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trouble removing torsion bar from crossmember

hey guys. I'm trying to remove my torsion bars and then my entire k frame.
Question.....the bolt that determines ride height, does it come all of the way out? I have turned and turned counterclockwise, but it's very difficult, even with a pry bar
There should be a ton of info on this. I keep posting this, so, one more time.
First, get the car safely on jackstands. Remove the torsion bar adjusting bolts. Remove the torsion bar clips on the rear of the torsion bar at the trans crossmember. Remove the upper control arm bumper from the frame. If you don't do this, it will keep some tension on the bars, and will be hard to remove. Unbolt the strut rods. Remove the nut holding the lower control arm to the K member. Using a pry bar, and place the pry bar between the K member, and the lower control arm. Pry the lower control arm to the rear of the car. This will push the torsion bar out through the rear crossmember. Lastly, do a search for your cars service manual, or the closest you can find on this site.
 
Thanks for the reply


my service manual ,1970 coronet, says to remove upper bump stop (mine was pretty much gone), loosen adjusting bolt, remove clip...and push bar out the back.
I just hate to pound away with a 5 pound hammer and it not be prepped and ready

I guess I will keep torquing on the adjusting bolt until it's completely out
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply


my service manual ,1970 coronet, says to remove upper bump stop (mine was pretty much gone), loosen adjusting bolt, remove clip...and push bar out the back.
I just hate to pound away with a 5 pound hammer and it not be prepped and ready

I guess I will keep torquing on the adjusting bolt until it's completely out
Make sure you jack up the lower control arm to take pressure off the adjusting bolt. Otherwise you can strip the threads.
 
thanks
I'm not reusing any of these parts. I am replacing the entire k-member and all of it's components with one that is already rebuilt from another car that I have.
Would this make a difference in how you would go about it?
 
Adjusting bolt being a b---h? Back it off until the bolt and the pad it goes thru flops around. At that point there is no load. If you jack the lower control arm and that bolt takes a seat, back it off some more.
 
Make sure you jack up the lower control arm to take pressure off the adjusting bolt. Otherwise you can strip the threads.
Think you have the jacking up LCR wrong that would be like the car is on the ground, full tension on T-bar.
 
Think you have the jacking up LCR wrong that would be like the car is on the ground, full tension on T-bar.
Not quite. On my cars the lower control arm drops past the point where its aligned with the rear mount hex. So its actually loaded in reverse or backwards. Raising the arm about 4 inches puts that bar close to "neutral". This lets the bar out easier.
 
I'm a quitter. I took the grinder to it. It easily came out the back . I have yet to do the drivers side.

I'm guessing that removing the upper control arm from the fender will prove to be a challenge too

torsion.jpg
 
the driver side torsion bar came out without much effort. I was able to back the tightening bolt out until flopped around inside the lca.
I just need to decide where to mount the engine "holder", then I can unbolt the motor mounts and drop the k frame.
Here's a pic of my expensive "work bench" and the motor holder.
Again.....sorry for the hijack. I really need to start my own build thread.......
work bench.jpg
engine holder.jpg
 
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