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Any input or alternatives to this Superbird Conversion kit?

Superbird front end for when you need it ..



ORIGINAL SUPERBIRD NOSE CONE, HOOD AND 2 FENDERS FOR SALE

« on: November 13, 2017, 03:28:47 PM »
I have acquired an original Superbird nose, hood and 2 fenders from a body shop that has had them for 20+ years in storage. According to the body shop, they all came off the same car which is possible since they're all orange on the inside. They are in very good condition and would need very little work to make excellent. The nose has a few pin holes on the bottom center section and a little rust around the bottom openings but was never damaged/bent as far as I can tell. The hood and fenders are solid and also seems to have never been damaged, dented or bent. As you can see the hood and fenders are primed gray which is how I got them. The undersides are not primed though and it seems that they have not been patched either.

Needless to say, if you are doing a restoration to an original car this is a must have and it is a no brainer that it will add/retain the value to what is a very high dollar car. Not to mention that the fit will be like factory, unlike the reproduced parts that are out there. Also, there is a big difference in having factory original parts over a 70 Coronet hood and fenders that are cut and welded to make them into SB parts.

After doing some research on availability and previous sales of original parts, I am asking the following.

Nose Cone- $6000
Hood - $4000
Fenders- $2500 each.

I am open to selling them at a discount for a package deal to one person, but will sell by the piece too.

Due to the size and fragility of these parts, local pickup is preferred. However, I will assist in custom crating these parts for shipment, all at the buyer's expense, if they are not local. I am located in northern NJ, next to NYC.

I have detailed higher resolution pictures that I can email. Private message me on the forum with any questions or offers.

Thanks for the ad DC.COM !!!!

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Superbird front end for when you need it ..



ORIGINAL SUPERBIRD NOSE CONE, HOOD AND 2 FENDERS FOR SALE

« on: November 13, 2017, 03:28:47 PM »
I have acquired an original Superbird nose, hood and 2 fenders from a body shop that has had them for 20+ years in storage. According to the body shop, they all came off the same car which is possible since they're all orange on the inside. They are in very good condition and would need very little work to make excellent. The nose has a few pin holes on the bottom center section and a little rust around the bottom openings but was never damaged/bent as far as I can tell. The hood and fenders are solid and also seems to have never been damaged, dented or bent. As you can see the hood and fenders are primed gray which is how I got them. The undersides are not primed though and it seems that they have not been patched either.

Needless to say, if you are doing a restoration to an original car this is a must have and it is a no brainer that it will add/retain the value to what is a very high dollar car. Not to mention that the fit will be like factory, unlike the reproduced parts that are out there. Also, there is a big difference in having factory original parts over a 70 Coronet hood and fenders that are cut and welded to make them into SB parts.

After doing some research on availability and previous sales of original parts, I am asking the following.

Nose Cone- $6000
Hood - $4000
Fenders- $2500 each.

I am open to selling them at a discount for a package deal to one person, but will sell by the piece too.

Due to the size and fragility of these parts, local pickup is preferred. However, I will assist in custom crating these parts for shipment, all at the buyer's expense, if they are not local. I am located in northern NJ, next to NYC.

I have detailed higher resolution pictures that I can email. Private message me on the forum with any questions or offers.

Thanks for the ad DC.COM !!!!

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I actually corresponded with that guy.
For just the cost of the parts I could finally build my stroker/or/HP 440.
Thanks though...
 
Another reason why I'm sitting on the fence now about stroker vs just a built 440...
My 71 440 motor has the steel crank with heavy rods. I'm guessing that the crank (it would be checked for cracks during the build, of course) would be fine, right?
I mean if I couldn't use my current forged steel crank, well I would go with a stroker setup for sure if I had to buy a new crank.
I would also believe that modern technology in connecting rods would mandate an upgrade there, right?
Did you check out the link to the cap and girdle set I'm sold on? It really is different and in my and my local engine builder's experience a better concept for strength from a materials and engineering design standpoint.
If you’re trying to gain some power and be cost conscious, why not just start with a top end swap to the TF240 setup, maybe a cam change “while you’re in there” and do it all yourself? You wouldn’t even have to pull the engine. Then, you could save for the stroker and build the short block later on as funds allow. After the top end swap, you might not even want/need the stroker.
The comment on center counterweights on a crankshaft was just that it’s smoother running with less crank flex and less harmonics transfered to the block. If you can afford a center counterweighted crank, then most likely you won’t be installing it into a stock block anyway....
 
If you’re trying to gain some power and be cost conscious, why not just start with a top end swap to the TF240 setup
I actually discussed that on the forum and with IQ52. Jim mainly was my reference for what I thought was a good, efficient value for moving forward.
Basically I would buy the TF 240s with the springs that I would ultimately use with my next motor, remove those springs when I got the heads, and install my current CompCams springs on the 240s. It took a little back and forth, and I had to list the part numbers and description, and Jim listed some parts for me to get to make that all work with my current motor,
and in the end we agreed that would be a great way to gain some significant power on my current mill to keep it interesting yet not spend money twice on springs, etc.
I am inclined to keep my existing cam, especially if it is what I and others suspect: It's definitely a Purple Stripe cam, and we suspect it is the 292°/.509 so that would really come alive with better heads than the stock 452s I have on it.
 
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Hell, I'd go for the Superbird conversion with a select variety of vendor parts. Life is short.
Just my 2cents but Id not do anything irreversible to an authentic 440/6 car like Bios.
A Satty or 383 RR sure.
 
10-30 years from now...if there's still gasoline to fuel our cars...big IF...and everything with 4 wheels hasnt gone electric or been banned, all those matching numbers really mean is in the whole scheme of things...not a helluva alot, maybe money in the bank for old age but thats about it..IMO.
 
Just my 2cents but Id not do anything irreversible to an authentic 440/6 car like Bios.
A Satty or 383 RR sure.

if you look at Bio's car
the angle from a purist has been crossed long ago
didn't he toss his original seats?

my Brother is doing it to a 383 4 speed grabber car
and feels sort of guilty but if you look for another 70 satty to start with (btw he has)
most want a arm and a leg for them these days.

I will say if you go the stinger/janak route for a nose
be prepared to do a bit of fabrication
these aren't drop together pieces
and they don't come with every piece
and also there is a lot of attention to detail as to to how the thing goes together.
been studying many pics of original cars.

I can also say the Janak stuff isn't cheap at all these days
just got his latest catalog and DOUBLE YIKES is all I will say.
 
Bio sold the bench seat and it was really nice... I used a highly optioned, matching numbers B5, bucket seat, console, auto roadrunner for my clone. Numbers didn’t mean anything to me. I didn’t pay much for it so I used what I had. It might have been cheaper to restore it, lol.
 
Bio sold the bench seat and it was really nice... I used a highly optioned, matching numbers B5, bucket seat, console, auto roadrunner for my clone. Numbers didn’t mean anything to me. I didn’t pay much for it so I used what I had. It might have been cheaper to restore it, lol.


When I bought mine in 1982,a clone would have cost me ten times what I paid for it.

2208.jpg
 
I remember seeing them from 8k to 15k in Hemmings motor news in the late 70's
you could buy a lot of B body for 2k back then as people were moving on to the next gen of cars
I remember drooling over the ads it was one of the few places at that time to find parts for my Bee
as the dealers parts were drying up and year one showed up a few years later
they have only climbed in value since then
 
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