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318 would like to go all in

one other thing I will say is you should decide how much power you want and go from there. If your fine with 250hp maybe a tad more stick with rebuilding your original engine (since it doesn't run). If you want more muscle than that, go find a larger engine. You could go crazy and stroke out that 318 to the max, but that may be impractical. I'm not sure how that would affect the street performance and reliability for a driver either.
 
Nothing wrong with a small block . You need to determine honestly what the goal is ! Your kinda all over the place! So let's start with being org. Doesn't much mater on a 318 se charger. So Chuck it keep it ! I wouldn't go insane on it as most people do I had a 440 4 speed 72 it was fun but I rarely used the power it cost a ton to run ,I preferred my 318 charger it was more enjoyable . So you want best of both worlds 360 mag or 340 mag . You probably have a 318 904 auto and a 8 1/4
Nothing wrong with these as a daily driver. 295 is the widest you will get in the stock rear wheel wells !
 
Yeah i know that I am all over the place for sure, especially reading back through the thread. if it was a chevelle i would know what i wanted just not very familiar with these cars and engines. That is okay though I wont ever know if i do not ask!

let me say that i would like around 350-500hp and i know that is a large range but that may help. I think that would make for a fun car, have some power so i could get down on it if i would like but not so much that i will be in a ditch when i hit it. I did some more reading and I am sort of leaning towards a magnum 360.. maybe the 5.9, like out of a ram 1500 or something?

I do not care about fuel mileage at all even if i get 8mpg so what, its going to be my "fun car".

being that I am younger I did not really grow up around the carb era and i just have it in my head that EFI is much better and I am okay with it being a little pricey.

i also know i said i wanted the most cam chop i could get but i will talk with whatever company i decide and make sure that its realistically still drive-able so to speak.
 
Boring and stroking the numbers matching engine is arguably a worse destruction of OEM status as simply replacing the engine and keeping the original "pickled".

For the money IMO-

2.25 dual exhaust on factory manifolds
Summit 440 lift cam (6900/6901)
Performer intake
500 or 600 CFM AFB/AVS carb
Sure grip rear end and maybe replace the 2.76 with a 3.23.

About 75 HP gain, no real destruction, slight change in idle, still easy to drive, cost effective, can be done in stages.

Or-

$1000 or less 5.9 magnum from 1990's truck
new oil pan, new intake, new converter (or adapter)
Whatever magnumswaps.com says

About 150 HP gain depending on what else is done
 
to yy1,hmm..lol..sounds like familiar advice eyh.

to the Op.
i see you have started embracing the idea of a magnum.
thats good to hear,because its the easiest to get Hp for.

about your truck magnum.
personally,this is how i do it all the time.
in fact theres one sitting waiting to be stripped right now in my yard,
for a friends project car.

i paid the grand sum of $250 bucks for this truck,
which had been crashed in the front corner.
i bought this truck because i could hear it run and drive,And,
i knew the former owner very well,
so i knew the history of the truck and how he took care of it.

for this,i got a recently maintained 318 magnum/timing chain water pump etc etc,
and a $1800 rebuilt transmission,which maybe someone will need later on.

next,ill take off the body parts worth saving,the brakes and assorted odds,
and ends,and then load whats left with scrap and cash it out at the yard.
scrap prices are around 160 a ton,
so i can make $300 back on my $250 investment.

2 things you need to watch out for w magnums,
the stock factory heads would crack.
Enginequest i think it was ,makes replacements that are better,
for around 700 a pair last time i bought a set.<<
the factory efi intakes were junk/not a problem for where you are going with it.

as far as your wanted Hp levels,you have to be realistic.
theres a huge difference in 300-500hp,both cashwise And in other components.
sure,you can throw a 10grand motor in there,
but your Stock trans rearend and suspension arent going to be able to handle it very well.

i think you could get 350 to 400 hp very easily out of a 360 magnum,
and still be driveable.

you really need to sit down and make 2 plans,
one for your wild side and one for your sensible side...
then you will be able to see for yourself the right way to go.

Edit:yes,your fuel injection idea isnt bad either.
they make all sorts of standalone stuff now.
this makes your car a lot easier to start and saves you gas money.
best part is,if you get another mopar,you can always swap everything over to it.
 
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Sounds like a swap to a 318 Magnum or 360 Magnum is your best option. I would say 360, as there's no replacement for displacement. LOL. And I think its a direct bolt in, right? General question: Do those 2 Magnum motors use the same hi flow head? And are they throttle body injection, or carbureted? Someone said change the fuel pump if you go to a Magnum motor. Just wondering why you need to do that.
 
