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Edelbrock carb cable and return spring

Smokinnjokin

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Gentlemen, I'm having a tough time figuring out the correct spring location and cable routing to provide proper return to idle and full travel.
Currently, I have the spring hooked down here because if i hook it to the bracket, it is way too high to provide good strength to close the throttle. If i use a stiffer spring, the throttle will close properly in the top position but the pedal is ridiculously stiff and does not want to reach WOT.

I also have a rigged throttle cable, it works and provides full travel but the OEM bracket ('79 360 smog motor) is not a great fit. Need to move the cable farther from the carb and the bracket can't move any farther.

Any ideas for my proper P/N spring, return bracket and cable brackets?
127BC422-7550-4DCA-9D8A-9CCAB9679B01.jpeg
 
Gentlemen, I'm having a tough time figuring out the correct spring location and cable routing to provide proper return to idle and full travel.
Currently, I have the spring hooked down here because if i hook it to the bracket, it is way too high to provide good strength to close the throttle. If i use a stiffer spring, the throttle will close properly in the top position but the pedal is ridiculously stiff and does not want to reach WOT.

I also have a rigged throttle cable, it works and provides full travel but the OEM bracket ('79 360 smog motor) is not a great fit. Need to move the cable farther from the carb and the bracket can't move any farther.

Any ideas for my proper P/N spring, return bracket and cable brackets?
View attachment 736624
You can buy a set of different carb return springs at most Autozones. That's what I did. It has different lentghs, styles, etc.
 
Gentlemen, I'm having a tough time figuring out the correct spring location and cable routing to provide proper return to idle and full travel.
Currently, I have the spring hooked down here because if i hook it to the bracket, it is way too high to provide good strength to close the throttle. If i use a stiffer spring, the throttle will close properly in the top position but the pedal is ridiculously stiff and does not want to reach WOT.

I also have a rigged throttle cable, it works and provides full travel but the OEM bracket ('79 360 smog motor) is not a great fit. Need to move the cable farther from the carb and the bracket can't move any farther.

Any ideas for my proper P/N spring, return bracket and cable brackets?
View attachment 736624
Smokin, brother it looks to me in the photo that you have a trans return spring for your throttle return. Here's a photo of my 440 set up/ 727 auto

48 (2).jpg
 
Do you have a FSM? I'm assuming not! That'll show you the correct setup. Good Luck
 
I have been digging through the FSM but not sure how to translate for an edelbrock carb. There are only pictures of 2-barrels, and in the listed parts they only specify engine size and carb (2 or 4 barrel), the springs are only listed by color and # of coils, no description of what carb/engine they go to. Does more coils equal lighter or heavier?
 
I have been digging through the FSM but not sure how to translate for an edelbrock carb. There are only pictures of 2-barrels, and in the listed parts they only specify engine size and carb (2 or 4 barrel), the springs are only listed by color and # of coils, no description of what carb/engine they go to. Does more coils equal lighter or heavier?
Depending on the spring design (compression or extension) and to over simplify the answer, spring rates are determined by the diameter of the wire or in the case of rectangular wire the measurement of the cross section of the wire. The diameter of the coil or amount of coils isn't what determines the spring rate until the spring is subjected to more than 50% compression of it's total spring length, then your into a area which is known as "coil bind" which usually results in spring failure.
 
Depending on the spring design (compression or extension) and to over simplify the answer, spring rates are determined by the diameter of the wire or in the case of rectangular wire the measurement of the cross section of the wire. The diameter of the coil or amount of coils isn't what determines the spring rate until the spring is subjected to more than 50% compression of it's total spring length, then your into a area which is known as "coil bind" which usually results in spring failure.
That makes sense, and also illustrates the fact that the FSM is pretty much no help in identifying the parts needed.
 
I've always had the return spring for the throttle right on the shaft stud.
The return for the kickdown on the end of the sliding bracket. (lighter spring)
Sorry the picture is not the best...

IMG_20171019_221405655.jpg
 
I think you are right, I’ve looked at a lot of pictures and that seems to be the preferred routing.
 
Ok, so spring and bracket situation figured out, can anyone tell me what the adapter that is hooking the throttle cable in the picture up to the big ring on the carb lever? That's what I need.
image.jpeg
 
Not quite.
The lighter spring needs to pull the slotted kickdown lever towards the front of the car.
It should be at the other end of the slot
 
Not quite.
The lighter spring needs to pull the slotted kickdown lever towards the front of the car.
It should be at the other end of the slot
That picture is not of my carb, I am just using it to identify the throttle adapter I need.
 
Ok found a better picture from the Charger

CarterAFB.jpg
 
First thing u have to do I bolt ur bracket into the right position. Ur top bolt looks to be right. The bottom hole where ur spring is also gets bolted to the carb. U need to take the spring off, loosen top bolt, rotate the bottom of ur adaptor towards the back of the car till it lines up with the bottom hole in the carb linkage. Bolt it up with the two bolts and tighten the 2 bolts. The pic I’m posting with the bolt in the bottom is what in talking about. Kim
Then u will have to re adjust ur kd linkage. The proper spring location on the carb is on the pin that ur cable is on. It goes In between the u on the cable and fits on the pin. There is a clip on the inside that holds the cable on. Then the spring hooks in the hole in the bracket at the front above where u have it now.
EC430048-6D81-4317-8D4D-A467E0457619.jpeg 913B3E39-6FDB-4B97-ACAB-ACD79DDD7246.jpeg
 
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First thing u have to do I bolt ur bracket into the right position. Ur top bolt looks to be right. The bottom hole where ur spring is also gets bolted to the carb. U need to take the spring off, loosen top bolt, rotate the bottom of ur adaptor towards the back of the car till it lines up with the bottom hole in the carb linkage. Bolt it up with the two bolts and tighten the 2 bolts. The pic I’m posting with the bolt in the bottom is what in talking about. Kim
Then u will have to re adjust ur kd linkage. The proper spring location on the carb is on the pin that ur cable is on. It goes In between the u on the cable and fits on the pin. There is a clip on the inside that holds the cable on.

Sure enough, you are right it is oriented wrong. Looks like whoever installed it that way because the bolt holes don't line up. And they are oriented such that a new one can't be drilled. So I need to buy the edelbrock brand linkage adaptor.
 
This is how it should be assembled (pic courtesy of Moparts) and the correct Edelbrock part number.

Capture.PNG
This is the later 71 and up set up (ish)
 
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Ok, so spring and bracket situation figured out, can anyone tell me what the adapter that is hooking the throttle cable in the picture up to the big ring on the carb lever? That's what I need.View attachment 737084
This is wrong! nothing goes in that large hole.
The cable, springs and kick down are connected to the throttle cable stud.
 
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Do these pictures help?

20190321_190542.jpg 20190321_190536.jpg
 
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