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Engine build for my 68 Charger

tmaleck

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Since the engine rebuild is in parallel with the body work, I figured to put it in its own thread. I started with a 73 'J' 440 std. block. The initial plan was just to do freeze plugs, freshen the heads and put it back in with a fresh coat of paint and FiTech fuel injection. Once the heads were off, that plan went out the window. I don't have a ton of before pictures, its the usual neglected engine.

before_engine_as_is.jpg
before_engine_shop.jpg
before_left_manifold.jpg


Once I had pulled the heads, it was obvious fresh heads would be pointless without doing the full rebuild. So while the block and heads went to the machine shop, I ordered ARP main studs, rod bolts and head bolts. Once the shop had everything apart and checked, the heads (906's) were going to be over 1k in parts and labor. I opted for a set of sidewinder closed chamber heads. I went with the 10 degree locks and retainers as well. While I was at it, might as well get everything else and do it right. I went with the Comp Cams Nostalgia Plus cam and high bleed lifters, Wiseco Tru-Street flat top forged pistons, house brand Marsh Performance adjustable rockers and Clevite bearings. I got it all from Marsh Performance, Todd really knows his stuff. I added the 6 Qt. Hemi oil pan and pickup too.

So far, I have the rotating assembly in, the cam and lifters are next. I hope to have the engine complete with the Proflo 4 and serpentine drive bolted on in the next three or four weeks. Plan is to install on K-Frame complete from underneath.
block_painted_first_coat.jpg
rotating_assembly_done.jpg
left_bank_done.jpg

More to follow
Tim

engine_stamp.jpg before_engine_underside.jpg before_left_manifold.jpg before_engine_as_is.jpg
 
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I like the old M/T valve covers, but you need a breather. The pvc valve has to suck in air from somewhere.
 
I like the old M/T valve covers, but you need a breather. The pvc valve has to suck in air from somewhere.

Get rid of the plastic fuel filter too. You can get a metal one that will fit right in its place. I like to get all the rubber fuel hoses away from the motor area too, for safety sake.
 
Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. The engine will look a whole lot different when it's ready to go back in.
 
I got the oil pump, cam and timing chain in last weekend. My balancer is starting to fail, so I ordered the SFI fluid balancer and ARP bolt from 440 source. Seems like there is still something every weekend I need to buy.
 
I got the oil pump, cam and timing chain in last weekend. My balancer is starting to fail, so I ordered the SFI fluid balancer and ARP bolt from 440 source. Seems like there is still something every weekend I need to buy.
Money pit, but it keeps ya outa trouble..right
 
Looking good, funny how the plan flies out the window so quick. My plan was initially heads and can swap. Now I have a $15,000 stroker lol
 
Not much assembly work this weekend, mostly prep. Fuel pump blockoff had to be sized to fit, it was too large. The timing cover seal was a bear, it too almost an hour to get it out. Heads are ready to go on, so maybe next weekend.
timing_seal_new_in.jpg
timing_seal_out.jpg
fuel_blockoff2.jpg
 
The 440src balancer is nice because it's marked to 50 degrees. Unless you're real lucky be prepared to have it honed out though, .001 was good on the couple of them I've used.
 
Got the lifters, heads, valley pan and timing cover put on this weekend. Starting to look like an engine again. Still have a ways to go, valve gear, oil pan, windage tray water pump and front dress. I'll set up the dist drive, but it'll have to come back out for pre-run pump priming. Getting closer.
engine_both_heads_valley_cover_on.jpg
eng_timing_cover_install.jpg

Tim
 
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