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Hays flywheel vs stock issue ??

65wgn440

65wgn440

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I rebuilt trans over the winter and decided to install new Hays 11-430 steel flywheel before reinstalling trans. Now my clutch adjustment has changed dramatically. So much so that I will need a longer adjusting rod. At first I thought I had a fork to bearing positioning issue, but it APPEARS good. It is VERY difficult to get a visual on it with blowproof bell and header interference. Wondering if anyone else has encountered this before ? I would expect my adjustment going the other way, going from an almost 50 yr old flywheel that's been surfaced at least 3 times, to a new billet.
 
just guessing but sounds like the clutch fork/throwout bearing is out of position and you can't see it.
 
The flywheel is not the issue. Did you remember to install the pressure plate ?!?!?!?
 
I have spent a good amount of time with a LED pen light, fiber obtic inspection camera, assorted mirrors, and it looks like it is positioned correctly. The bearing moves forward and backward with fork, so fork is apparently clipped to bearing (which I verified with camera on lower tang). So say fork is behind springs on bearing (Hays also, but ran with old flywheel), that would actually move adjustment arm end of fork CLOSER to z-bar for initial adjustment. My adjusting rod barely reaches fork with pedal up and fork pulled forward. My geometry had always been iffy with this bell housing and stock '70 fork, but I have made it work OK. I have had issues with throw out bearing travel on later model vehicles, with hydraulic set-ups of course, after clutch job/flywheel surfacing before, so I just thought I'd ask if anyone experienced similar issue. Sure wish I would have mic'd both of them before I installed new one. Will see if shop next to mine has better camera than the Snap-On cheapie(??) I have, and triple check fork/bearing fit, before making longer activation/adjusting rod.
 
1) did you change the throwout bearing? There are two different lengths.
2) Is the z-bar installed correctly?

Instead of dicking around with rods, etc, just install a spacer block under the fork pivot bracket.
 
Stanton said:
1) did you change the throwout bearing? There are two different lengths.
2) Is the z-bar installed correctly?

Instead of dicking around with rods, etc, just install a spacer block under the fork pivot bracket.
Click to expand...

No and yes. No spacing this pivot. Lakewood blowproof.
 
I have a lakewood bell. The fork MUST have a spacer if you use the blocksaver behind the flywheel. A spacer the thickness of the plate works but if necessary you can use thicker to mover the fork forward.
 
...or an A body adjuster rod...

Is this new flywheel thinner than OE???
beerestoration2018 226.JPG
 
This is a pretty old bell, I bought it used in the mid '80's probably. I was under the impression the pivot bracket was welded to the bell, but it may be bolted to a welded plate. Would have to pull fork to be sure, and do not want to do that right now. I do run a block plate, but drove it for 2yrs before changing flywheel, with no issues. The ONLY change was new flywheel, indexed the bell housing, and rebuilt the trans.
 
Same here.. my Lakewood is pre '78. I'll have to look for a picture.. I think it has a spacer under the fork pivot.

EDIT.. you can see the spacer in this shot..
beerestowaynebodyshopvisits 205.JPG
 
Last edited:
The new flywheel is probably thicker than the old one which sets the pressure plate back further, sets the TO bearing further back, throws the outer end of the fork forward and etc, etc with the rods and linkage.
 
AR67GTX said:
The new flywheel is probably thicker than the old one which sets the pressure plate back further, sets the TO bearing further back, throws the outer end of the fork forward and etc, etc with the rods and linkage.
Click to expand...

I wish ! That is exactly the opposite of what I have going on.
 
And you remembered to put the clutch disc in, right?

I don't think the new flywheel could be that much thinner to cause this issue. Post a pic (side view) of your old one.
 
Well, re-verified fork/bearing engagement, and it is good. Called Holley/Hays tech line this morning, hoping to get some info and specs, specifically crank mating surface to clutch disc surface. They were zero help, of course. Called my speed shop guy to see if he had one in stock that I could measure. No go, but he did say he stocks adjustable fork pivots for GM Lakewood bells for similar issues. So I searched around and found some GM threads that mirrored my exact problem. They talked about clutch disc center hub contacting flywheel attaching bolts after replacing stock flywheel with Hays unit. One guy actually measured his as .160" thinner. I do remember the supplied crank bolts that came with mine as having VERY thin heads on them. All makes sense now. HOPEFULLY my Center force disc will clear ! Going to pull fork back out, hopefully be able to then unbolt pivot bracket from bell, add homemade spacer with longer bolts, and lengthen adjusting rod if need be. Would be nice to also find a fork that actually fits this bell better, stock '70 fork rides very high in bell opening, but according to my guy Lakewood does not offer any forks for Chrysler's.
 
If your fork IS attached on both clips and pivot correctly, you might try making a spacer for the pivot.
FWIW, a .310" standard under a B&B should have the finger heights at 1.700". So 2.010" from the flywheel face.
upload_2019-4-8_15-12-16.png
 
OE factory fork. I am certain of that as I had three to chose from while I had it out of the car.

You saw my picture correct? There is a spacer under the pivot bracket to match the block protector plate.
 
here's a shot of mine. The spacer is between the two black lines. Also stock '69 b-body fork.

IMG_1145.JPG
 
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