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Idler arm removal

jball1105

Well-Known Member
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12:01 PM
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Jul 21, 2012
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Location
Ogden, UT
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hey guys. I need help removing the idler arm on my 63 fury. I checked the FSM and it just says remove using tool A-8394. I googled that tool and it says pitman arm puller. I can see how it’s used but with the idler arm sitting in the “cradle” on the k member I can’t tell where to place the “hooks” to make this work. Any advice is much appreciated
 
Hit the stud firmly and squarely with a hammer, it will pop out. You,already have the nut in place correctly.
 
I will give that try. I put the nut on ready to try hitting it but thought I’d better check the manual first
 
Are you replacing it? Let us know what brand you use and how it works out if you are.
 
Yes I am replacing it. I got the Super front end rebuild kit from PST.
I'd like to see a pic or two once you get everything installed. A few of us were having clearance issues useing some of the aftermarket idler arms and tie rods.

I actually had to use a pickle fork on my idler arm at the frame. IIRC I had to slip it in from the front.
 
I'd like to see a pic or two once you get everything installed. A few of us were having clearance issues useing some of the aftermarket idler arms and tie rods.

I’ll post pics once I’ve got them installed. Where are the clearance issues happening?
 
I installed a Moog K779 last spring and it fit perfect.

Can you tell me why you guys buy PST stuff? All I hear is how it doesn’t fit and many other problems.
 
I installed a Moog K779 last spring and it fit perfect.

Can you tell me why you guys buy PST stuff? All I hear is how it doesn’t fit and many other problems.

I have zero experience with any of this. I wanted the poly bushings and it came in a kit with everything I needed. 10% discount for members and good customer service (so far). Hopefully everything works out.
 
I’ll post pics once I’ve got them installed. Where are the clearance issues happening?
One was the tie rod end being too close to the torsion bar when it passed by it. The tie rod ends were bigger in design.

The idler arm had a slight difference in shape and it made the center link closer to the pan. You probably won't have that problem. Looks like you have the small block engine (Poly).
 
One was the tie rod end being too close to the torsion bar when it passed by it. The tie rod ends were bigger in design.

The idler arm had a slight difference in shape and it made the center link closer to the pan. You probably won't have that problem. Looks like you have the small block engine (Poly).

Side by side they look the same however once I put it one it is hitting the exhaust

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Side by side they look the same however once I put it one it is hitting the exhaust

View attachment 727138 View attachment 727139

You can see the difference in the profile. Don't know why anyone would change it from the original but it's what some of us have found.

Your solution would be to dent the header for clearance. I would probably mock up or just install and snug up the other pieces and see how they clear before you break out the hammer.

I found a NOS idler when I encountered some clearance issues. The problem was the idler was holding the inner tie rod a bit higher than before and it was contacting the torsion bar. (Passenger side) The tie rod ends were a bit heavier in thickness also.
 
Hit the stud firmly and squarely with a hammer, it will pop out. You,already have the nut in place correctly.

Yep. A really big hammer. And don’t Nancy it.
 
Thanks everyone. There was some play in the exhaust that I need to figure out. I’m guessing there’s a hanger missing or it’s not tightened down somewhere?? I’ll look into that tomorrow. I also don’t have these torqued down to spec yet. That may give a bit more clearance?
 
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