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4 wheel disc

ord27

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okay guys, I've pulled the trigger on a 4 wheel disc conversion. The instructions say to remove the axles so that I can remove the entire drum assembly. This has me stressed out. I am considering hauling it to a shop and have them remove the axles. Am I over reacting? Is it not that tough? It's a fresh 8 3/4.
I also bought new brake lines. They don't seem to line up well, but the Right Stuff kit has me cutting them anyway

Advice? Observations?
axcel.jpg
axcel2.jpg
 
Take the 5 nuts off and pull the axles out, not too hard to do. May have to use a pry bar to get it loose, but they just come right out, hard to hurt anything. You don’t need a slide hammer.

No C-clips at all. The splines are smaller diameter that the axle seal surface so they come out of the seal fine if you be careful.

You said it’s fresh and it looks like it so they should come out easily.
 
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Pulling the axles on an 8 3/4 is not bad. There is a retainer behind the flange and you unbolt that. I bet there are a ton of videos online for reference.
 
no need to open the carrier and remove "c" clamps?
 
They come out fairly easy. I did require a slide hammer on passenger but mine had been in there awhile. Also wrap the axle tube with a piece of heavy paper and push it between the axle tube and the seal as you pull the axle out. This will keep the axle end from cutting up the seal.
 
thanks guys. I guess I have nothing to lose by trying.
 
It can be intimidating to do new things when you have never seen it done. I have learned a LOT by just jumping in and figuring things out as I go. I have also learned by watching YouTube videos before digging in.
The first time I did a camshaft swap in my Charger, I was nervous about it and it took a few days before I popped the hood to get started.
 
Recommendations for going back together-

1.- Replace your inner seals. It's easy, just need a piece of 2" pipe or seal driver.
2.- Add some grease to the axle bearings while they're out. Do not over-grease.
3.- There's an outer seal that goes on before the bearings are pressed on, between the retainer and the outer race. Everyone forgets about this one. If there's too much grease it will get squeezed past and contaminate your brake shoes.
 
Unbolt the axle-flange. Put brake-drum on backwards, start 3 lug-nuts...and use the drum as a slide hammer. It should pop right out. I'd replace all seals, while it's apart.
 
If your doing a 4 wheel conversion, there is a very likely possibility that the instructions require green bearings. You likely have these installed on your axles already but if not, you may need to add those. Also, green bearings will change your seal requirements that Demonic listed above.
What I'm saying is read the directions!! Also, pulling the axles is about as easy as changing plugs. Don't stress..
 
thanks everyone. Yes, it does require the green bearings. Right Stuff sent me some. I'm hoping that this freshly built assembly already has them, but I'm not sure that I will know even when looking
 
Chrysler moved the position of the junction block at some point, which is why your brake lines don't line up. Contact Right stuff they may be able to sort it out.
 
Right stuff sent me the wrong lines when i bought them for an 8 3/4 they sent me Dana lines.. They were much different.

These are dana lines.
RRA6802S_1.jpg

These are 8.75 lines
RRA6801_2.jpg
 
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It seems your housing is pre 1970, and the brake lines are 1970 and later. From what I just read, they moved the junction block outward in 1970. My 1967 housing has the block in the same place as yours.
 
thanks again guys. I am going to attempt the axle removal later today. I will also attempt to have different lines sent. Thanks for the insight
 
Once the axles are out, you can easily tell the factory style tapered roller bearings from the Green ball type bearings. The tapered roller outer race will be 'sloppy' on the bearing since they are a two piece bearing just like the front bearings. Ball bearings come out of the box assembled and the outer race isn't 'sloppy' on the balls.
 
yall are right, it's an easy operation. Here's what passenger side looks like. Would yall replace this?
axle bearing.jpg
 
I worked on the one side of the axle today. After mounting the caliper, I seem to have no room for the outer pad. I've determined that the issue is that the rotor doesn't fit past the raised section of the hub bolts.
I'm thinking that I need to drill out the rotor holes a bit, or force it on

mounted caliper small.jpg
hub bolts.jpg
 
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