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Castle Nuts

El.Padrino

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Tried the search but didn‘t find the satisfied answer.

On the front suspension of my B body I found two types of castle nuts (as shown on photo).

I don‘t recall where the factory used the left type castle nut and the right.
And what was the reason or difference for each type?

I know new ones come with Moog parts but just want to know it.

What are the correct colors for paint inspection marks on these front suspension nuts? For year 1968.
There was more than one color I remember but after 50 years of old grime and dirt they were barely visible for me or discolored.

And why the paint markings? Didn‘t the cottar pin alone provide enough information to say visible “part is torqued to final specs“ at the assembly line? Feels redundant to me.
 
All the front suspension components were original factory line equipment it was born with. The downside was the joints were all worn out and not reusable. That being said the castle nuts of carters pins are factory line examples. The three post castle nuts were on everything except the lower ball joint and the 2 bolts attaching the lower ball joint to the spindle/backing plate.

The original finish was black zinc. The paint markings varied based on build plant. It was a QC check and easier to see and count the number of colored daubs.......As far as colors for 68. I don't want to guess. I just know what was correct for 69.....
 
If you are going for a concourse resto get the big Yellow book by Dave Wise it lists most if not all fasteners used. That being said there were different suppliers with some different markings ect. Lets say Joe Blow is working on the rt side suspension and his brother is working n the left side. Joe runs out of abc castle nuts and gets a new box from xyz but his brother still has abc, see where I am going with this. I would think all tierod nuts are the same and idler pittman might be different. The book is spendy but lots of good info that will drive you crazy in a good way. Paint marks are a whole nother animal but the info is out there. Frank Baldason is one name that comes to mind.
 
I just put my front suspension together. The tie rod ends used the nut on the left and either the Pittman or idler arm had the three post nut. I couldn't remember which one after I took it off, so I put it back on the idler, which is where I thought I removed it, lol. Kinda would like to know the difference
 
If you are going for a concourse resto get the big Yellow book by Dave Wise it lists most if not all fasteners used. That being said there were different suppliers with some different markings ect. Lets say Joe Blow is working on the rt side suspension and his brother is working n the left side. Joe runs out of abc castle nuts and gets a new box from xyz but his brother still has abc, see where I am going with this. I would think all tierod nuts are the same and idler pittman might be different. The book is spendy but lots of good info that will drive you crazy in a good way. Paint marks are a whole nother animal but the info is out there. Frank Baldason is one name that comes to mind.
Dave's book is a great reference but it is not a "how to" build a concourse restoration.........His books don't individually break down the plant variations.......It does provide great information and Dave W. is a phenomenal guy but there will be no single resource on how to build a concourse car......The best resources are the cars that achieved concourse gold judging and met the high standards of the strictest judges.....

The number one best resource is the car itself....Clean an inspect parts appropriately to possibly reveal markings etc....Inspection markings as a whole are not judged because there is no consensus and no clear reference from the plants.....
 
Dave's book is a great reference but it is not a "how to" build a concourse restoration.........His books don't individually break down the plant variations.......It does provide great information and Dave W. is a phenomenal guy but there will be no single resource on how to build a concourse car......The best resources are the cars that achieved concourse gold judging and met the high standards of the strictest judges.....

The number one best resource is the car itself....Clean an inspect parts appropriately to possibly reveal markings etc....Inspection markings as a whole are not judged because there is no consensus and no clear reference from the plants.....
Yeah I got ahead of my self on the resto part and stand corrected. I see when GYC dose a car they put paint here and there. Where do they get the info? Just accumulated knowledge ?
 
Yeah I got ahead of my self on the resto part and stand corrected. I see when GYC dose a car they put paint here and there. Where do they get the info? Just accumulated knowledge ?
GYC does not do true Concourse restorations.......not even close to one....Sure they have the DW books ion hand and present freshly painted cars on TV.......when will they bring one to a concourse judged event?

His info I don’t know where he gets it and I don’t even care.....most of it is inaccurate and a lot of details on his builds are inaccurate........that is if he is claiming to build them like the day they rolled out, right?

So would you detail your car based on someone who has not produced a true concourse car and also provides information that’s not a 100% accurate....

Or would you be more open to the guys that have built they cars and won a gold, silver or bronze award? Guys that have done the research and produced examples based on that....

These types of builds are more than decoding a build sheet, fender tag and vin stamping......is that not what they typically talk about in the show as a whole? Or trying to stump Tony based on codes?
 
My car didn't use either type of castle nut. Instead, a regular nut was capped with a stamped retainer that allowed far more adjustment for tightening - instead of just to the nearest 1/6 of a turn.
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That nut lock is for the spindle nuts.

Castle nuts? Usually look at the nut base to slot height, for location, so the cotter pin actually locks it. There's also several designs of castle nuts.
 
All the front suspension components were original factory line equipment it was born with. The downside was the joints were all worn out and not reusable. That being said the castle nuts of carters pins are factory line examples. The three post castle nuts were on everything except the lower ball joint and the 2 bolts attaching the lower ball joint to the spindle/backing plate.

The original finish was black zinc. The paint markings varied based on build plant. It was a QC check and easier to see and count the number of colored daubs.......As far as colors for 68. I don't want to guess. I just know what was correct for 69.....

Why is MOOG then considered to be "correct"? All the nuts that come with their suspension parts are the 6-post type.

What grade are the 3-post VS the 6-post nuts?
 
Why is MOOG then considered to be "correct"? All the nuts that come with their suspension parts are the 6-post type.

What grade are the 3-post VS the 6-post nuts?
I’m lost i we talking about original factory line parts or aftermarket?

I am only talking about original factory line parts in 69.......
 
I’m lost i we talking about original factory line parts or aftermarket?

I am only talking about original factory line parts in 69.......

I am sorry, yea only talking about factory line parts and fasteners, ..

They probably didn‘t change (a lot) from 68-70. I am unaware of front suspension changes between these years. But guess tie rods, ball joints etc and nuts will be the same throughout (and longer).
 
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