daytona kid
Well-Known Member
A tip for welding- check the gas hoses and fittings for leaks with soapy water, and turn the gas off as soon as you're thru welding. I had to buy gas sooner than I should have because I didn't do either at first.
Backyard find 1970 Charger DIY Build
- Thread starter lochenjons
- Start date
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
THANK YOU !!!!!!!
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
thanks for the tip, didn't even think about that.
I've opted to cut the pan in half and install it in the car that way. The rear tail panel is in good shape, I don't feel like cutting it out just to get the pan in there.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
And I’ll pick it up for you to get it across the border. Just remember things have a way of disappearing on that journey....
So the auction is still open ? Ok let's see I'll give you a goat two puppys $6701a 24 pack of Coronas and iron still pick the car for me
Ps don't worry about the heads I'll get it machined here
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Ha ha,
I ordered those pieces from carid.com. hopefully they'll arrive before the weekend.
I ordered those pieces from carid.com. hopefully they'll arrive before the weekend.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
If you want them to really be like stock, the old ones have some part #s stamped on them, I stamped the #s on my new ones which didn't have them. If you choose to do that do it before you install them, on an anvil or big vise, with a hefty hammer.
And another welding tip- Don't weld in one area very long, skip around. That will reduce warping. And let all welds cool slowly., don't blow air or use wet rags.
And another welding tip- Don't weld in one area very long, skip around. That will reduce warping. And let all welds cool slowly., don't blow air or use wet rags.
Last edited:
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Thank you for all the welding tips, hopefully going to get the rest of the pan cut out Friday and prepped Saturday maybe some welds going in Sunday or Monday
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
The brackets did not make the "cut"... too much of a pain to save. I tried. But the entire trunk pan is OUT! What a pain in the butt. This is the last day I can work on the car (its supposed to rain any second) for another two weeks so I wanted to get all those nice shiny metal surfaces painted.
Sand blasted, grinded with a flap wheel, and painted with por 15. Progress !
not exactly the route I wanted to go but it was by far the quickest and easiest method of getting the trunk off that one section.
and there she sits.
Sand blasted, grinded with a flap wheel, and painted with por 15. Progress !
not exactly the route I wanted to go but it was by far the quickest and easiest method of getting the trunk off that one section.
and there she sits.
70B5Cuda
Well-Known Member
looks good! It's so hard to find a car that still wears a uniform color anymore! My advice is to have the existing paint cut/polished. It's amazing how good original enamel paint jobs can be made to look!
I'm sure there is faster ways to cut spot welds, but I use a pneumatic chisel/sheetmetal trimmer and cut out all the sheetmetal between/around subframe rails, crossmember, and supports. I also cut the strip out between the sides of each frame rail channel. All that's left is about a 1/2" wide strip of sheetmetal. Then I use a grinder on a 90 degree angle to shave down each spot weld. When the sheetmetal gets thin it turns blue so stop grinding. At that point you can peel back the thin strip of sheetmetal or use a chisel to drive in from the side to sever any sheetmetal that still connected. Then I use the 90 degree grinder to shave down/dress any remaining bumps. That way, it leaves a nice clean surface without any drill holes.
I'm sure there is faster ways to cut spot welds, but I use a pneumatic chisel/sheetmetal trimmer and cut out all the sheetmetal between/around subframe rails, crossmember, and supports. I also cut the strip out between the sides of each frame rail channel. All that's left is about a 1/2" wide strip of sheetmetal. Then I use a grinder on a 90 degree angle to shave down each spot weld. When the sheetmetal gets thin it turns blue so stop grinding. At that point you can peel back the thin strip of sheetmetal or use a chisel to drive in from the side to sever any sheetmetal that still connected. Then I use the 90 degree grinder to shave down/dress any remaining bumps. That way, it leaves a nice clean surface without any drill holes.
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
flypaper you rock. thanks for all your help in this
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Well sadly that isnt the original paint. The original color was that super light blue with a black vinyl top i believe... something like this except not an r/t. Original paint is still on the hood hinges.
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Cool project and thanks for sharing this here!
I saw your other thread today......Patch what you can and replace what you cant patch.....
Just keep in mind you cant weld through POR.......Get a can of "weld primer" and use on all flat surfaces where welding panels together occurs......
I saw your other thread today......Patch what you can and replace what you cant patch.....
Just keep in mind you cant weld through POR.......Get a can of "weld primer" and use on all flat surfaces where welding panels together occurs......
Beep!Beep!
Well-Known Member
Great score
mopar4don
Well-Known Member
This picture brings up some questions.
What are the 3 things that the arrows are pointing to?
One looks like the fuel filler tube. But it is on the wrong side of the car.
Two what is the "trough" that has what looks like fuel lines?
Three, what is this bracket for? A vapor canister?
I have a 69 Charger and there is nothing like these on my car, so maybe its just a change in the model year????
What are the 3 things that the arrows are pointing to?
One looks like the fuel filler tube. But it is on the wrong side of the car.
Two what is the "trough" that has what looks like fuel lines?
Three, what is this bracket for? A vapor canister?
I have a 69 Charger and there is nothing like these on my car, so maybe its just a change in the model year????
I noticed that stuff too Don. Wonder if it is a California emissions thing?
70VCode
Well-Known Member
Yes that all has to deal with the California Evap system. I have a 70 charger, as does my friend and both cars do not have that system. But both are East Coast cars.
rolling_Thunder
Well-Known Member
That is indeed a CA emissions system - the tank is vented into that long tube which I believe is baffled to allow fuel vapors to expand and then drain back to the tank (or some wizard like stuff) - it is present on most early 70's cars (my 73 challenger has a small baffled tank mounted between the rear shocks for example)
Similar threads
