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proportioning valve rebuild

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rich hourigan

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HI, i am restoring a 67 GTX, i would like to keep as many of the original parts as possible so is there a company that will rebuild my prop valve as well as the Texas shaped valve... my car has power front disc and drum rear. i know i can get the repops from different sources but i'd prefer to have an expert rebuild my originals mechanically and cosmetic as well...Thank you .. Rich
 
I have had bad luck with the repro proportioning valves. As long as it's not gushing fluid out the side of it, maybe just use soak it & work it around in some fresh brake fluid to clean it? You don't want any carburetor cleaner or anything like that in your brake system...not even a little bit.
 
rich hourigan said:
HI, i am restoring a 67 GTX, i would like to keep as many of the original parts as possible so is there a company that will rebuild my prop valve as well as the Texas shaped valve... my car has power front disc and drum rear. i know i can get the repops from different sources but i'd prefer to have an expert rebuild my originals mechanically and cosmetic as well...Thank you .. Rich
Click to expand...
There is a company and they do all of my brake work.....

The web address is in post #55

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-gtx-restoration.127388/page-3#post-910631174
 
So 67 GTX Factory front disc brake cars,( first-year available on a b body )came with a prop valve as well as the Texas shaped valve that's helpful information to those of us with other B bodies that want to duplicate that type of brake system . A couple of pics might even be appreciated :asskiss:
 
thanks for the replies guys, purplebeeper the csr sat for 30 plus years in a barn so im not sure if it leaks or not, so I want to be sure the internals are clean.. moparnation, as usual that's the info I was looking for, you da man.. joe 66 the car is completely disassembled so I wont be able to show you the brake system all together but I guess I could take a picture of the valves for you if that would help....
 
rich hourigan said:
thanks for the replies guys, purplebeeper the csr sat for 30 plus years in a barn so im not sure if it leaks or not, so I want to be sure the internals are clean.. moparnation, as usual that's the info I was looking for, you da man.. joe 66 the car is completely disassembled so I wont be able to show you the brake system all together but I guess I could take a picture of the valves for you if that would help....
Click to expand...
Thanks I know that pictures of the setup are available online and like on ram man so it's not necessary
 
66 and 67 had a two piece system

the "Texas" valve is a more common reference to the 71 and up combo valves that do kind of look like Texas.
 
...and I'm convinced that "proportioning" was done by wheel cylinder/caliper bore size and not by any "valve".
 
The first component under the MC is the distribution block which is also the differential pressure device for your brake warning. It is a simple device with a slug and some seals. It was on all cars through 67-70 and can be easily rebuilt. In fact there is a Ford guy who sells the seals and O-rings for these parts including KH stuff since ford also used it. That will be simple to restore or replace with original as long as you can get your correct date code. Or save housing and install guts from a never version if they got damaged from water corrosion (springs)

The proportioning valve is also a pretty simple valve to repair or replace. It also comes part easily and you can salvage parts from a good one if yours is damaged.
Only the power disc brake cars had this proportioning valve. Drum/Drum did not.

I also endorse BW for the rebuild MC, they did mine both a hemi and non hemi version.

Your bigger issue is the front disc. If worn/damaged your not going to find two piece assembly if this is an oem restoration. You have to save studs and hub. There is one company making the rotor. You need your hub and studs though. The Bendix 4 piston caliper are also more expensive and harder to restore, but can be done.

Next is do you have the correct MC, the date code bail tag, and correct cap with correct marking. Available, but harder to find the early Bendix disc stuff especially since 67 was the first year with Bendix MC and finding an unmarked MC is extremely hard to do. Dated codes started in late 69 or 70. Good luck with your project and the service manual is a good resource on now your brakes work, along with the Master Training documents you can find on line.
 
Dragon Slayer, thanks for the response.... i have all the original brake hardware, its all been restored and rebuilt and its awaiting installation.. the Bendix stuff was expensive to get rebuilt compared to my Dusters KH stuff. i did save the studs and hub.. i found some NOS rotors , they were not cheap, lol.... the original MC was rebuilt along with the original cap.... i contacted BW for an estimate for the distribution block,$80 bucks... but when i mentioned that i also wanted them to rebuild the Texas shaped valve he didnt know what i was talking about.
 
Picture would help, or you can look in the service manual. I think your talking about the distribution block. If there is a combination value installed like later 70s stuff, it doesn't belong there.
 
my 2 brake valves and the mounting tabs are pretty crusty... can i soak them in a mild rust remover before i hit them with 0000 steel wool... i dont want to harm the valves internals before sending them out to brake warehouse for a rebuild
 
dragon slayer, this is a one owner car thats been sitting in a barn since 78, the 2 valves look correct with all the proper clips and brackets, i have no reason to believe that the texas shaped valve isnt original to the car.. its a disc/ drum car....
 
Attached are pictures of differential Pressure valve(T) and Proportional Valve. I would leave them alone if BW said they would do the restoration. Muscle Car Research has a web site with tech documents on the repair/restoration. The valves are brass. Brackets metal, though prop vavle is usually a removeable bracket. As long as your not using something that can damage seals and o-ring your probably ok.

As far as original, do you have documentation it came as a disc car, vice add on kit. The Dealer add on was an item as most of these cars Did Not come with power disc. Disc did not become big until the 70 KH versions. So, it could have been a dealer add on in the early 70 if your valves are different? Or someone did change a component at some point. Back in those days rotor were not suppose to be cut, and MC could be replaced early in life. Later in the 80s and 90s Bendix stuff was really hard to come by especially pre internet.

1969-camaro-valve-prop-1.jpg mopar-3404607-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
....my build sheet supports that its a disc brake car, it was an option in 67. my only point was that i was surprised that BW didnt know what i was talking about.. the pictures of those 2 valves are real close to what i have,my small valve says 170-7... any idea what that means? big valve is too crusty to see if any numbers are on it
 
I wouldn't know what you were talking about stating a "texas shaped" valve either !! :canada:
 
dadsbee said:
I wouldn't know what you were talking about stating a "texas shaped" valve either !! :canada:
Click to expand...
If you rotate the first picture in DS post above it looks like the state of Texas.....

There is so many parts to brake systems I am not surprised they were unfamiliar........That does not mean they cannot repair it....
 
That is good. You stated Prop valve and then Texas Valve, so I thought you meant distribution block, but you may be confusing parts, which helped confuse BW.

The Valve that looks like texas is the proportioning valve for the rear drums. The other is basic distribution Tee with differential pressure valve for brake warning light. It is just below the master cylinder.

Date code day and year so 170th day of 67. So is this a Late 67 car?

Are the NOS Rotor you got 2 piece rotors? I would be interested in seeing pictures of them if you can.
 
Not to hijack your thread, but I have a 73 steel proportioning valve that I want to rebuild. What would y’all recommend for that? Replace it with a repopped brass one or rebuild the steel one? At this stage I have no idea what the internals of it look like. A 73 Charger is not a high dollar car of course, but I would like to preserve as much originality as possible.
 
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