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1968 Coronet pre-purchase inspection

snooprob

snooprob

Well-Known Member
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Location
Crest Hill Il
Hey guys I am in the process off hunting down a 68 Coronet for myself.
I am looking for a car with zero rust, rot, and paint bubbles.
I have never owned a 68 Coronet before so I am here to ask you guys what I should be looking for?
Do these cars have common trouble spots that I should be aware of?

Thanks,

Rob
 
Are you looking for a restored/clean car or original? #s matching? There is a wide range between the two.
Trouble spots- lower rear 1/4s, trunk floor, frame rails, lower corners of rear glass.
 
Ottawa Valley car.... from the land of salted roads!
apr52016smf.jpg
 
I guess I could have been more specific with my question.
I am looking for insight on where the trouble spots are on this model.
I am trying to arm myself with as much info as possible because I am talking to a guy now who may be selling me my next Mopar. The problem is that he and the car are 2100 miles away. So I am looking at airfare to go check this car out then the cost of shipping. I've never done this before so I am feeling leery at best.
I truly want an RT or an RT clone (love that tail panel) but I'd be happy with any model. I am not a numbers matching guy and I want to drive this car on nice days. I am not looking for a project. I enjoy the mechanics of a car just not the bodywork.
 
What's your budget? You'll always pay a premium for a rust free car.

A '68 Coronet is going to be just like any other muscle-era B Body Mopar, the unit bodies were the same from '68-'70. Most of the typical rust spots have been mentioned already.

I looked at a 69 two years ago that had frame issues but looked great in pictures. I even sent a deposit to the guy but cancelled the deal after looking at it in person and saw that the rear frame rail had been welded back together. Was hard to tell in the pics he sent through email.

'68s seem to be a little less common but also less desirable than '69 to some so they're not out of reach for nice examples.
 
Hi, wish you the best of luck in your search, some here say, and I agree, that the only car with no rust is the one that never been used, a free rust mopar is almost impossible to find, the common areas are the trunk floor, window corners, Dutchman panel, ask me how I know, one car may look good in the outside but only after you strip down the car you'll have a good look of the current condition, also check the frame rails, fix a mopar is a money pit.
MOPAR:
MOSTLY
OLD
PARTS
RUSTED
 
20171109_094315.jpg
My experience in looking for a 68 R/T or even just a 68 Coronet were other than the normal rust areas mentioned are the rear tail panel and deck lid. It's almost impossible to find a replacement deck lid. I sold a 68 Coronet 4-5 years back because of not being able to locate a trunk or deck lid. The other areas already mentioned were very fixable on this car. After much searching I finally found a matching numbers 440, 4-speed R/T about 3 years ago. It was restored (at) in the past and at present I'm gathering a few parts for a proper restoration.
20171109_094315.jpg
 
rmchrgr said:
'68s seem to be a little less common but also less desirable than '69 to some so they're not out of reach for nice examples
Click to expand...
True 68's are less common, but I disagree, I'll take a 68 over a 69 any day. The 69's are a little more attractive at the front, but the look from the rear is like a dollar over a dime in my opinion.
 
Ask for detailed pictures. Have the pictures to be scrutinized from guys who knows these cars. Pictures can hide a lots of sins and issues, but if the pictures shows lack of attention to common issues with routing of wires and hoses, cobbled up interiors and such, then what else is hiding behind the fresh paint and body filler.

Possibly recruit a Mopar guy from the area in which the car resides, go and take a look at the car. Possibly someone may already know the car.

Personally, I feel it is better to save your dollars to purchase as much of a car as you can afford. Unless you can do most of the labor, even semi decent drivers can turn into endless money pits. Find that finished car that you really like and have someone that knows these cars check it out for you. You will be much happier in the end. Good luck with the chase, it can be a lots of fun.
 
Jerry Hall said:
True 68's are less common, but I disagree, I'll take a 68 over a 69 any day. The 69's are a little more attractive at the front, but the look from the rear is like a dollar over a dime in my opinion.
Click to expand...
I can't decide so i got one of each. Problem solved.
 
I agree above. Regardless of someone’s wallet size. You’re not going to find an absolute rust free B-body. The few out there are going to demand huge dollars. Im willing to bet 90% of the fully restored cars out there have a panel replaced, rot cut out somewhere, a small floor section cut out and repaired, etc. All of these points are ok to expect as a buyer. As long as it has been done well enough for your expectations and quality of repair work match the asking price. All of these cars on Ebay, YouTube, etc, etc. That everyone thinks are absolutely flawless. I guarantee most have these repairs. A 30-40k car that has been restored well is a very reasonable price for these cars. And that price range will have at least one or 2 of these small repairs somewhere. Not a big deal in my opinion at that price range. To me, a 50k- 60k car better be absolutely flawless. But, I guarantee quite a few of the cars in that price range have a small repair or 2 somewhere too. Just on a smaller scale.
 
Many in the $20k range may not be repaired at all; either deliberately or to mislead someone there may be paint, bondo or tar over rust and damage. I prefer an “honest “ car, presented with its warts as it is.
 
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