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Rust Converter?

Never ever use POR 15! I think it actually promotes rust.
 
I've had good luck with both Rustoleum & Loctite RUST CONVERTER that you get at the local parts store.
 
I used to use Dupli-Color but I can't find it any more.

Now I'm using Loc-Tite, and it seems to be just as good.

Lowes even has it.
 
A sandblaster is the best product to use.
 
Not really about rust converter but interesting watch.

Results (spoiler alert):
#1...Muriatic Acid
#2...Krud Kutter
#3...Evap-Rust


 
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It's important to know where your using it? Sandblasting is the best but to simply stop rust on floors or the undercarriage an encapsulator like Rustbullet or POR15 is great but if it's a panel to be painted I mechanically remove everything I possibly can then treat it with PPG's rust treatment products followed by epoxy primer.
 
I have not seen it promoting rust. The only issue is that the metal gets more difficult to work with after application. It is tough stuff.

I had a car sandblasted and I painted it with POR 15. After 2 years it was rusting through. And the car never left the garage! I had another car in the garage in bare metal for 8 years that never rusted. Yesterday I checked on some fan motor brackets that I painted with POR 15 5 years ago, all the paint had peeled off and metal was very rusted.
I’ve used POR 15 for many years and everything I used it on has rusted through.
Including sand blasted metal, rusted metal, frames, gas tanks, natural gas lines, heating and cooling units...
And yes, it was applied probably and with their cleaners,pretreatment and top coat.
Use it if you want, but I say it’s nothing but snake oil.
 
Never ever use POR 15! I think it actually promotes rust.[/QUO also peals off.
I had a car sandblasted and I painted it with POR 15. After 2 years it was rusting through. And the car never left the garage! I had another car in the garage in bare metal for 8 years that never rusted. Yesterday I checked on some fan motor brackets that I painted with POR 15 5 years ago, all the paint had peeled off and metal was very rusted.
I’ve used POR 15 for many years and everything I used it on has rusted through.
Including sand blasted metal, rusted metal, frames, gas tanks, natural gas lines, heating and cooling units...
And yes, it was applied probably and with their cleaners,pretreatment and top coat.
Use it if you want, but I say it’s nothing but snake oil.
I agree, It peels off.
 
I had a car sandblasted and I painted it with POR 15. After 2 years it was rusting through.

The sandblasting probably had more to do with the rust coming through than the POR 15. Sandblasting can't possibly remove all traces of rust. The finest media cannot get into the finest pores and subsequently the rust just starts to grow again. A liquid rust remover/converter/inhibitor is by far the best method.

In the video he uses muriatic acid. While this stuff does an awesome job, the fumes are deadly so using it in any sort of volume or as a spray, etc. is virtually out of the question - not to mention what it does to you if you get ANY on you. I often use it to burn cad plating of parts I'm going to weld and I swear to God, the fumes alone burn my skin. And the other issue with muriatic id that once the parts are rinsed, and that's absolutely necessary, they will flash rust in minutes.

The advantage to most rust removers that are commercially available is that they don't need a rinse and will leave a protective phosphate coating which can be painted over or wiped off if you so desire.
 
I use Phosphoric acid to Etch the rust. Prep & Etch can be bought at Home Depot in a gallon container
for about 15 bucks. I personally don't like convertors because they are tough, and if you bury them
somewhere and the rust starts creeping back in you're screwed. Blasting or etching is the best answer
for rust. You have to get rid of it or it will come back.





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The sandblasting probably had more to do with the rust coming through than the POR 15. Sandblasting can't possibly remove all traces of rust. The finest media cannot get into the finest pores and subsequently the rust just starts to grow again. A liquid rust remover/converter/inhibitor is by far the best method.

In the video he uses muriatic acid. While this stuff does an awesome job, the fumes are deadly so using it in any sort of volume or as a spray, etc. is virtually out of the question - not to mention what it does to you if you get ANY on you. I often use it to burn cad plating of parts I'm going to weld and I swear to God, the fumes alone burn my skin. And the other issue with muriatic id that once the parts are rinsed, and that's absolutely necessary, they will flash rust in minutes.

The advantage to most rust removers that are commercially available is that they don't need a rinse and will leave a protective phosphate coating which can be painted over or wiped off if you so desire.

The manufacturers of POR15 said sandblasting is the best way to prep for POR15. And if you believe that rust comes through the paint because there was still traces of rust after sandblasting, then you should know that POR stands for Paint Over Rust.
 
I used the VHT stuff available thru summit.
No issues after 1 year.
It's spray on, which is convenient, but seems incredibly toxic. I wore a chemical respirator, came back after a while and it lingers, even outside on a calm day.

I've heard of ospho (?) but never used it.

Evaporust is amazing, but a remover, and not cheap.

I've heard por15 sucks, however I also read it has to be applied over rust.
 
if you believe that rust comes through the paint because there was still traces of rust after sandblasting, then you should know that POR stands for Paint Over Rust.

I have a car that was blasted four years ago and has been sitting in my shop since and the only rust on it is the stuff that was too deep for the media. I live in Ontario so its not like our climate is any better than Pa. So go figure why your car is rusting through the POR !! My opinion is the blasting didn't do an adequate job.
 
I've also used "Ospho".

it does cause "flash rust" and for me, actually adds an unnecessary step.

I just sand blast, then use the Duplicolor/LocTite product if necesary.
 
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