have the other one but I wanted to get the cicuit running to test it. They are in parallel so its a simple add. Mine don’t go beeb beep. I wonder if there is a mod to make them road runner sounding?
 
So what are you doing today?

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Paint is now dry. Ok we now have stereo...... Not sure where to point them.

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