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Headers for a 1973 Roadrunner 318

rigogarcia

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hello folks,

I got my car 6 years ago and it came already with long tube headers, I can see they are not in good shape because they were hitting the ground somehow. Now my roadrunner has been fully restored and it's time to replace some things under the hood, like valve covers, headers and more.
I know that for shorty headers I will to replace my starter for a mini tci starter, however my starter is in really good shape so I will choose the long headers. I would really appreciate your help on this to pick the right pair of headers for my car.
Thanks in advance.
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What is your budget ? TTI are costly but the best out there as they make headers for Mopars only.Dougs are also good but not sure of the ground clearance. I've used the TTI shorty small block headers and their complete exhaust on a A body. They were the easiest header install I've ever done. For cheapies,Jegs are quite good but not if you like your car lower than stock.
 
I believe hooker super comp does not go under the tie rod
 
If you can afford it, go with TTI, you will have to get a mini starter, and invert the shift linkage on your 727. The mini starter that works great is for a 95 Dodge Dakota, so its not expensive. Also, you will have to get new cooler lines for your trans to radiator as the standard ones will not route around your TTI headers.

Here are the ones I used on my 340 RR and a couple of underside shots!
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If you can afford it, go with TTI, you will have to get a mini starter, and invert the shift linkage on your 727. The mini starter that works great is for a 95 Dodge Dakota, so its not expensive. Also, you will have to get new cooler lines for your trans to radiator as the standard ones will not route around your TTI headers.

Here are the ones I used on my 340 RR and a couple of underside shots!
View attachment 744035
View attachment 744036
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So the cost of the already expensive headers is driven up even more by the addition of all of the other required new pieces, no thanks I’ll stick with Hooker and Heddman.
 
Yeah, I had good luck with Heddman on my old 73 Charger. The installation isn't easy, but it's not that tough if you loosen one engine mount at a time and lean the engine over. Also, you can use a factory-style mini starter (non needed, but cheap enough at a part store) and I'd recommend just putting one in while you're at it. If you're low on cash, used headers will work just fine too.
 
I like the product, but yes, I may have gone another direction, but 6 years ago, this was all the rage and I jumped on them, and it is what it is, but I don't have any complaints with them.
 
The only people who don't like TTI are the people who can't afford them. Cheap is never quality and quality is never cheap.....I can't afford to go cheap. Cheap is too expensive when you are all done. JMO...My TTI are over 15 years old and still look like new and don't leak.
 
I’ve never had TTI’s and I promise you I can afford them. The 73 Charger had Heddman headers on it when I got it and I don’t replace things that aren’t broken. My A-body has Hooker headers on it that are over 20 years old so longevity isn’t a byproduct of cost.
 
I believe hooker super comp does not go under the tie rod

No mini starter required and no mods for slap stick.

...but the ceramic version is just as expensive as TTI
 
Factory HP manifolds will handle quite a bit before they choke out a motor. I know, not what you are asking, but race parts are for race cars. Too bad the magnum manifolds won't fit the later b-bodies.
 
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