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oil pump drive shaft

Charged440

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Hello all, I have a 440 I'm putting back together and looking to replace the oil pump drive shaft, it already has a new bushing installed and sized. Does anybody have any insight as to which of the available shafts to stay away from if any? The prices are all over the place, milodon $141, Mopar $114 or sealed power for $49, considering you get what you pay for I'm assuming the Sealed power one is junk. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
 
If it is a roller cam, then the drive with bronze gear is needed. If a cast cam, the regular drive is what you want. I would check 440 Source for the stock type, I have used the Bronze gear version from 440 source and it seemed to wear quicker than the more expensive Mopar performance version, but that was in two different engines, so not a good comparison to rely on.
 
I just looked at Summit and the Melling unit is affordable and they have a good reputation for quality. I cannot remember what i used in my solid lifter motor.
 
I put a Milodon because the hex tapers and the into the shaft, the tip is hardened for greater strength some others may use the same design. The stock design sometimes shears off with high volume pumps, MO. Think a Mellonized gear will work on flat tappet or roller cams.
 
I've used the Mopar Performance & Milodon bronze gear for camshaft insurance on both roller & solid lifter cams. If you have really high pressure valve springs, keep an eye on the slot that drives the distributor, that can deform. Also ran Direct Connection & TRW drives in the mid '70's with solid cams. You sure want the hardened tip version.
 
First off you need to know which one you need since I suspect you are not comparing apples to apples. There are three different lengths of oil pump drive shafts and there are two different materials so there are a total of six different part numbers to choose from. If it is just a normal rebuild type of build then you need the short or regular shaft with a steel gear. Those are fairly inexpensive. Melling should be fine or any other rebuilder type of brand. For a racing engine with a roller cam and a Milodon oil pump then you need the extra long shaft with the bronze gear. Those are fairly expensive.
 
I will always use the MP pinned unit. Regardless of the pil pump used. If you use the HV pump, you NEED the pinned gear and tapered shaft. As was said - a billet roller cam needs the bronze gear. Milodon pumps have their own length too IIRC.
 
I will always use the MP pinned unit. Regardless of the pil pump used. If you use the HV pump, you NEED the pinned gear and tapered shaft. As was said - a billet roller cam needs the bronze gear. Milodon pumps have their own length too IIRC.
Not so: hughs engines has a steel geared shaft for either cam, will work w/ cast or billet. I have one on my 440/505 wedge w/ a billet street roller.
 
Not so: hughs engines has a steel geared shaft for either cam, will work w/ cast or billet. I have one on my 440/505 wedge w/ a billet street roller.

"Back in the day" the reason to use the bronze gear instead of the steel was the cost of a billet roller core. Replacing the bronze gear, needed was far cheaper than a new billet roller cam. Both gears "work"with either cast or roller cams.
 
Yup. I don’t run Hughes crap so I wouldn’t know that...lol
 
Thanks guys, This is a street build with a hydraulic flat tappet cam so I'm good with the steel gear. I did notice the differences in length depending on what pump I have, and it sounds like a proper length Melling or M/P will fit the bill here, thanks again.
 
I got this on the pic in my disassembled 383 with a Melling HV oil pump.

I am making a stroker out of it with a hyd cam.
Didn’t see any part number on the shaft. It is tapered and pinned (as seen on the pic). Can I reuse this one with my build?

B96ECD53-06BB-4F62-822B-C6A3C0E6932A.jpeg
 
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