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no brake lights or rear signal, but tail lights and all other lights work?

retractable said:
I would check the connector in the bottom of the left front door pillar
Click to expand...

Good point. On another car somehow the rear harness shorted out and burned up under the driver sill plate. That connector was not working so it didn't blow the fuse. Once I cleaned it up and got the connection back it immediately blew the fuse.
 
The connector in the left front door post could have wires corroded for the L and R rear signals and not the tail lights. I have had numerous cars that have had corrosion on wires buy that connector plug.
 
Evan Frucht said:
Thanks ill try that, the dimmer switch is less of an issue at this point, but an issue nonetheless.

I'm having a little trouble understanding that last statement but you could be onto something, can you clarify?
Click to expand...

I meant Ground are common to positioning lights and blinkers/brakes. So if there is a ground issue hard enough to not turn on the high intensity lights, won't light on the positioning lights either. A ground issue could make to dim the position lights when high intensity lights try to turn on.

I suggest try to jump out the lights from turning switch plug down the column because that won't require to dissasembly anything on car yet. That will discard turning switch firts. If they still don't turn on jumping wires there then you can think on some other parts dissasembly, such as Kick panel. And would mean turning switch could be just fine inside the column
 
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Nacho-RT74 said:
I meant Ground are common to positioning lights and blinkers/brakes. So if there is a ground issue hard enough to not turn on the high intensity lights, won't light on the positioning lights either. A ground issue could make to dim the position lights when high intensity lights try to turn on.

I suggest try to jump out the lights from turning switch plug down the column because that won't require to dissasembly anything on car yet. That will discard turning switch firts. If they still don't turn on jumping wires there then you can think on some other parts dissasembly, such as Kick panel. And would mean turning switch could be just fine inside the column
Click to expand...
ok, good advice.

I carefully inspected both connections, the switch plug connector and the kick panel connector. both are very clean and tight with no corrosion, and I'm confident they are good connections.

I'm thinking the switch is faulty
 
What would you think might be my problem? I lowered my column onto the seat and put it back up and ever since, my lights all work just fine but the right rear directional will not work nor will it flash with safety flashers on. The right front fender indicator comes on solid as well as the dash indicator on solid but right rear nothing. I changed the right rear bulb and cleaned the socket up and used a little dielectric grease on it. If it was a bad ground at the right rear socket wouldn't the bulb not light at all? From what I read above a bad ground could possibly still be the issue.
 
multimopes said:
What would you think might be my problem? I lowered my column onto the seat and put it back up and ever since, my lights all work just fine but the right rear directional will not work nor will it flash with safety flashers on. The right front fender indicator comes on solid as well as the dash indicator on solid but right rear nothing. I changed the right rear bulb and cleaned the socket up and used a little dielectric grease on it. If it was a bad ground at the right rear socket wouldn't the bulb not light at all? From what I read above a bad ground could possibly still be the issue.
Click to expand...
It's probably the turn signal switch connector or kick panel connection. A connection must of loosened up when you dropped the column.
It's not a ground issue I don't think, if everything else works as it should.

look at a wiring diagram it will tell you the color of the wires and where to find them. YOU MUST find the wire that comes off the switch to power the rear right bulb and make sure that connection is good. In other words, you are looking for one specific wire off the turn signal switch that is dedicated to that rear right bulb.
 
Thanks, if it decides to warm up a tad I will delve into it further.
 
You say rear right... but front right? Not fender indicator, but front parking light assembly.

I meant this because usually fender and cluster lights don't suck enough load to make the flasher bimetallic heats, then blink.

And what about that rear right on hazzards?

I guess brakes work on both?
 
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Thanks Nacho. The right front does come on steady and the right front fender indicator and the dash indicator as well. The only malfunction is the right rear (blinker(hazard)&stop lamp). The right brake light does NOT work. Everything on the left is good to go. Just a damn filament that refuses to co-operate!
 
BTW The correct colors for 64 turn signal switch wires dark GREEN for RIGHT REAR & BROWN for rears like nacho said​

I did a test with an ohm meter and found have continuity from the switch connector to the rear bulbs so that means its the switch, someone correct me if I'm wrong
 
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multimopes said:
Thanks Nacho. The right front does come on steady and the right front fender indicator and the dash indicator as well.
Click to expand...
steady on? don't they blink ?

Evan Frucht said:
BTW The correct colors for 64 turn signal switch wires are actually LIGHT GREEN for RIGHT REAR & BROWN for LEFT REAR.
Click to expand...
yes, well colors could get changes on several years ;)

Evan Frucht said:
I did a test with an ohm meter and found have continuity from the switch connector to the rear bulbs so that means its the switch, someone correct me if I'm wrong
Click to expand...

conector on the underdash end I guess... depending on how you test it. If you checked between conector and ground well it means you got a short or bulb is good... any of those LOL.

now if you checked between conector and wire on rear, yes, it could be very well damaged switch.

You can feed the conector with 12 volts and bulbs should light on.
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
steady on? don't they blink ?


yes, well colors could get changes on several years ;)



conector on the underdash end I guess... depending on how you test it. If you checked between conector and ground well it means you got a short or bulb is good... any of those LOL.

now if you checked between conector and wire on rear, yes, it could be very well damaged switch.

You can feed the conector with 12 volts and bulbs should light on.
Click to expand...
I attached a long wire to the rear bulb socket and ran it to the rear wires on the switch connector and got continuity.

I don't know which hot wire I should use to test them. so I haven't ran 12v through it to see if the bulbs light.

I'm hoping I will be able to clean up the connections on the original switch and fix it. has anyone done that before?
 
Evan Frucht said:
I attached a long wire to the rear bulb socket and ran it to the rear wires on the switch connector and got continuity.

I don't know which hot wire I should use to test them. so I haven't ran 12v through it to see if the bulbs light.
Click to expand...

You could find a hot terminal in your fuse block. Put a slip on connector on one end of a piece of wire and push it into the one end of the fuse. Just touch the other end into the female switch connector on the wire you want. If you have a long enough wire, clip it on the battery terminal.
 
khryslerkid said:
You could find a hot terminal in your fuse block. Put a slip on connector on one end of a piece of wire and push it into the one end of the fuse. Just touch the other end into the female switch connector on the wire you want. If you have a long enough wire, clip it on the battery terminal.
Click to expand...

OK that's a good idea. I have a long wire !

Will do that tmrw to make sure I don't have a bulb socket issue or something like that
 
I already told how to make it on a previous reply ;)... just jump white wire on same conector with the bulb/circuit you want to test and press brakes... bulb should light on. Is a small jumper wire on same conector ;)

white wire is the one coming from brake pedal ( or should be at least )
 
Evan, I just want to apologize for interjecting my problem on your thread. I just kinda got sucked in! Sorry.
 
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