• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

how to disassemble turn signal switch for repair

Evan Frucht

Evan Frucht

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:11 AM
Joined
Sep 3, 2018
Messages
837
Reaction score
311
Location
Los angeles
I cant imagine the switch is that complicated, mine wont work the rear signals or break lights and I'm thinking maybe a connection just got corroded and needs cleaned or maybe a small piece needs replaced... but I cant figure out how to take the darn thing apart. namely the cancelling cam. its seems stuck to the assembly but they sell replacements of just that part so there must be a way to remove it. its covering the internals of the switch it seems.

I would rather try to fix it before spending 150 on a new switch which may be lower quality than the original
 
Evan, did you do what Nacho mentioned to do. Go through each of his post and check. He has the correct wire colors. Feeding 12 volts to your rear wires via the turn signal plug, under the dash, is easy enough to do. Or use a long wire and your amp meter. Think simple first. Do you have a good Factory Service Manual? The wiring diagram is in there.

Here's the link to your first thread.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...tail-lights-and-all-other-lights-work.168160/
 
khryslerkid said:
Evan, did you do what Nacho mentioned to do. Go through each of his post and check. He has the correct wire colors. Feeding 12 volts to your rear wires via the turn signal plug, under the dash, is easy enough to do. Or use a long wire and your amp meter. Think simple first. Do you have a good Factory Service Manual? The wiring diagram is in there.

Here's the link to your first thread.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...tail-lights-and-all-other-lights-work.168160/
Click to expand...
I'm not sure exactly how to test the rear blinkers and brake lights with the turn signal switch disconnected or bypassed

He gave some good advice and I confirmed that both the T.S.S connector and kick panel connector were providing good connections. so that leaves me to the either the turn signal switch or the hidden loom of wire that runs through the body all the way to back... and I already checked the connections behind the tail lamps.

I'm pretty confident its the switch at this point but I could be wrong
 
Last edited:
You said you wanted to save $150. So eliminate and isolate the problem. That way you don't throw money at it.

In my '62 manual left and right are tan and light green. That's D9 and D10 connections. So you can touch 12 volts to either one of these and see if they light. (on the female half of the plug not the turn signal switch half).

Or run a wire to the wire at the socket and use your ohms meter setting to see if there's continuity.

You can see the position of the plug in the drawing, also you'll see the color wire they call out in the schedule.
20190304_184721.jpg
 
khryslerkid said:
You said you wanted to save $150. So eliminate and isolate the problem. That way you don't throw money at it.

In my '62 manual left and right are tan and light green. That's D9 and D10 connections. So you can touch 12 volts to either one of these and see if they light. (on the female half of the plug not the turn signal switch half).

Or run a wire to the wire at the socket and use your ohms meter setting to see if there's continuity.

You can see the position of the plug in the drawing, also you'll see the color wire they call out in the schedule.
View attachment 728526
Click to expand...
I found the wires in the connector that are for the rear turn and stop, and I understand the idea of testing it but I'm not the best with wiring so I have 2 concerns

a) don't know where a good 12 volt wire source under the dash is
b) I don't want to screw that up and short out wiring

I also already pulled the steering wheel and removed the ts switch. I'm hoping I can repair it, if it is in fact the problem.

ill check continuity with an ohm meter
 
just did the test with and ohm meter and long piece of wire and I have good continuity to the rear bulb housing to where the turn signal switch connects. so it is the switch
 
Evan Frucht said:
just did the test with and ohm meter and long piece of wire and I have good continuity to the rear bulb housing to where the turn signal switch connects. so it is the switch
Click to expand...

That's the way to do it. Just think if the wire was shorted and you install a new switch.

Try @Joe Suchy and see how his price is on a new one.
 