My factory rated 245 NET HP 5.9 magnum moves my 4200 pound Dakota pretty well.

Granted it has 3.92 gears.

From a standing start, it will spin both rear wheels until I choose to let up.

I'm pretty confident it would do the same with 3.55 or 3.23 gears.

That's more net HP as the 70's 400 and almost as much as the mid 70's 440.

That relatively cheap and relatively easy swap should do fine in your 4000 # or less B body.

Finding a running, driving 5.9 powered short cab ram with about 150,000 miles is fairly easy around here for $1500 or less. it may have a bad transmission, as that's a REALLY common issue from the 90's. But you don't need that part.

My truck's engine runs as good at 170,000 mile as as it did the day I bough it with 31,000 on the clock.

As BeatersRus is alluding to above, you could actually make money on the deal, or at least pay for part of or all of the other parts you'll need.....all while nearly doubling the HP of your car.
 
Sounds like a swap to a 318 Magnum or 360 Magnum is your best option. I would say 360, as there's no replacement for displacement. LOL. And I think its a direct bolt in, right? General question: Do those 2 Magnum motors use the same hi flow head? And are they throttle body injection, or carbureted? Someone said change the fuel pump if you go to a Magnum motor. Just wondering why you need to do that.
fuel injected motors dont come with the cam drive for the fuel pump like La motors.
the heads are Much better flow than the La heads.
the tbi intakes are barrel shaped,and designed for torque,but its a compromise intake.
its also a 2 piece intake and the bottom cover is Notorious for blowing out the gasket,
and then eating oil like it hasnt been fed since birth.
 
magnumswaps.com
 
When using the TBI, does that require a high pressure fuel pump? Is it inside the fuel tank or does an outside mount pump work Ok?
 
inside the tank and yes,high pressure = 50lbs if i recall.
seriously,i would Not reuse a factory tbi intake for anything but a doorstop.
use a 4bbl intake with the standalone tbi,imo.

plus,the height difference of the barrel intake,
i dont think it would fit everything under the hood of our cars?
 
Sounds like the best way to go here, is the 360 Magnum with factory roller cam, and TBI. I used to drive a big Dodge van (360 Magnum) that hauled passengers back and forth to the airport. Some of those things had 400,000 miles on them and still ran great! Awesome motor!
 
thanks everyone. the search is on for a magnum 360. my dad has a friend that he works with who has a friend that literally has about 50 classics waiting to be restored. i had planned to see if he has a 440 that he wanted to let go of and keep it in the back corner for another project later. so i will ask what else he has.

I am going to go read everything i can on that magnumswaps.com and i will return with more questions for sure.

also i am not one of those guys (not saying anyone said i am) that goes and drops everything in the engine and then does not do the proper driveline upgrades to back it up. I am just starting with the engine and goals and building everything around that.. i know a little bit of what I am doing!
 
I think that stock 8 1/4 rear end is a pretty strong one. May work for you. An 8 3/4 is stronger, good for drag racing.
 
I think that stock 8 1/4 rear end is a pretty strong one. May work for you. An 8 3/4 is stronger, good for drag racing.

i will ask my dads friends friend if he might have one of those too since there is no way hes ever going to restore all those cars. he is bound to have a couple spares.. maybe.

I will look at my build sheet and see if i can determine which trans and rear i have for sure, and let yall know.
 
The bigger 8 3/4 rear can be identified by the removable center section, or Pumpkin. All the bolts are in the front. Many B Bodies came with these. From the back, it looks like half of a globe.
 
The 8 1/4 rear end has a cover on the back. And all the cover bolts are visible from the rear.
 
The 318 is always bashed on the forums but I LOVE them.
For the cool muscle car idle, I used a Hughes Whiplash cam.
My next 318 I'm building will have:
392 stroker kit
Roller cam
Sequential port fuel injection

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Jeff
 
Good reading here. Back in the day I had a 318 that I massaged into quite a street sleeper that showed taillights to a good number of cars. But, I have a question on one of the OP' s points. Value. Same car, one with a worked numbers match 318, the other an R/T (actually Rallye for 74 ) clone with a 440. Which has the better value ? Thoughts ?
 
Imo, just get a 360 block and build it into a 408.
By far the easiest path to approaching anywhere near 500hp on pump gas with a SB.

Taking any other path, once completed, will leave you wishing you’d done the 408.
 
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