Engine and trans install?

Charger Dana · Jul 26, 2018

Drop it on. Just like the factory. We used a chain hoist, put the engine on an engine dolly (then jack-carefully).

I’ve done all the other ways and this was easiest.

Charger Dana · Jul 26, 2018

I should add that if you’re definitely dropping it in the level is nice, but not necessary if you have two people. And a 4 speed is way easier to install after vs a 727. A hoist is nice, but I’ve done both on the floor and wrestling in a 727 is unpleasant and in comparison a A833 is not bad. Also depends on the car, 67 B body has a tight engine bay vs 74 road runner. Best of luck! Let us know what you decided and how it went.

wsutard · Jul 26, 2018

OP here. Got my engine in. Bought a harbor freight load leveler. Ended up ditching that due to the height of the lift and the jankyness of the unit.

My buddy and I just muscled it down and in.

However, as we had it pointed down I was under the car pulling the trans tail down and saw oil dripping from the flywheel. I didn’t have any oil drips during my dyno session. I guess my upper seal isn’t up to snuff?

andyf · Jul 29, 2018

I use a tilt plate on the carb pad. Makes the job super easy, especially if you have an overhead crane in your shop.

CoronetDarter · Jul 29, 2018

andyf said:
I use a tilt plate on the carb pad. Makes the job super easy, especially if you have an overhead crane in your shop.View attachment 631846

Beautiful Valiant. I really like the boxy styling. Don't see many around, or even for sale.

Ginja · Mar 29, 2019

Thread revival... I've a 383 that I'm about to refit. It came out with a cherry picker and on its own - no headers, trans, carb etc. I never really planned to take it out, just parts kept coming off... When I re-install, if I install as one unit - with trans and starter attached and with the car raised slightly for clearance does anyone know if I can also achieve this with my nightmare Hooker Headers attached (even loosely), or will I have to muscle them in after the fact and raise and lower each side accordingly. I'd love to fit it in one go! I recall they conflicted with the torsion bar but not exactly how. Thanks!

matthon · Mar 29, 2019

I pulled/replaced a poly 318 from a 64, no trans. The crane was right against the front bumper, what a pain.

To do the headers, once the engine was in, motor mounts loose, car on stands, I used the crane to pick the engine up one side at a time.

No jack under the car leaves room.

I've done motor/trans in one shot from above on an a-body and it was not easy, by myself. The shifter was in the way the entire time, but I didn't want to put it on under the car.

This time, with a bb/4 speed I think I'll put the engine in with the bell/clutch on it, and install trans/shifter from below.

Ginja · Mar 29, 2019

matthon said:
I pulled/replaced a poly 318 from a 64, no trans. The crane was right against the front bumper, what a pain.

To do the headers, once the engine was in, motor mounts loose, car on stands, I used the crane to pick the engine up one side at a time.

No jack under the car leaves room.

I've done motor/trans in one shot from above on an a-body and it was not easy, by myself. The shifter was in the way the entire time, but I didn't want to put it on under the car.

This time, with a bb/4 speed I think I'll put the engine in with the bell/clutch on it, and install trans/shifter from below.

Yeah, I'm trying to do too much in one go. Its just so easy with the engine out... The crane was close to the bumper but we had just enough leeway, and the load balancer worked amazingly, I wondered if I could make my life easier...

andyf · Mar 29, 2019

It all depends on what tools you have in your shop. I've pulled engines a bunch of different ways over the past 30 years and it all comes down to the tools and the setup. On a race car with the core support cut the engine and trans will come out or go in very quickly. On a fully restored car it is better to go in from below. But either way you need the right tools.

funnykarman · Mar 29, 2019

On my 65 AFX car with the Hemi with the deep rear sump pan , I cut the radiator support out and used a second one from a 4 door parts car that had been picked over before I got it . Used Sert nuts to attach the second one in place , I used 4 per side hoping to replace a little of the front core strength and keep flex down . I used the original frame rails rather that using 2x3 tubing like they did in the factory cars. With the motor moved back 2 inches and using a motor plate that will attach to the upper clam shells as in the pic's . Will need to build a motor limiter to keep it from moving back and forth . Hope this helps someone with install issues . In the last pic of the engine plate you can see that I outlined the housing gasket with black magic marker . I will take my long grinder and match the holes with the gaskets . I have already done this to the housing and the block . It looks like the holes in the motor plate would cause water restriction flow . This is a street car . Let me know what your thoughts on this are . Thanks John P.S. I am going to change out all hardware on the car when it comes apart to be painted !

Ginja · Apr 1, 2019

For future reference. We re-installed the engine (383) over the weekend with the trans attached. Two people with a 2t hoist/cherry picker fitted with a leveler and with the leveler bolted to the cylinder heads (sorry we didn't take pics) and the car raised. We had the rad support fitted. Was really, really tight as we couldn't get the angle we needed with the leveler/setup we had and had to remove the engine mounts to get it over the line. Next time I will install individually. I'm fixing previous owners mishaps as I go with this car and the final insult (having taken the engine out to fix a broken trans mount lug) was one of the header bolts turned out to have a stripped thread. So now the cylinder head has to come off to get it helicoiled. And there was me thinking I'd have it running by now... My fault for not re-checking everything - live and learn!

Daves69 · Apr 1, 2019

Ginja said:
........Was really, really tight as we couldn't get the angle we needed with the leveler/setup we had and had to remove the engine mounts to get it over the line. Next time I will install individually...…...

Were you just lifting the back end of the car to cut down the engine/trans angle? The main issue I have with my Abody is a deep oil pan to K-member clearance. (FW headers BTW)

Ginja · Apr 6, 2019

Daves69 said:
Were you just lifting the back end of the car to cut down the engine/trans angle? The main issue I have with my Abody is a deep oil pan to K-member clearance. (FW headers BTW)

No, we had the front end of the car raised for ground clearance of the output shaft on the ground. I had to remove the engine mounts for the extra clearance needed then it slotted in nicely.

Engine and trans install?

Charger Dana

Well-Known Member

Charger Dana

Well-Known Member

wsutard

Well-Known Member

andyf

Well-Known Member

CoronetDarter

FBBO Gold Member

Ginja

Well-Known Member

matthon

Well-Known Member

Ginja

Well-Known Member

andyf

Well-Known Member

funnykarman

Well-Known Member

Ginja

Well-Known Member

Daves69

Well-Known Member

Ginja

Well-Known Member

Similar threads