Evan Frucht said:
but I cant figure out how to take the darn thing apart. namely the cancelling cam. its seems stuck to the assembly but they sell replacements of just that part so there must be a way to remove it. its covering the internals of the switch it seems.
Click to expand...
I had the same bad contacts problem on my 64.
Once the turn signal switch is pulled out of the column, the cancelling cam can be removed, by gently prying it off the shaft. Your right, the switching contacts are in there, and the cancelling cam needs to be taken off, to get to them.
My wiring was in good shape. Needed the contacts cleaned, new lube, and then it worked as it should. Just need to pay careful attention to it all, how the parts are arraigned, so it goes back together right.
Putting the cancelling cam back on is easy, if careful.
 
miller said:
I had the same bad contacts problem on my 64.
Once the turn signal switch is pulled out of the column, the cancelling cam can be removed, by gently prying it off the shaft. Your right, the switching contacts are in there, and the cancelling cam needs to be taken off, to get to them.
My wiring was in good shape. Needed the contacts cleaned, new lube, and then it worked as it should. Just need to pay careful attention to it all, how the parts are arraigned, so it goes back together right.
Putting the cancelling cam back on is easy, if careful.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I have it out of the car so I may have some more questions while trying to fix it.
 
Before you go wailing into the turn signal switch, make sure you have 12 Volts going to both sides that feed the switch FIRST.

The problem may be somewhere else.
 
kiwigtx said:
Before you go wailing into the turn signal switch, make sure you have 12 Volts going to both sides that feed the switch FIRST.

The problem may be somewhere else.
Click to expand...
There are a bunch of wires that feed the switch. where exactly should I be finding 12v "feed." One wire works front right&park, one for front left&park, one for rear signal&stop, one for left signal&stop, one goes to the flasher and one goes to the brake light switch. I think, I need to double check.
 
Evan Frucht said:
I have it out of the car so I may have some more questions while trying to fix it.
Click to expand...
Once you get into it, note there will be two moveable contact 'blocks'. Because of how they go in, won't look the same at contacts...need to go back in the same way! Can't remember off hand, so be aware of possible springs.
Just need to ohm test each, tracing the contacts, when in position.
 
Evan Frucht said:
There are a bunch of wires that feed the switch. where exactly should I be finding 12v "feed." One wire works front right&park, one for front left&park, one for rear signal&stop, one for left signal&stop, one goes to the flasher and one goes to the brake light switch
Click to expand...
Same thing I had to do...look over the wiring diagrams. I 'think' the power feed wire to the switch your looking for, is the one from the flasher. Trace it to it's source.
'nother thought, while your at it, cancelling cam fingers. If they are not fairly flexible, replace it...or you'll be doing it later after it breaks.
 
Thanks for all the help, I'm working on it now I'll let you know what I find.
 
The issue I'm having at this point is it seems the pivot has tiny metal tabs that are pressed down holding the cancelling cam on, I tried to gently pry it off but its not moving. I'm hesitant to hit it with a punch because I don't want to break it.
 
Evan Frucht said:
I'm hesitant to hit it with a punch because I don't want to break it.
Click to expand...
No...don't do that.

Tiny metal tabs? There were none on mine. Actually tore down two, one with cut wires I bought, for parts if needed.
The cancelling cam, nylon?, just a snug fit on the metal shaft, just prying on both sides underneath, to walk it off the shaft.

If there are tabs, they would need to be bent clear, to get the cancelling cam off. Any chance of a pic?? 64 part??
 
ill post a pic. it almost seems like tabs are holding it but they are so small. its a 64 part. its original too it still has the part number sticker
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
  • Locked
SOLD Turn Signal Switch New
Replies
2
Views
670
1 Wild R/T
1 Wild R/T
SIX TO GO
What’s the best company to buy a new turn signal switch?
2
Replies
25
Views
4K
Ruby67
Ruby67
SMS68
Turn signal lever to switch
Replies
1
Views
667
yella71
Y
Geetex
  • Locked
SOLD '70 Turn Signal Switch
Replies
0
Views
591
Geetex
Geetex
Longknife
Turn signal switch
Replies
11
Views
1K
black64
black64
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top